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1972 Landlord transmission trouble

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dlcentral
You first have to make sure that the trans belt stops turning when you step down on the clutch. This usually involves adjusting the belt guard(s), adjusting the clutch rod, or replacing the belt. To check this: lift up the seat, put the trans in neutral, start the engine and step down on the clutch - the belt should come to a stop - grinding the gears indicates that it is not. If you have a shuttle shift the procedure needs to be followed step by step according to the manual. If the belt is stopping you probably have an internal problem. Let us know.

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tej
Tony, Also the brake can be adjusted to tight and keep the clutch from fully releasing. Disconnect the brake when adjusting the clutch and then adjust the brake so it engages only when the clutch petal is fully depressed. I had problems with the gears grinding when I replaced the drive belt on my B12. The old belt was looser from age and let the transaxle pulley stop. The new belt keep it turning and no amount of adjusting the belt guards or clutch would stop it. I disconnected the brake and the clutch worked perfect. I then readjusted the brake and they both work now. Tim

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Guest
I recently purchased a 1972 Simplicity Landlord with a manual transmission from my father (he bought it new in May, 1972). Everything seems to run fine except twice so far, when trying to shift gears, the transmission gets stuck into one gear and won't shift into neutral or any other gear. The first time I pulled the transmission and took it into a local dealer to have them look at it. They stated that they didn't see anything wrong and that whatever it was probably fell back into place. The transmission also grinds when shifting from one gear to another (related?).

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated as I am not very familiar with this tractor or transmissions.

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dlcentral
Please remind me not to take my trac. to THAT dealer,The problem is probably the shifter key is warped not allowing it to go into gear or hanging up between gears,etc.You really can't tell it's bad by looking at it.A new key should fix your prob. if the"dealer"found nothing wrong!,that's what I recommend you check.Unfortunately the trans has to come apart again. I sell rebuilt trans. for these tracs.but I'm gonna need your as a "core". dlc

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Al
I agree with all of the above responses. This is where to start. Next if you have trouble hanging in gear, the problem may come from pulling back on the shift lever when shifting out of gear. In the transmisssion case are 2 roll pins that keep the little shift finger centered between 1 & 3 and 2 & R. I have worked on a number of these transmissions with this problem. If you take the lever straight across to neutral and then pull it back it will almost never hang up. What is happening is like the old column shifts on cars used to do. Typically as you are coming out of 1 or 3 if you are pulling back on the lever, the finger will slip out of the shift fork before it detents in neutral and the fork will return to the gear you were just leaving. This happens when the shift fork is worn where the finger pushes it and the roll pins that guide the fingers between the forks are worn. The one fork has slipped back in gear and the finger is in the other fork that can't move without having the tractor locked in two gears. We make a tool by heating and bending an old screwdriver and go through the pipe plug hole behind the drive pulley and pull or push the offending fork [usually front] back to neutral. If you split the case and pull up the large roll pins to min spec. or a little less this will normally fix the problem. Another thing to check is the detent spring strength, you can feel this by how well the unit wants to stay "in gear". How close the roll pins are together inside the transmission is very critical. If any one is going to attack this I'll dig up the specs. Most people that come in with this problem we just go in and hook the fork, without even unloading the tractor and show them how to avoid tempting a beligerant transmission into repeating its tricks, They usually get by without having to open up the case. My 2 cents worth and its free, {maybe there is a reason} Good luck, Al

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Guest
Good point on the brake Tim and good point on the roll pins Al - I was told to custom adjust the roll pin clearance by trial and error which can mean taking the cover on and off a lot of times until the fork ball "just" fits between the roll pins without any sideplay - well maybe .001. It is a lot of trouble but does solve that problem. Do you sell a lot of those "special" screwdrivers or do you just rent them out? You know that could be one reason a "speed shifter" might want to trade-in on a new hydro! :)

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Al,

How can I get my hands on a tool like that? I would like to fix this problem without having to tear apart the tractor to do it (if at all possible).

Good point by Jeff too... I am looking for this tractor to get me through preparing my yard for seed (I just built a new house) then possibly trade it in for a new hydro model (although I like the thought of having this classic around, especially since it prepared my dad's yard 17 years ago!).

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