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simplejim

carb trouble

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simplejim
the model 19 briggs on my simplicity 700 is giving me fuel fits. the carb has had a kit put in it but it has not been right since. if i choke it by covering the end by hand[with the air cleaner asembley off] it pours gas out the bottem of the barrel but if i dont choke it then it dosent seem to get gas[the plug is dry] i think the ajustment screws are close to right anybody have any thoughts on what the problem might be? simplejim

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Ben_H
Take the fule line off and make sure your getting good fule line pressure. Have the cardb checked out for cracks and leaks. Maybe the jets are stressed. Make sure the float valve is adjusted correctly.

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simplejim
thanks for the reply.those are some of the first things i checked.the fuel is fresh and flows freely out the end of the line.i have ajusted te float to where i believe it is set pretty close.do you suppose the needle vavle could be cauing this? the carb body is solid and i dont think it has any cracks simplejim

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simplejim
i fixed my fuel problem got the carb all lined out,put fresh gas in{the gas in it was from last fall} still didnt help.it would start and die.got to checking for spark it had it at the plug wire and seemed to at the plug but after continued cranking for few seconds the nice blue spark gets weak so i'm assumeing it has trashed anouther plug .so i will go get one tomorrow and hope that cures it simplejim

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simplejim
it's funny you mention that. i put a new plug in it got it running and and it will not smoot out and run right so i checked the points and woundered about the condenser. the points and ondenser were new last summer and have little use still but i did notice oil on the inside of the cover and on the condenser.do you suppose the condenser could be bad already?gotta fix that oil leak also..... simplejim

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HubbardRA
Oil on the condenser will probably mean oil on the points, this is not good and could cause a misfire. Check the points for burning on the contacts. File them with a small file, or sand them with sandpaper till they are smooth. Clean off all the oil with a solvent. You can use gasoline, but be sure all is off and evaporated before trying to start it. Gap the points and start it. If it runs good for a while and then starts missing again, check for oil. This will tell you if the oil is the problem. If this is the problem, you may have to replace the shaft that trips the points, because there is too much clearance between it and the bore. Rod H.

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simplejim
one other question what is the easiest way to check the mag....i'm about ready to just put a coil [automotive] on it. but i would like to check it first. i have have thought for years electricity is done with smoke and mirrors....and i still believe it simplejim

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LarryC
Don't fight it replace the coil with a new eletronic style. This will eliminate the points and condenser and the problem with the oil on the points. If you are getting oil on the points this will cause the engine to lose fire. By installing the eletronic coil you will double the voltage and eliminate any tune ups needed. Go to a Briggs dealer and ask for part number 398811. Install the new coil, set the air gap and you are ready to go. LarryC

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HubbardRA
If you use an automotive coil you will also need to install a ballast resistor. Best way is to buy a Kohler coil. You can either use the condenser that you already have or put a Kohler condenser on the coil. This still will not solve the problem of the oil on the points. Rod H.

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simplejim
i did put a coil on it ....what a difference. it will rev again and seems to be running pretty good.i know i havent solved the oil problem but thats next. i know i said one more already but....one more i feel alittle dumb here but is this 6 volt or 12 volt? simplejim

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HubbardRA
Jim, The tractor is 12V. This is why you need a ballast resistor if you use a car coil. This drops the voltage to 6V to keep the current draw from frying your points and running your battery down. It is built into the Kohler coil. Rod H.

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simplejim
Rod thanks i knew i would have to add the resistor to keep from frying the points but your explanation gives me more insight.by the way as long as i'm aready here. i put the resistor between te battery and coil. should i have put it between the coil and points or the way i have it or does it matter? thanks again for all the help simplejim

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HubbardRA
It goes between the battery and coil. If it is hard to start, you can run a wire from the switched side of the starter soleniod to the plus side of the coil to bypass the ballast resister when cranking to make it start easier. This wire will only be energized when the starter is engaged. Many of the older solenoids had a separate small wire just for this purpose. If the solenoid has two large and two small terminals it is set up specially for the bypass. This is the way it was done on all cars with points. Bypassing the ballast does not appear to be necessary since the Kohler resister is internal to the coil, and thus cannot be bypassed. Rod H.

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