Gilmer Posted March 5, 2024 Posted March 5, 2024 Hey guys, sorry for so many different topics with issues. As I said before I'm new to these tractors and trying to make mine better than when I bought it. So someone has (at some point) cut the black wire of the condenser and wire nutted it, I'm curious as to why you'd do that and what should I do to remedy this? Thanks -I'm trying to upload images (jpg) of it, but it keeps giving me an unable to upload message (-200) 1 Quote
Austin Posted March 5, 2024 Posted March 5, 2024 @David Barkey was having the same issues with images uploading. Go into "All Activity" scroll down till you find the "B112 Barn Find" thread. There was a remedy to your problem, but without going back to find the post I don't quite remember what it is. Though I think it is that you have to compress the photos to a smaller size. Back on topic however, I believe your machine was likely converted to a point-less ignition system. I believe that is known as a Nova II ignition set up. 2 Quote
Tarheel Posted March 5, 2024 Posted March 5, 2024 The job of the condenser is keeping the electricity from arcing across the points. If the engine runs as it should, then I'd think it is wired correctly, if not quite like the factory did it. As for reasons for doing such ? I'd guess there are as many as there are weekend mechanics. But if you have enough wire, it should be a simple matter to put it back to factory. Quote
Gilmer Posted March 6, 2024 Author Posted March 6, 2024 Thanks Austin, I'm able to post pics now. Quote
Tarheel Posted March 6, 2024 Posted March 6, 2024 From the pics, looks like the condenser was bypassed. When a condenser goes bad, it can shut down the ignition. Could be that is what happened and why it was taken out of the loop. But because it isn't there to do it's job, the engine will not run correctly. A new set of points and condenser or, as Austin said above, a Nova II or the like ignition module might the best route for you. I like the modules myself. Nothing to adjust, they don't quit if they get wet and from the first one I ever installed, I can't recall ever having to replaced one that failed. Others may have a different view. 3 Quote
PhanDad Posted March 6, 2024 Posted March 6, 2024 8 hours ago, Tarheel said: a Nova II or the like ignition module might the best route for you. I like the modules myself. Here's a pic of mine mounted on my T-12: 8 hours ago, Tarheel said: I can't recall ever having to replaced one that failed. Others may have a different view. I believe I had an issue with the module pictured above. See this post: https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/67575-megafire-ignition-issue/ 2 Quote
Gilmer Posted March 7, 2024 Author Posted March 7, 2024 (edited) Thanks for the help and advice. Other than the one issue with that one, does anyone have recommendations on whether to get a Nova II or the Mega Fire II? The prices go from $14-$49 THANKS! Edited March 7, 2024 by Gilmer 1 Quote
Austin Posted March 7, 2024 Posted March 7, 2024 46 minutes ago, Gilmer said: Thanks for the help and advice. Other than the one issue with that one, does anyone have recommendations on whether to get a Nova II or the Mega Fire II? The prices go from $14-$49 THANKS! I’ve heard lots of people have good luck with both. @Reed Brandenburg I believe has converted many machines to Nova II’s with good success, but he is more active on FB so you’d have to contact him there for opinion. Though personally I’ve owned many different machines and I’ve never had points fail. So keep it original or upgrade, either way it should work with effectively if done right. 1 Quote
gwiseman Posted March 8, 2024 Posted March 8, 2024 On 3/6/2024 at 7:50 PM, Gilmer said: Thanks for the help and advice. Other than the one issue with that one, does anyone have recommendations on whether to get a Nova II or the Mega Fire II? The prices go from $14-$49 THANKS! I have a pointless Bumblebee10 with Nova II. Looks a lot like @PhanDad setup above but I stuffed mine inside the points cover. Mine works well but has its quirks: B10 has a push button starter that only fires after releasing the button. In other words I turn the key, whirl the engine with button pushed, then release the button before the engine will fire. Don't know why it works this way but it does. Here is a thread where I discussed: External coil on a 23D - Talking Tractors - Simple trACtors @Austin you might be interested too. 1 Quote
PhanDad Posted March 9, 2024 Posted March 9, 2024 8 hours ago, gwiseman said: but I stuffed mine inside the points cover. No heat issue in the summer? 9 hours ago, gwiseman said: B10 has a push button starter that only fires after releasing the button. And if I ever get around to getting my push button "HB-110" running and I put a "Nova II" on it, I wonder if I'll have the same issue? Based on the wiring, there shouldn't be an issue - but... Quote
acken Posted March 9, 2024 Posted March 9, 2024 Gene, I wouldn't admit to owning a B10 and calling it pointless! 2 Quote
gwiseman Posted March 9, 2024 Posted March 9, 2024 12 hours ago, PhanDad said: No heat issue in the summer? And if I ever get around to getting my push button "HB-110" running and I put a "Nova II" on it, I wonder if I'll have the same issue? Based on the wiring, there shouldn't be an issue - but... Bill, I've mowed with this tractor a lot with no heat issues. If I remember correctly, the starter key has one wire in this tractor. Key switch doesn't ground well either as I need to jiggle the key sometimes to get ground to kill. Not sure if I did something wrong on installation but it works. Quote
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