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Briggs oppossed engine in a 7119


Tarheel

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Late last winter a friend told me of a man he knew who was closing a small engine shop and selling off tools and equipment.  The place was only an hour round trip so I went and checked it out.  There I purchased a saw chain sharpener, An Airco AC stick welder (As a gift for my young cousin) other odds and ends and then I saw a Simplicity 7100 series. No deck but the body was in good shape. Had a rear lift on it as well as hydro lift. But when I raised the hood, I found an opposed twin B&S under the hood.

 The tractor had one new front tire on it and the price I paid for the tractor wasn't much more than the price of that tire. He sold me the tractor with I think it was 3 different air filter housings. All marked with different horse powers. (The one on it says 14 HP But doesn't fit as it should)  Once I got it home, it didn't take long to have it up and running. I never cared for the sound of them but can't argue with the way they hold up and with how strong they are. (Sound makes me think of an air cooled VW engine that is dead on one cylinder) The carb on it needs going through. I have not ran the numbers on the engine as of yet and I'm not sure I can trust the blower housing any more than the air filter housing. Does anyone know how to ID these engines ?

 The next thing I learned was the PO had cut the hydro shift arm and put an offset in it to run outside the guide and safety switch. The reason he did this became clear the first time I drove it. The double "D"  on the shift arm is so worn that you would have hit the limit of the guard by the time you started to move in either direction.  I have an Agco with the same wear but this is the first of the 7000 or 7100s I have seen like it. I think I have enough parts machines to come up with the replacement parts maybe.

 I have a few extra 48 inch decks and will try one on this tractor. If it runs it okay, it will likely see service on the more open and level part of the yard an my mother's place. Save wear on the GX255 and give me a chance to find and repair the hydro leak on the Sunstar. (This area is the reason I bought the Sunstar with hopes of finding a 60 inch deck some day) If the Briggs twin isn't up to the task, I have a 16 single Briggs that may find a home there. Mowing season will be here before you know it and I have a feeling long before I'm good and ready.

 I have a "Club regret" in the shop now. It has 1 flat front tire and one rear. I'll get slime in both, put the hood on it and get it out of the way. Then the 7119 will get pulled in and the carb gone through and the link on the shifter (and maybe the shift arm as well) will get replaced. If all goes well I might put a deck under it.

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I knew a guy many years ago that had an opposed Briggs twin 18 IC repower. What I can’t remember is if he had a riser plate under it. I thought I remember the crank height being about an inch lower than the Kohler KT & Magnums. But maybe I thought wrong.

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2 hours ago, ShaunE said:

I knew a guy many years ago that had an opposed Briggs twin 18 IC repower. What I can’t remember is if he had a riser plate under it. I thought I remember the crank height being about an inch lower than the Kohler KT & Magnums. But maybe I thought wrong.

 Thanks for the heads up. I'll need to look into that to make sure.

I did get a little work done. The Cub is moved but when I pulled the 7119 around it ran out of fuel. There was only about a pint in the can so I made a trip to the store. On the way back I started to shiver. (Store is only a mile) Turns out 30 degrees and a 10 to 15 MPH wind is a bit more than I can handle LOL.  Hats off to you guys up north who spend time out in the real cold. You are more tough than I am.

 

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 Got a little time in on the opposed twin this evening. Pulled it 9into the shop and removed the fuel shut off solenoid. got all the old fuel out and used a tiny brush to clean the jet. Got it back together and after a bit of adjustment on the non fixed jet, it purrs.  The tractor needs a light switch and an oil change. Need to check the BGB oil level and the cone clutch etc before putting a mowing deck under it. Still haven't run the engine numbers because I haven't seen them yet. I'll need to get a stronger light to do so.

 Fired up the JD GT235 today and it didn't want to back up. Checked and oil in the hydro reservoir was low so I made a trip to town where Mobile 1 full synthetic 5w50 was on sale at almost $8.00 a quart. Came back and filled the reservoir only to look up and see part of it pouring back out. The hose between the Res and the hydro seems to have a pretty bad leak. Bad news was it still don't want to move in reverse and is pretty jerky in forward. I have a parts machine but have no idea if the hydro is any good. Another job that will have to wait till the Ford is gone.

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1 hour ago, Ronald Hribar said:

What Ford?

There is a 1962 Galaxie 500 body in my garage sitting on barrels in the back. It belongs to my uncle and after many years he and his grandson are going to remove and restore it. The garage is about 18 feet wide and 40ish feet deep and I have been packing parts, pieces and tools around the body for 30 some years.

 So a path had to be made to be able to get the Ford out and it is pretty much done. But weather and other factors keep the move from happening.  I won't take on a job that will leave a tractor etc disabled and blocking access.

 Sorry.

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 Yesterday afternoon (Tuesday) I pulled the shift arm from another 7100 and set about setting the opposed Briggs unit to rights. I backed the nut off and with a little work was able to pull the shifter arm out of the nylon bushings. Being this is a hydro lift, there was little room to remove the cotter pin from the link so I lifted the seat deck and found the spring dampener to be badly warped. I quit about then. 25 degrees and the wind blowing.

