Landlord 2210 carburetor conundrum

[DET17]

Well it's been quite a while since I've posted.  My '68 (or '69) LANDLORD 2210 needs to come out of hibernation to perform some site prep for grass planting.

Unfortunately, the last time it ran.... I could only get the tractor to idle.  Any hint of opening the throttle and it stalled.  I sourced an NOS B&S rebuild kit for my carb (which is a CHINA replacement sold to me by I SAVE TRACTORS).  I gambled and bet that the the copy used all the consumable parts from the original.  Today I disassembled the clone carb and in fact found nearly everything in the B&S overhaul kit fit, with exception of the fuel bowl needle valve.  Cleaned everything up nicely;  brake clean thru every drilled port for all jets (idle jet, power screw).  Set the float level and reassembled.  NO JOY.  The clone carb does essentially the same thing as before - you can spray starting fluid down the inlet, and she fires and runs for a couple seconds, then dies.

Fuel tank is full with brand new 100% ethyl (no corn liquor).  I do also have an inline filter on the gravity feed.... thinking about removing it tomorrow and running a straight 1/4" fuel line sans filter to see if that makes a difference.

I will also mention that I currently have NO air filter.  My ancient foam cylindrical filter disintegrated when I attempted to clean it.   Went to my local Tractor Supply today and they had nothing even close to working...... so I"m back to square one on that.

Appreciate hints and insights to get the old Simplicity and ancient Briggs back to work!

 

 

 

 

 

[Bill725]

Old foam air cleaner is B&S P/N 270093. How much compression?

[DET17]

I just found that same P/N, thank you.

Compression unknown.  I'm sure she needs a complete overhaul and an OS piston & rings.  Now that I'm retired I hope to find the time to do a complete rebuild.... I've owned this old Landlord since '91 but she has had limited duty for the last 20 years.

[Bill725]

@DET17

What is wrong with the OEM B&S Carb?

Assuming a B&S CI 10HP, here is the 0.020" undersized connecting rod, P/N 390305. They are becoming very hard to find.

 https://www.ebay.com/itm/326455139151?_skw=briggs+and+stratton+390305&itmmeta=01K6SXSFWRX1TJAHAKJDJG78DK&hash=item4c023e1b4f:g:iDkAAOSw3ABnuNvH&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fCASpkL4XbBeC7BmZFxdpfDYGu3zyKFr20%2FfeWYkLcxh2gsP%2Bk7OzN%2BBDDs5iSvbhN7cRVgQzTJbJWlYwt03ZqaY56C%2BXXi%2BNjfSrh%2BwGioMYTLITSnlDyyQv3PvPpZJw4z8BUhmrrpdwbY6QZ70iFLH8KazCBOVT7ZyW%2BpfZtAVWe1zyPxRDNFO4xRxk3bbTC7TeuElq6UOBRDbR4a4Jn7ZCMVpZ3uyO4AgxMB8KF6JXzzpgPHCxqR9mJcGJagKurbcKXsPGS%2BoUMQS%2FOEWXQ1e2W0uF4iht--Z2UpiXQaZIvQX2re4bQWFCNDH19wJE%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8b-5b22Zg

Piston assemblies:

0.020" over, P/Ns 299087/792363

0.030" over, P/N 299088 

Edited October 5, 2025 by Bill725

[DET17]

Thanks Bill725!

The original B&S carb was badly worn in the bores of the throttle shaft & choke shaft.... since there was a replacement available from ISAVETRACTORS I pushed the easy button and bought it.  Perhaps the OE unit was serviceable but I did not retain it.

The clone carb ran fine for a number of years but I suspect (foolishly) I put some "corn liquor" fuel into the system and plugged it up with ethanol jello.  When I took it apart yesterday I did not find any blockages, but installed the NOS B&S parts whilst I was there. I should also mention that in attempts prior to "keep it running" I bought the points & condenser kit and installed them / adjusted them per my B&S engine manual.  

When fuel was flowing properly (my theory) the old CI 10HP had enough power to drive my 42" mower deck on TN sloping ground, so it wasn't gutless.  I believe the plug was also replaced and gapped to spec.

We just relocated to retirement housing in TN, so most of my tools/manuals are buried in boxes.  I have a compression gauge that I briefly saw while packing the house so I still own one.  Since you mentioned compression, what range should my ancient engine test at?

I'm going to gravity flow check the fuel supply this morning..... disconnect, put into fuel container and open the petcock.  I seem to remember doing this before and it flowed AOK.

