3112H Engine Filled with water, now what?

[joelk]

We had a major flood this summer and my tractor was almost under water.  I never thought about it until now and went to start it.  The engine is locked.  I drained the oil and water poured out for a long time before the oil finally emptied out.  I filled with new oil but I don't know what to do next.  Pulling on the starter belt it seems that the engine is frozen.  What is my next steps?  No real hurry, but would like to use it for log splitting again.  

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Joel

[Bill725]

The areas most likely to seize from rust are: piston to cylinder, crankshaft bearings and balancer bearings, valve train. I suggest removing the engine from the tractor. Completely clean and degrease the engine. Remove the cylinder to inspect the piston, cylinder and valves. Pour enough ATF on top of the piston to let soak for a while. I would also fill the crankcase with ATF. If your block has an oil fill hole between the crankcase and cylinder by the starter/generator use that to fill let sit. Check occasionally by rotating the crank to see if it will free up.

[Chris727]

The BGB and transmission may also have water in them. 

[joelk]

Dang, this is getting depressing.  To top it off I'm leaving on a trip for 2 weeks and its getting cold outside.  

I put some atf in the spark plug hole for now.  When I get back I'll check again. 

[JoeT&DMaker]

The transmission and differential  probably have water in them too.

 

Joe....

[Mikeac]

Wow that stinks. Goodluck 

[Brettw]

Drain the trans and BGB before the freeze hits.  Even if you can't work on them or refill them, I would drain them

[Austin]

Ditto with Brett's assessment. I've seen a few transmissions that have cracked and blown apart due to frozen water. 

[joelk]

Well, I pulled it out of the woods and had some starter/generator and battery problems, but it runs and drives!

The problem I am having is getting the carb adjusted. I did drain the gas tank and filled with fresh.  I cleaned the main needle, but it is running lean and surging no matter how far out I screw the needle.  If I start to close the choke plate, I can get it to run smooth for a while, but suddenly it will change to rich (coughing and puffing).  I then open the choke and screw the needle in to lean it back out and it starts surging lean again.  I have had this tractor 40 years and never had the carb apart so am no expert.  What is the next step.  Any help is appreciated.  

[Bill725]

Remove the carb from engine. Remove the high speed needle valve and nut. Remove the main jet using a flat screw driver that will fit without damaging the threads. I have a special screwdriver with both sides ground to fit. Remove the (4) top fuel bowl screws and separate the upper and lower carb assemblies. Remove float and needle valve. Remove the idle speed needle valve.

Reassemble in reverse order. Do not over tighten the (4) fuel bowl screws. Set idle valve at 1 turn open and main valve at 1-1/2 turn open. Adjust from there.

[joelk]

I got it off and cleaned everything the best I could (soaked in seafoam overnight).  I put it back on and it is much better (serviceable for what I need for now).  Unfortunately I tore the gasket wrestling to get it back on the tractor.  Can you point me to the correct repair kit for this engine?    I can't find the engine number anywhere, but I would like to put in a new emulsion tube, high speed jet and replace the gaskets.  This is the original Briggs 12 hp from 1970.  Thanks again for your help.

[Bill725]

B&S 300421-0127

Carb Rebuild Kit, 299720 NLA, Ebay

Main Jet, 299518 NLA, Ebay.

Gasket-Nozzle, 68667/691610

Hi Speed Jet, 99525S

Gasket-Carb Body, 270268/692215

[joelk]

Thanks Bill, I appreciate the help.  I'll let you know how it turns out.