wiring diagram for a 7016.

[Tarheel]

 If anyone has a copy of a wiring diagram for a 7016 with a B&S engine could you share it please ? I don't seem to have a lead from the start switch to the solenoid Nor do I have a kill wire. ( I can't read the markings on the switch)

 The 16 is running great as long as it is at an idle. Throttle it up and it dies. I have new points and condenser and I'll try that before looking at the new carb. The carb seems to be doing as it should anyway.

 As always, Thanks everyone.

[Tarheel]

Forgot to follow.

[SmilinSam]

I'm thinking that "Murphy" guy has taken up permanent residence at your place with as much trouble as you seem to have lately.....  Better at your place than mine  LOL

 

I have had new Chinese replacement "Briggs" carbs that would do you describe. Never been able to fix those to work myself. Just had the seller send me another till I got one that worked. So far for me the ratio has been 1 out of 3 is no good.

[PhanDad]

2 hours ago, Tarheel said:

If anyone has a copy of a wiring diagram for a 7016 with a B&S engine could you share it please

My 7016H that has minimum DC charging capability and AC power to the headlights:

 

Wiring harness diagram from parts manual:

 

Pics of connections to the Briggs:

 

Note the PO moved the white light power supply from the port circled in red to the battery connection by cutting off the connector that plugged in port and adding a ring connector (yellow insulated).  Not the smartest move IMO, since if the lighting circuit grounds, there's no circuit breaker or fuse to trip or blow (I removed that PO change).  

 

[Tarheel]

3 hours ago, SmilinSam said:

I'm thinking that "Murphy" guy has taken up permanent residence at your place with as much trouble as you seem to have lately.....  Better at your place than mine  LOL

 

I have had new Chinese replacement "Briggs" carbs that would do you describe. Never been able to fix those to work myself. Just had the seller send me another till I got one that worked. So far for me the ratio has been 1 out of 3 is no good.

I agree Sam. Maybe while he is picking on me he will leave the rest of you alone for a while. This last carb is a Hipa. As a rule I have had better success with that brand and I noticed that Amazon had them flagged as having few returns. And only after installing the electronic ignition module did I recall that way back when (80s) those modules had trouble running anything past 10 or 11 horsepower. I have no idea if that is still an issue with them.

 Anyway,  I purchased the 17 GTH-L and the 7016 cheap and the 7016 sight unseen (Other than pics on Marketplace) That they run at all is a bonus IMO. BTW, your average on good to bad carbs is better than mine LOL. Thanks as always Sam for your input.

PhanDad, Thanks for the help sir. You've saved me a good bit of work

 I really can't thank all of you enough.

[Bill725]

14 minutes ago, Tarheel said:

And only after installing the electronic ignition module did I recall that way back when (80s) those modules had trouble running anything past 10 or 11 horsepower.

 

[Tarheel]

 Atom ignition modules came out in 1979 and in the early 80s, when I was working on small engines, We couldn't get them to run a B&S cast iron engine over a given horse power (I may be wrong in the exact HP)

 I just called my old boss from back then and he recalls it the same way on the early models but said he thought they worked out the bugs later on.

Maybe someone will remember those old ones and chime in.

[SmilinSam]

12 hours ago, Tarheel said:

 Atom ignition modules came out in 1979 and in the early 80s, when I was working on small engines, We couldn't get them to run a B&S cast iron engine over a given horse power (I may be wrong in the exact HP)

 I just called my old boss from back then and he recalls it the same way on the early models but said he thought they worked out the bugs later on.

Maybe someone will remember those old ones and chime in.

Same sort of experience here. I bought some nos early ones at one time. Seemed to work on 10hp CI briggs. Couldnt get them to work right on 16hp's though. Never had a problem on the aluminum blocks.

[PhanDad]

I’ve had an ignition module on the Hommie 12HP Briggs.  Worked fine for years until last year (?).  Swapped in a “new” one I had on the shelf and all is still good.  
There’s a post about the problem (not total failure). I attribute the problem to heat/age - like the safety modules seem to experience. 
 

[Tarheel]

 Thanks guys.

 Got the start lead wired on the solenoid and the grounding lead to the magneto. Still no start. Checked the neutral sending switch and it was good. Checked the PTO and found the problem.

The PTO lever is about to come apart No idea yet what is going on there but when I put it in the off position and pulled out on it the starter would engage.

[Tarheel]

 It seems that the shoulder on the PTO lever has been broken at some point and allows it to pass through the frame. That means I have 2 welding jobs this evening I guess. THe GX255 has ball joints made into the tie rod and the arm popped off the right hand side the other day. I picked up a couple of 3/8s ball joints only to find that my bolt supplier only had 3/8s fine thread bolts in allen head and those to long. LOL Oh well. I may replace only the broken side.

 Tried to download the parts manual for the 7016 this evening and the Simplicity page kept telling me there was no 1690427. (Wanted to see the set up for the PTO lever before working on it)

I loaded the number for PhanDad's 7016 and it kept telling me "only alphanumeric" characters could be used. But at last it gave me that manual. I just now stopped and tried again and it gave me the correct manual. 1690427.