 Wednesday evening I pulled the box from around the springs and got it pretty straight Then got everything back together save the bolt and spacer at the forward/reverse cam. I had knocked the bolt and spacer off at some point and had to move the tractor to find it.  35 degrees in the shop but fingers had gotten numb past doing much.

 Don't know if I found the cause of the lost motion in the shifter or not. Hope to find out tomorrow.

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 The lost motion is still there. Not that this was a total waste, at least it is back to factory. The shift arm and the link that connects to it are NLA so I can either hire a machine shop to make parts or weld it.

 The idea of welding it may not be all that bad. It should only take a short bead and if I can keep it cool enough not to melt the nylon bushings it should be good to go.

As it is, I have it adjusted so I have full range in forward and maybe half for reverse. This means I have to move half way through reverse to stop. Not ideal but there is the foot brake.

 Checked on prices for the fuel gauge/caps.  I need a number of them. $32 each. Ordered 5 caps for the old B&S 3-5 HP engines ( Seem to recall they fit) for $14 and change. It will keep the water out.

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 Bill,  part 1665257SM 1 LEVER ASSY (36 in exploded view)., Control and the link that is connected to it (32 in exploded view) 1650358SM 1 LINK.

https://www.partstree.com/models/1693407-simplicity-sovereign-garden-tractor-18hp/hydrostatic-control-group-12/

If I raise the seat deck and move the hand shifter, The hand shifter will move towards reverse (as I have it adjusted now) until it almost hits the rear stop before the tractor will move. You can watch the shifter rod back at the cam and for a least half the travel of the shift handle, nothing moves.

 I have an Agco From the last year these BGB tractors were made that does the same. We (Family) purchased it new and it grew into this situation over the years.

When I had these parts in my hand, before installing them in the 7119, They didn't have enough slop to allow for the free movement while in the tractor. But I did notice that if the link was placed on the shifter shaft backwards, it had to be pulled on with the nut. So there is wear.

 I have the two parts I removed from the 7119 and hope to get some shop time (10 am and 20 degrees) to test a number of things like mounting the link in the vice and putting the arm in it then seeing how much lost motion is there. In the exploded view you can see the shift lever (36) has the shaft welded on it that goes through a pair of nylon bushings (35) then a pair of cupped spring washers (34) and a spacer.

 If I tighten the nut holding the link to the shaft, the shift arm binds either in the bushings or the quadrant (37) or both before the nut bottoms.  Likely this is how it should be but I haven't seen the spacer and haven't yet made up my mind what its purpose is exactly. From the look of things, the spacer should press on the flange of the inside bushing as you tighten the nut and compress the cupped washers. I would tend to think that any wear in the bushing or bearing flange would cause more load on the cupped washers (or if the bushing is missing) But I'm not sure. Neither the spacer nor the cupped washers came off when I changed the parts so pulling the link off and seeing is a good place to start.

 The JD  GT 235 doesn't like cold weather. I started it and left it running with the clutch out in front of the space heater for 10 or 15 minutes and the hydro pulled smoothly. Reverse is still slow and weak. Still unsure of any damage. The body has to be removed (fenders and floor pan etc) to make any repairs.

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Give me a shout, Terry, I'm pretty sure I have everything you need. 414-807-7182

 

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Still trying to get to the post office, Terry.  Should be before the end of the week.

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 I got in a little time in the shop tonight. Pulled the 7119 back inside and raised it as far as I could. (till the hitch hit the ground)  I then removed all the parts in this line save the bushings. IE shifter, spacer and cupped washers. Getting the spacer and cupped washers off took some effort as they were rusted fast. I got those cleaned up enough to slip fit as they should and I hope this will take care of the binding issue.

 For all the years I've owned and worked on Simplicity tractors, this was a first. Getting it apart allowed me to at long last understand a bit about how it works. Now I plan to use the parts I'm getting from Brett for the Agco 918H with the same problem and see if I can repair what I have on this machine.

 As I see it, the options are a bit limited. I can pay someone to broach double "D" holes in a few pieces of plate. I could then cut the link and weld in the piece with the new double "D" . But that doesn't allow for wear on the male part. 

 Option 2 would be to peen the he link until I have a sweat fit with the male. This is likely what I'll try first as it is cheap and easy. After the peening is done I can also maybe try to heat treat and temper but I have little hope there is enough carbon in the steel link for it to harden.

 If any of you have any ideas please share.  Thanks.

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 Got the link peened last night/this morning and it seems to have worked. Hope to try it out today if the rain allows. Haven't tried to heat treat and temper the link yet but from the ease that it peened, I'm pretty sure it is mild steel.

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 Well, this chapter is closed. I have no idea how long the fix will last but for now it works as it should. I had planned to get the Sunstar in the shop next to find the hydro leak, but I think I'll go ahead and put a 48 inch deck under his one and see how the Briggs handles it.

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