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paull

Homebrewed snowplow attachment?

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paull
I have a spare 48" snowplow from my gravely walk behind that I am thinking about retrofitting to my 416H. Should the frame I fabricate for it attach to the front of the tractor only (as does the snowblower) or should I extend the frame to mate up to some point around the middle of the tractor frame? Also, will I kill my tractor with this attachment? I plan on using the blade for dirt and snow with the tire chains of course. Any input?
Paul LaFiandra

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Guest
Other designs run support rails to the rear axles - might as well being you are going to fabricate anyway if you have the material but as Tim says - it is not necessary. Will you use 1/2" stock?

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StanS
Paul,

With that size I'm sure you won't have to overbuild. Visit a few places and see what tin foil they're getting away with these days. Always set your skids to match ground conditions with snow (obsticles). If there are no spring releases on ther plow, plow as slow as you can get away with. Attach your fabricated frame system very low on the plow. Watch the attitude (vertical angle) of the plow when in the lowered position. You should be able to plow with the hypro in the float position without the plow rising and floating atop the snow. Never slam a snow bank, but do learn to (at normal speed) raise the blade with perfect timing to push snow UP the bank ,clutch or dethrottle, and letting this maneuver stop the tractor smoothly. If there is no replaceable strip of sacrificial metal at the balde's bottom get one (make one) and spend the day drilling all the holes needed to bolt it on. You'll thank yourself the first time you have to replace it. If plowing a dirt road don't be surprised to hit an immoveable object at least once a year and do a head stand at the same time. Add at least one protective metal barrier for the benefit of you lower hydro hose connection.

Stan

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tej
Now Stans a man that talks like he has some REAL HAND experience plowing! But what tin they are getting away with to "sell" or what actually will "work" when you really want to use it? I know Simplicity prices are high for plows BUT they do work when you need them! It is very hard to damage them but like anything - it can be done. I am curious as to what the the other brands out there are using that are cheaper. I'll never forget one customer that GAVE me his plow for his Sears - he said he tried to use it once and and it just buckled up! They had some universal design that had way too many brackets and bolts to make up the hitch. A true example of "You get what you pay for". :)

BTW Paul - I think 3/8 will be OK if you cross brace or gusset where appropriate - your the engineer! Weight is a factor too. One of my "engineers" strenghtened up our 14' road trailer so the tounge would not get bent when you have to jack/slide it around in some tight areas. I don't think it will EVER bend but now it is VERY hard to even lift the tounge up and physically move it to hitch it up. We solved that by installing a wheel jack in the front. Over-building CAN have drawbacks too! :)

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Les
Paul, I made a undercarrige assembly for a wheel horse plow to fit my brothers 712S, using 1/2" stock. Snug fit (welding stresses) on the blower mounts. A total of a couple of pounds-worked great. I've seen AC's mounted this way. When I bought my 912H, the undercarrige wouldn't fit. I had to machine the 1/2" width. The one thing that's important is that the plow frame should be level to the ground when plowing, otherwise when the blade is set for right or left the bottom of the plow will not be parallel to the ground. The outside corners will pitch up or down. When you use the 3/8" stock, shim it evenly on both sides, (less problems if welded)to enshore interchangeability. The 4 shear pins will hold it fine. Good luck Brian

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