If the carb is actually fine, what would the next suspect be?  Worn out piston/bore which won't generate any vacuum pulse to the up draft carb?  

I will also mention that I have NEVER made any valve adjustment(s) to this 10 HP cast iron Briggs.  

 

 

 

 

[DET17]

and also, thanks for the eBay link on the .020" undersized rod... I bought it.  Will setup and search on eBay and wait for the .020" and .030" piston/ring set.

[GWGAllisfan]

You may have already done this, but unscrew the high speed needle from the lower part of the carb. Fuel should flow freely. If not then somehow fuel is not getting to the bowl. If it flows, then the problem is likely in the Venturi/emulsion tube. A bad carb mounting gasket, or the ones between the block and tin can really cause trouble.

[DET17]

Thanks for that tip!  I just discovered that 3/4 of a full tank leaked out overnight.... I've got quite a leak in the old steel tank/petcock/hose somewhere.  I'm taking it apart now to ID the source of the leak.  

Did anyone make a plastic replacement tank for these Simple Tractors ?  If mine is rusted out, that will likely keep her down hard until I can source a replacement or have the steel tank sealed.

[ShaunE]

8 hours ago, DET17 said:

Did anyone make a plastic replacement tank for these Simple Tractors ?  If mine is rusted out, that will likely keep her down hard until I can source a replacement or have the steel tank sealed.

If you don’t have any rust through & the rust is surface on the inside, fill with a few hundred Daisy or Crossman BB’s & take to your nearest hardware store & ask them to put it in their paint can shaker for a couple minutes. Or wrap in a blanket & throw inside an old cement mixer for a few hours. I know it sounds crazy but I can guarantee it will make the inside of that tank spotless.

[Bill725]

23 hours ago, DET17 said:

The original B&S carb was badly worn in the bores of the throttle shaft & choke shaft

Your OEM carb is worth saving. I suggest replacing the worn throttle shaft and bushings. See attached. I tap the bushings and use a screw to pull out. If it don't want to come out easily, use a propane torch to heat the aluminum carb body. Use the old bushing to press in the new bushing. I have used a 7/32" drill but have upgraded to a 7/32" reamer. Throttle shaft P/N is 298535/691944 and the bushings are P/N 23108/691769.

If you have trouble getting the roll pin out of the throttle stop, I suggest getting a roll pin punch set. 

Another option to @ShaunEpost above, I have wrapped the gas tank in bubble wrap and bungy corded the tank to a rear tire of another tractor and drove around the yard awhile. I have also used muriatic acid and rinsed it with Super Clean. IMHO, Super Clean works better than Simple Green and Purple Power. FYI, Super Clean now makes a product for pressure washers.

Keep us informed. As, there are several of us who are happy helping others trying to keep the tractors from being scrapped.

Edited October 6, 2025 by Bill725

[DET17]

Thank you both for your detailed reply!  I will save this ancient LANDLORD and plan to pass it to my oldest son when I'm done with it.  

I've used the BB trick on a HONDA Goldwing steel tank and it works well;  I have the full container of BB's in my workshop hoard (just need to find it after moving!).  I did test the fuel tank and petcock/strainer and was barely getting any fuel out of it.  The petcock unscrewed cleanly and the threads NPT were fine (looked like 1/8").  I will find that part #, but surely a fuel rated petcock and 90* barb setup will work just fine, especially with my inline filter above the carb inlet.

Sadly my OE carb went into the recycle bin.  I've set up a search on eBay for another but that will take a while.  I've got to deal with the fuel tank first and then will circle back to my ISaveTractors China carb.  

I did buy that .020" undersized rod, and have my search setup for an .020" OS piston/rings.

Thanks again for the 411.... agree these tank like tractors of yesteryear were built for the ages, unlike all the disposable units today.

[Tom45]

Some other engines and mowers of this vintage used a fuel tank of the same dimensions although the fuel inlet and outlet may be in a different location.  Some can be made to work although a new outlet port might need to be soldered on (be careful with fuel vapors in the tank).

[PhanDad]

On 10/5/2025 at 12:29 PM, DET17 said:

Did anyone make a plastic replacement tank for these Simple Tractors ?

An old Lawnboy push mower plastic tank has been used with FDTs:

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/46259-fdt-plastic-replacement-gas-tank/

 

[DET17]

Thanks again folks for all the wisdom.

