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Moldboard plow HELP!!!


Viva-la-B-110

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Viva-la-B-110

Alright guys, I’m on the verge of embarrassing myself in front of my wife, father, his girlfriend, and anyone else within seeing distance… I’m attempting to break up a winter garden using my B110 and moldboard plow. Original plow and hitch components. I’ve used moldboards on plenty of larger tractors before with no issues what so ever but I can’t get this one to plow a furrow at all. It either skids across the top of the ground (there’s plenty of slack in the lift chain) or plows a very shallow trench. I’ve tried adjusting the moldboard every which way. Flipped the hitch upside down. Taken the coulter off (in case some of the sod that got caught between it and moldboard was an issue) and it just won’t plow a furrow deep enough to drop my right wheels off in. Just shallow useless trenches. I have the manual for the plow but it’s not much help. Any and all advice would be greatly appreciated!

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Ronald Hribar

If it is a 12 inch plow you should be able to plow 6 inches deep

if you raise left side of tractor 6 inches

the plow should be set level with ground

i have never plowed with garden tractor

but with our Ford farm tractor

 I would use top arm to make it dig in better

but you do not have that option 

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Viva-la-B-110

I tried jacking up the land side of the tractor 6 inches and adjusting the plow level on the garage floor. Haven’t had the chance to re-test it now, but will try soon

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Viva-la-B-110
50 minutes ago, Viva-la-B-110 said:

I tried jacking up the land side of the tractor 6 inches and adjusting the plow level on the garage floor. Haven’t had the chance to re-test it now, but will try soon

I tested it on a small patch in our backyard. It seems to have made a difference. Only time will tell if it does so at the garden spot

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Depth of plow is adjusted by the turnbuckle on top rear of plow.  Shortening it tips the leading edge of plow share down.  Generally you need to set it deeper on your first pass as your right wheel is not in the furrow yet.  Then readjust it after the first pass to get a depth of 5-6 inches, it will probably go deeper, but will not be as level.

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Viva-la-B-110
28 minutes ago, acken said:

Depth of plow is adjusted by the turnbuckle on top rear of plow.  Shortening it tips the leading edge of plow share down.  Generally you need to set it deeper on your first pass as your right wheel is not in the furrow yet.  Then readjust it after the first pass to get a depth of 5-6 inches, it will probably go deeper, but will not be as level.

I’ll try that too. But after adjusting with the tractor jacked up it already seemed to do better

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These little guys are tricky.  I and a friend (both with experience using moldboards on the farm in younger times) spent a couple of hours one day getting one set up.  The top link is really the only adjustment.  the landslide can be adjusted but only affects how straight the bottom is with respect to the tractor.  Change the top link a LITTLE at a time.  What really is the magic is how sharp the share is both the bottom edge and especially the point.  Many of these old shares have a significantly worn point (up to 1 inch!).  New shares are (were?) available from Brinly.  Of course  none for the Simplicity plows.   Farmers used to weld up the share points on farm plows.

Edited by CarlH
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Viva-la-B-110
1 hour ago, CarlH said:

These little guys are tricky.  I and a friend (both with experience using moldboards on the farm in younger times) spent a couple of hours one day getting one set up.  The top link is really the only adjustment.  the landslide can be adjusted but only affects how straight the bottom is with respect to the tractor.  Change the top link a LITTLE at a time.  What really is the magic is how sharp the share is both the bottom edge and especially the point.  Many of these old shares have a significantly worn point (up to 1 inch!).  New shares are (were?) available from Brinly.  Of course  none for the Simplicity plows.   Farmers used to weld up the share points on farm plows.

I guess my question would be (and I realize this may be dumb, but I also know my luck), is that once I get this plow adjusted correctly, I am going to have to go through this every time I want to use it?

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Viva-la-B-110

That's good to know. The only other recommendation I can think of would be once the plow is now adjusted after having jacked up the land side of the tractor.... would it be advisable to tighten up the turn buckle for a deeper furrow or loosen it? 

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Viva-la-B-110
45 minutes ago, Bill725 said:

Go to the Brinly website and download the manual for the moldboard plow.

Did Brinly make the AC plows?

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Don’t think so but basic operation should be the same.  At one point i had set up and plowing instructions, maybe from user manual from simplicity?

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Viva-la-B-110
2 hours ago, Gary said:

As you know from farm plows, the shear point has much to do with the plows ability to dig.  You may need a new shear.

I have considered that. Thankfully I have an entire spare moldboard that is in superior shape to the one that's currently on the plow. I'm hoping it doesn't come to that. I'm betting the bolts are gonna be rusted and frozen with a capitol R and F

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Another item to keep in mind is the condition of the plow. The plow needs to be smooth with no rust. Paint isn’t a requirement, but the plow can’t have any rust. 

Rick

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