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BrettB

repair help

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BrettB
Having trouble with Allis 716H. When engaging the mower deck, there is no speed to the blades, they just barely move. Have all new belts on the tractor. Something is not engaging properly. Anyone with any suggestions of what to check would be appreciated.

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SmilinSam
Sounds like you need to take the cone clutch assembly apart and inspect it. Could be the lining is worn out or the tension spring behind the hub is broken. Better see if there is much play side to side in the bearing & hub. Sam

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Dutch
Could also be be the idler pulley under the deck belt cover. This idler is often neglected resulting in it being "froze" on the pivot shaft or the tension spring being weak, broke, or loose. It's also a good idea to check the center PTO ocassionally, as Sam suggested. The center PTO springs do get weak. I have new ones available at less then retail price.

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BigSix
Not that I'm familiar with this tractor, or cone clutches, but how about a stripped Woodruff key on any of the drive/driven pulleys involved? That would allow for a fast moving belt (if you had that?) but a pulley could be spinning on a shaft....

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BrettB
Thanks to all for your info. Deck belt is ok, as is the idler pully. It looked as though the clutch cone was not running at full speed, so I think Sam's evaluation is right on target. The problem is that I have never worked on this area of the tractor. How hard would this be for me to fix? My manual does not have any info on this. Can anyone give me any tips?? I run a small mowing service with two tractors (712H and 716H). I have two so if I suffer a breakdown, I can still mow. As luck (or lack there of) would have it, both are broken down at the same time. The 712 has a stuck valve being repaired. I tried both decks on the 716, with the proper belts. Both will not turn at the proper rpm. Any help appreciated.

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Dutch
The clutch is keyed to the BGB shaft, so it should turn at engine RPM. If it's not, you may have a sheared key (unlikely), a weak or broken spring, or glazed, oily, or worn lining. To take the clutch apart, remove the large nut that holds the clutch cover to the shaft (hold opposite end of shaft with a pipe wrench on the transmission pulley shoulder). After the cover is removed, there should be a snap ring holding the rest of the clutch to the shaft. You may have to compress the clutch with a clamp to remove the snap ring. Index each part as they're removed.

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BrettB
I replaced the clutch last week, but now I cannot get it to adjust so I can engage/disengage the mower deck. There is not enough adjustment on the engaging rod, so the new clutch is always engaged. It seems that the lining on the new clutch is so thick that the disengaging arm cannot pull it far enough away to disengage. I have had to mow with it this way.......I take the mower belt off to load it on and off the trailer, then shut it off, put the belt on, start the tractor (with the clutch engaged), mow, then remove the belt to load, etc, etc. This can't be good for the tractor, but I don't have a choice while the grass is growing. Any suggestions?? Thanks.

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SmilinSam
Try using a few washers as shims between the nut and the bracket to give you more travel on the rod. Originally there is supposed to be two washers with a tapered spring between them.( this is all on the engagement rod) Sam

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BrettB
Sam, the tapered spring was there but no washers. I tried washers when I first installed the new clutch, still not enough room to disengage. It almost seems like there is so much material on the inside of the new clutch that the rod does not have enough movement to disengage. I can't figure out how to get the whole assembly off to inspect it.

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BrettB
I bought a new clutch. I didn't know you could get them relined. (I know just enough to get myself in trouble!) I'm talking about the assembly the clutch bell is mounted on. I thought maybe something was broken within that, so I looked for ways to take it apart............can't find any. I don't know what this is called, but it is what the new clutch engages and disengages from when the lever is shifted to engage the deck.

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BrettB
I replaced part #13. After reassembly, I could not get the deck to disengage. This is a great diagram........I just can't figure out how to disassemble anything on there past what I have already done with part 13.

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djarvis949
About 2 years ago I replaced the clutch on my 712H and I bought the complete assembly as it was cheaper (about $200 or so as I recall) than to buy all of the parts separately, plus you are doing away with all of the wear in the pivots (@#6). Don If you goto the 'Simplicity' site and download tp-400-0236-00-sv-s.pdf you will get a 7016 parts manual that is close to the 716, the parts that I replaced ( I found the receipts) were 174862 plate assy, 17177 spring, 1650254 bearing, 1650906 pivot & 2 # 171371 bushings . Don

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BrettB
Thanks for all your help. I think replacing the whole assembly is going to be the best bet. This tractor has had a lot of use. I appriciate all the help provided by those on this site. I don't use the computer very much, but when I do I always visit here. It seems like a big happy family. Thanks again.

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