I took a peek inside the tank and it seems to have very limited rust.... I have some 30% Vinegar I recently used to removed rust from the coolant passages of an iron 4 cylinder, I suspect it will do a nice job de-rusting the interior of the tank.  Found several suppliers of the 1/8" NPT x 1/4" hose barb fuel shutoff valves, so I'll get one of those on order.

Once my tank is sealed, new valve, and perhaps treated with RED-KOTE or POR-15, I will resume investigations into the carb.  I will circle back with an update........

 

[DET17]

Updating my repair efforts:

 

1.  Just bought another gallon of 30% Vinegar for the fuel tank.  I didn't have enough to approach "near full" so a full gallon has been added to maybe 1/3 gallon I had inside.  I have the tank stored in a catch basin so we shall see if the vinegar can find it's way outside.

2.  Bought a pair of NOS oil soaked foam filters for the carb air cleaner housing.  

3.  Finally sourced a new shutoff valve (which may well have been the source of the fuel leak,  hope so).  A bit of an odd ball config compared to the usual Moto fuel tank shutoffs.... 1/8" NPT male x 1/4" hose barb.  

Once the fuel tank is leak free, I'll install that new shutoff valve and refuel the carb.  I'll check the fuel feed as well as the 45* jet "power screw" as my Dad used to call them.  I know the knock off China carb worked, at least initially.  

More to come......

Edited November 3, 2025 by DET17

[PhanDad]

Thanks for the update. 

 

[DET17]

On 10/5/2025 at 10:38 AM, GWGAllisfan said:

You may have already done this, but unscrew the high speed needle from the lower part of the carb. Fuel should flow freely. If not then somehow fuel is not getting to the bowl. If it flows, then the problem is likely in the Venturi/emulsion tube. A bad carb mounting gasket, or the ones between the block and tin can really cause trouble.

You were spot on with this advice.  I pulled the carb 90* elbow off today, and sure enough the gasket on the OUTside of the tin was compromised and had broken sections.  I discovered the engine sheet metal plate that fit between the carb 90* and the engine inlet port, apparently also had a gasket beneath it.  Using an online resource, I found a parts breakdown for the carb, and it specs a B&S 27381S gasket as used between intake manifold to engine.  Found them on eBay, and ordered a pair.... planning to try and install them on both sides of the sheet metal plate which is bolted between the intake 90* and the engine inlet.

In other news, I drained the steel fuel tank of the 30% vinegar, and while it is quite clean inside, it appears to have a fracture crack on the bottom of the tank (very thin, cannot be sure).  In order to avoid leaks, I'll be finding a material to seal the steel tank with, something like POR 15 or similar.   Looks like it will be awhile before this old Landlord is running again.

[BMinor0788]

If you need a new gas tank, I have on off of my uncle’s Landlord 2210.

[DET17]

Well, circling back on my LL reviving project.  Fuel tank was just cleaned chemically and then coated with POR-15 fuel tank sealer.  My carb has been rebuilt (the CHINA clone) using the OE B&S parts.  Once this tank sees sunshine for 96 hours, I'll reassemble and then add some actual 100% ethyl, no corn liquor in this old Landlord.  

As suggested by one fellow, the gasket(s) where the updraft 90* attached to the iron block, were indeed shot & cracked.  Now I have NOS gaskets on each side of the tin, so I should have a strong vacuum signal to the carb.  I will update the result once I get some test results.......

 

Edited December 20, 2025 by DET17

[DET17]

Good news!  After reassembly, a 1/2 tank of 100% ethyl, and several shots of starting fluid.... my old LL2210 is breathing fire again!  Made an adjustment of the power screw ( my Dad's name) with a bit of favor toward the LEAN side (screwed in until unstable, then just out until smooth).  

Drove the old machine around my 2.8 acres, and she ran quite well.  Turned up the idle speed just a bit as it was idling quite low.  From the first successful test, she would restart with ease.

So far, no leaks detected, other than fuel draining out the bottom carb drain when I over choked  it on the first start.

Several folks mentioned compression..... I don't know if I own my old gauge anymore.  Think I loaned it out and it never came home....... If I find a gauge, what range of cranking compression should I be seeing?  And where is the danger zone located indicating an overhaul is needed?

Thanks folks!

 

 

 

[Bill725]

The older L-head engines have lower compression ratios than the newer OHV engines. Newly rebuilt engines have 90-100 PSI cold with WOT.

[DET17]

Thanks for the reply.  What would the typical PSI range be for rings/bore that are still reasonably serviceable?  I'm guessing something like 70% of the rebuilt figure?