[SmilinSam]

11 hours ago, Tarheel said:

 It seems that the shoulder on the PTO lever has been broken at some point and allows it to pass through the frame. 

I  remember I have seen that once before...now that you mention it

[Tarheel]

 I spot welded a washer to the outside of the PTO lever last night. It leaves a bit of slack but I think it will work until I pull another and replace it.

I set the idle a bit higher on the engine and it really doesn't like it. Where before it would start in just a turn or two, Now it backfires and carries on until at last it starts and then it dies in 45 seconds or a minute. (I didn't put much fuel in it knowing it all had to come back apart so that could be part of the problem).

 I think I may pull the carb off the other 16 and give it a try. If it runs then I'll have to make yet another return. (I'll check Walmart for replacements because I can return to the service desk and not worry with printing labels etc)

 

[Tarheel]

 Needed to move this tractor this evening to get the Sunstar in the shop. It spun and spun and never hit a time. Pulled the spark plug wire loose and it started while there was a gap for the spark to jump. It may be that a resistor plug would fix it ? Ideas ? I do have new points I can replace the module with if needed.

 I have been dragging my feet a bit on this one. Lots of time and money invested already and a good bit to go. Though I know it will be worth it in the long run.

[Tarheel]

 Pulled the 7016 in the shop this evening. Installed new points and couldn't get any fire. Turns out that if I adjust the points to .020 , They don't close.  Worn plunger maybe ? Any ideas ? Thanks.

[Tarheel]

 I got the points worked out and the engine runs as it should now. I still have no idea why that ignition module wouldn't allow the engine to run above idle, but it does fine now.

Next comes pulling the engine to repair the oil leak from the sump. Replacing the rear drive disk on the drive shaft and bolting it all back together. If everything works at that point, I'll see about ordering a couple of new front tires for it. The rear ag tires are covered in small cracks but hold air  so that can wait a while.

 I was out on the porch looking at all the work I have to do. The tiller is a bit tough to remove and install so I believe that will stay on the 7010. This will leave me with the 7016 to use for the cultivators and a driveway plane or box blade I'm thinking of building. I'm not sure what the lift cable will handle as far as a box blade weight goes and I do not want to break another one. I broke the one on the 7117 while using the cultivators. I have an idea that the down pressure of the sweeps cutting into the earth may have caused the break.

 BTW, I ordered a Nikon Coolpix digital camera used off Ebay and it was delivered today. If I can figure out how to use it, there will be pics soon.

 

[Tarheel]

 I worked on the drive shaft tonight. Found the reason that it was so tight. The rear (BGB end) had 2 disks and lots of washers. Those called for and I think it was 3 thin ones per side as well. All stacked between the disk and the yoke.

 Got a new set screw installed and bolted the electric lift back into place. Fired it up and drove it a short bit. there is a good bit of vibration that I will have to address.

 Downloaded a manual for the camera. Only 143 pages But I'm working on it. I'll have to find a USB cable for it. The end for the camera is tiny and I don't think I have one that will fit.

[SmilinSam]

6 hours ago, Tarheel said:

  The rear (BGB end) had 2 disks and lots of washers. Those called for and I think it was 3 thin ones per side as well. All stacked between the disk and the yoke.

 

Generally 1 fiber disk on each end of the driveshaft, with 1 heavy thick special washer with one side with bevel edges  - on each side of the fiber disk....with the bevel side against the disk. This wherever a bolt goes through the disk.

 The only exception might be where the front disk bolts to the driveshaft adaptor. I have seen the metal spacer directly against the one side of the disk with no washer.on that side. Should consult a parts diagram to be sure though.

 Previous owners have a way of making non oem alterations during re-assembly. Case in point , I disassembled the B-210 yesterday to find the upper steering gear that rides on the eccentric pin had been broken in half and welded back together at one time. When they re-assembled they omitted the bushings that are supposed to be installed in the gear flanges... Instead they used flat washers on both sides and torqued it down till the washers puckered into the holes some.🤪

Edited September 18, 2024 by SmilinSam

[Tarheel]

 Thanks Sam. There are a good many places where I can see the work of the PO on this one.

It came to me moments ago that the disk I used came off the Kohler flywheel and so was for 3/8ths bolts instead of 5/16ths. This could be where the vibration is coming from.  (Hope to be so lucky)

 But, I have long wanted a 16 single and the shorter wheel base will be handy in the garden etc. Sooner or later maybe I'll get all the bugs out and have a nice little machine. If it turns out like the 7010 6 speed, I'm gonna love it.

 I'm running late in doing so, but I just received a 1 oz packet of purple top rutabaga seed. Something I've never grown before. If the ground will dry out enough, Maybe i can plant them before the next hurricane comes through. As it looks now, the eye is going to pass right over this area. But a lot can change in a week or so.