Homelite t-16H electric actuator rebuild kit???

[Gilmer]

Has anyone rebuilt their actuator or know of a direct replacement? Mine is damaged and I need to do something, so I can use the lift

[PhanDad]

I don't remember any posts about parts availability for electric lifts.  This is the only post I remember about trying to repair one:

 https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/67243-electric-lift-won’t-retract/

 

 

[GregB]

Timely post, was planning to add my electric lift to the 716-6spd.

 

Found this posting:

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/55581-simplicity-electric-lift-service-parts/?tab=comments#comment-446771

 

Went on to one of the links about the total package price noted from 2016 and saw this:

 

Edited March 4, 2024 by GregB

[Gilmer]

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to try to fix mine first and then go from there. 

[Austin]

2 hours ago, Gilmer said:

Thanks for the replies. I'm going to try to fix mine first and then go from there. 

Pictures might also be of help so we can see what's wrong with yours. Does it not actuate?

[Gilmer]

I finally got the actuator moving freely again. It does appear that some sort of spring washer has broken into pieces, not sure of its purpose. Possibly to help it not lock up when bottoming out or vice-versa. Nonetheless, I don't think it will physically be able to bottom out or over stroke based on the rock shaft limits

[AC710]

3 hours ago, Gilmer said:

Nonetheless, I don't think it will physically be able to bottom out or over stroke based on the rock shaft limits

I can't tell from your description which spring might be broken, but if it is the one that operates the ball detent torque limiter clutch, it could cause one of two serious problems (see the post referenced by PhanDad above for the clutch I'm talking about)

1. - The clutch will disengage too easily and you will have little or no lifting power.

2. - the clutch will NOT disengage and will not function to stop piston travel either at end of travel or if the lift is overloaded.

If the actuator piston comes up against the -rock shaft limits-, that would be an overload and the clutch is supposed to trip (there is an audible "snap, snap, snap" of the balls in the detents) and allow the motor and gears to continue turning without damage. If the clutch doesn't trip, you risk overloading the motor or breaking the gear train.

The actuator referenced by GregB above has an overload clutch. I've never been able to dope out a replacement unit for these tractors, so thanks for that! (A little hard to justify the price for a $500 antique tractor, though )

Less expensive actuators use electric switches at end of travel, but those likely would not be very good in this application.

[Gilmer]

Yeah I'm not sure. There were pieces of what appeared to be one of those spring washers in the bottom of the cylinder but I have no clue where it would go, I have a theory because there is one on the bottom of the brake assembly but I don't know for sure.  I've extended and retracted the actuator as far as it will go and it works properly, I just haven't had a load on it yet

[AC710]

18 minutes ago, Gilmer said:

I've extended and retracted the actuator as far as it will go and it works properly,

If you try to extend it beyond the end-of-travel you should be able to hear the snapping sound of the clutch. It will just sit there and pop repeatedly. That would indicate it is working.

I don't recall how the clutch is assembled, never tried to take one apart for fear I would not be able to get it back together.