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MarcS

confusion

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MarcS
I'm having a problem getting a tractor to run. I've been working on it for too long and it is time to get it done so any advice would be great. TRACTOR # 7014 Baron ID #1690337 shuttle shift ENGINE Mod #326437 it's an old long stroke Briggs with external points, (looks like a Kohler at a glance) When I received the tractor I had spark and it ran fine but the charging wires were broke just past the diodes. Easy fix. Then I discovered that all wires were broken or worn after many years of corrosion. I cut the diode off (not knowing it was a diode, it looked like heat shrink tubing and tape) and hard wired the alternator wires thus bypassing the white plug. After rewiring the entire tractor, replacing the ign. switch and soleniod, I tried to start the motor, the coil became fried, it is believed because the diode was removed. Well, no big deal so I thought. I put a new diode harness in it and purchased a new coil (Briggs # 298968) and a module to retrofit to elec. ign. (Briggs #394970) The coil and module were wired and installed so that the spark plug wire pointed to the right and the module on the left when facing the flywheel. It had good blue spark. The motor was installed, everything hooked up and it still had good spark but it did not start when cranked. I squirted a little gas in the carb and still did not fire. All the wires were checked with an authentic Simplicity wiring diagram and are still believed to be routed properly. Now, all of a sudden there is no spark at all. I took the motor out and checked the coil and module visually and there is no change. No spark after buying a Napa elec. coil (supposed to have crossed right over using the engine mod. #). What is the problem? Is the alternator fried (have continuity)? I checked the fly wheel key for timing reasons Is this engine able to have electronic ignition (the local Briggs dealer doesn't know)? Is the coil mounted properly? Thanks in advance for any help. Marc

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Dutch
Sounds like you've got too many variables going on. Forget about the alternator for the time being, it is only required to recharge the battery. The engine will run without the alternator connected. Disconnect the alternator wires, and tape the ends. The engine will run as originally designed. If you want to eliminate the points and convert to electronic ignition, that can be done. Another route is converting to external coil. Check this out. http://www.simpletractors.com/do_it/magneto_to_coil.htm Get the engine running first, then tackle the alternator repairs.

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PatRarick
Yes, this engine can use electronic ignition, but you may have to have the flywheel polarized. Do you have the correct ignition switch? With this engine, you need a switch that will ground the magneto to kill the engine. You could have the wrong switch, and be feeding power to the magneto, grounding the alternator, etc. These magnetos will not take power. They will burn out almost immediately. Some will have signs of being burned out, some will not. Verify that you have the right switch, then follow as Dutch suggests. Pat

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roma3112
YESS PLEASE DO BE CAREFUL NOT TO BACKFEED CURRENT THROUGH SOME OF THESE COILS. I HAD THE MISFORTUNE OF RE-WIREING MY SWITCH ABD BACKFEEDING 12VDC THRU THE COIL OM MY 3112. END RESULT OF MY 1/2 HOUR IGNITION AWITCH CHANGE>>> 4-5 HOUR ENGINE R & R.

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