Removal/Replacement of Starter Generator Belt - Landlord 101 (990351)

[Landlord101]

Hello all,

I've got a 1966 Landlord 101 that I keep running and mow the yard with every week or so.  Great tractor.

My question is how do you remove the starter generator belt in order to replace it?

My belt is still good but stretched out to the end of the adjustment arm, and I'd like to replace it before it fails.  There is no mention of belt R/R in the Simplicity repair manual.  Can the driveshaft be removed or does the engine have to be removed?  Seems like you have to take half the tractor off to get at it either way...

 

[Austin]

It’s actually quite easy. Technically you don’t have to pull the engine but it makes it incredibly easier. The only piece(s) you have to remove is the grill and the drivers side side-panel (if it has one). After those are removed unbolt the engine, unbolt the driveshaft from the engine, and then remove the engine. After that the rest is self explanatory. However, while the engine is out I recommend removing the blower shroud and cleaning the cooling fins.

Edited June 23, 2024 by Austin

[GregB]

Do not think you really need to pull engine.  Unbolt driveshaft coupler. Then unbolt engine and wiggle forward. , and replace belt.  Re-bolt engine.

But to Austins point, you are close enough at that point to pulling the shroud and cleaning fins, oil et.

Edited June 23, 2024 by GregB

[Landlord101]

Well then, that's what I'll be doing today!  Thanks guys!

[PhanDad]

I remove 4 bolts (maybe only 2 as @Chris727 states below - I haven't done it in awhile) at driveshaft/engine and remove fiber disk.  If enough spacers are present (make note of them so you can put them back together in same location.   There might be sufficient room to remove belt.

If not, loosen the set screw on the yoke at the BGB end and slide driveshaft to the rear to obtain clearance.  

Edit - number of bolts to remove.  

 

[Landlord101]

Appreciate that and will have a look at what my options are.

[Chris727]

I don’t do anything with the engine or engine bolts. I always just remove the side panels and the two bolts securing the driveshaft to the engine. After loosening the bolts I use a magnet to catch the spacers as I slide out the bolt. As Bill points out, loosening the yoke on the bevel gear box will allow the driveshaft to float somewhat. There is a hole in the underside of the frame to access the set screw on the yoke but many times the yoke will be frozen in place so I don’t bother with it as I have sufficient room to get the belt installed. 

[GregB]

Wow a lot of action on this one post!

Heat must be keeping people inside, like me 😀

 

[Landlord101]

Well, that's all well and good if you don't have the hydro-lift.  But you can't get to the back end of the driveshaft without removing the drive cylinder mount.  Plus you've got to take off the pump belt before the generator belt.  Plus there was about 2" of topsoil, acorns, rat droppings and oil packed into the bottom of the frame, so I opted to remove the engine.  Which wasn't so bad.

[Landlord101]

The hydraulic pump belt is a little tired.

[Landlord101]

And the generator belt is less than 3/8" wide.

[Austin]

I’d say pulling the engine was the right way to go then. Last I checked both belts were readily available from both online and my local dealer. So after a quick order and then some reassembly you’re good to go!

[Landlord101]

One further question - and I'll start another topic if warranted.

The bevel gear input shaft is pretty sloppy.  Toast or worth fixing?  This thing only gets about 1/2 hour at most whenever the (small) lawn needs cutting.  I figure it's lasted this long, but if it's fairly straightforward to clean out the bevel gear and put in a new bearing(s) and seal(s)...

[Bill725]

Most likely the input shaft is worn at the front needle bearing causing shaft movement. When the shaft movement gets bad enough, it will take out the bevel gears. The Landlord 101 has the older small BGB and several of the parts are NLA. The input shaft, P/N 157426, being one of them. There are (2) NOS input shafts on eBay.

Also, the special RH seal, P/N 154278 is NLA. We have a fix for that. If you decide to rebuild the BGB come back and let us know for help.

Edited June 24, 2024 by Bill725

[Landlord101]

OK thanks @Bill725.  I've got a 157426 shaft on order.  Will start a new topic on the BGB when the time comes.

[Landlord101]

Well, I did end up rebuilding the BGB.  It sure needed it.  I also "upgraded" the drive shaft couplings to the flex disc style - had the original (failed) rubber sandwich type, which someone had added spacers to so they held loosely together.  Removed a HUGE mouse condo from inside the engine cowling, and put in a new coil as my old ignition cable was not in great shape.  That plus removing tons of dirt/grease from everything and now that it's reassembled, back to mowing!

Thanks for everyone's help and thank goodness for eBay!

[Chris727]

Good work!