rear mount lift cable on a 7119

[mbsengineer]

I have the piece below for my 7119, but I've never mounted it on my tractor.  I just found the attached lift kit in 7100 series attachment manual.  It looks like I need a lot of pieces.  Are all the guides really necessary, or can you just get by with just the cable and the pulley (16)?  Does anyone have a photo or diagram of where the pulley mounts and how the cable attaches to the lift arm?  I laid down and looked under the tractor and didn't see a spot for where the pulley mounts, nor was I sure where exactly the end of the cable mounts.

Appreciate any help folks!

[mbsengineer]

Also, I forgot to ask how long the cable is (in case I want to try to fabricate one).  I found an eBay listing stating 38.5", not including the clevis.  Does someone have a measurement between the mounting holes on each end?  That's the real distance I would need to replicate.

Also, does anyone happen to know the diameter of the pulley?  Did an online search but can't find the specifics of that exact part number.  Found one that starts with a 2, but not sure if that's the same pulley.

[Chris727]

Your rear lift is from an older tractor (FDT). Does it have the special reducing collar on the other side? The cable pulley is the same as the one used for the mower deck lift cable. They are very plentiful in used and probably new condition. Try downloading the operators manual from the SimplicityMFG site for the  lift kit. MFR# 1690404. It will show some of the installation process. 

[BMinor0788]

The cable is 41-1/8” from center eye to center of eye on clevis. I have these cables made by a company to OEM specs. Would you be interested in one? I was thinking of buying 10 to sell.

[PhanDad]

6 hours ago, mbsengineer said:

Does anyone have a photo or diagram of where the pulley mounts

I’m away ATM, I’ll post pics when I return on Manday if no one else sooner. 

[AC710]

Here is a photo of the underside of a 7016 showing the rockshaft and an electric lift (similar to the hydraulic cylinder on the 7100 series). The pulley and keeper mounts on the two bars just below the "rockshaft" label arrow point. The cable end is pinned to the two bars on the rockshaft. The keepers are important when the cable is slack to keep it aligned on the pulleys.

 

 

I believe your 7119 has the rockshaft with a metal loop - the black one in this photo. In that case the cable can be run over the loop and pinned to the opposite end of the rockshaft bars without using a pulley. That arrangement is for mounting the heavy duty tiller, but the only difference is which direction the control switch is moved to go up or down. (it is set up to install a counterweight on the front).

 

Here is a portion of the installation manual that shows how to mount the cable in either case.

 

And here is a photo of a rear lift for a RBT tractor with the special reducing collar Chris mentioned - just to the left of the arrow. That enables you to install the assembly without taking the rear hitch apart.

 

[malsup]

On 4/4/2026 at 11:05 AM, mbsengineer said:

I have the piece below for my 7119, but I've never mounted it on my tractor.  I just found the attached lift kit in 7100 series attachment manual.  It looks like I need a lot of pieces.  Are all the guides really necessary, or can you just get by with just the cable and the pulley (16)?  Does anyone have a photo or diagram of where the pulley mounts and how the cable attaches to the lift arm?  I laid down and looked under the tractor and didn't see a spot for where the pulley mounts, nor was I sure where exactly the end of the cable mounts.

Appreciate any help folks!

 

On 4/4/2026 at 11:05 AM, mbsengineer said:

I have the piece below for my 7119, but I've never mounted it on my tractor.  I just found the attached lift kit in 7100 series attachment manual.  It looks like I need a lot of pieces.  Are all the guides really necessary, or can you just get by with just the cable and the pulley (16)?  Does anyone have a photo or diagram of where the pulley mounts and how the cable attaches to the lift arm?  I laid down and looked under the tractor and didn't see a spot for where the pulley mounts, nor was I sure where exactly the end of the cable mounts.

Appreciate any help folks!

Lots of moving pieces in this thread. I fabricate most all of the pieces involved including the cable. If you want to speak further about your exact situation and needs I'd be happy to help. I don't get on Simple Tractors as much as I should - probably. You can contact me directly at mbalsup@gmail.com.

[mbsengineer]

On 4/4/2026 at 4:57 PM, BMinor0788 said:

The cable is 41-1/8” from center eye to center of eye on clevis. I have these cables made by a company to OEM specs. Would you be interested in one? I was thinking of buying 10 to sell.

I'd be interested.  How much do you sell them for?

[maxwood]

Hello , I make the rear lift bushing for the large hole.  I sell these for $24 shipping included

I have made some clevis parts  .the cable is threaded into the clevis 

Let me know if interested.

Thanks Ken in Mi

[BMinor0788]

13 hours ago, mbsengineer said:

I'd be interested.  How much do you sell them for?

I charge $125 a cable and that includes shipping.

[PhanDad]

On 4/4/2026 at 12:05 PM, mbsengineer said:

Are all the guides really necessary, or can you just get by with just the cable and the pulley (16)?

I'll let you be the judge; many people run without them.  Here are pics of the latest recommended guides to go with the other "underside" pic posted by @AC710 :

Note guide P was changed to a rectangular shape (no longer "L" shaped).  I haven't found the change on any instruction sheet just the latest IPL:

 

[AC710]

In Phandad's first photo you can see that 'reversing loop' on the rockshaft lever. Instead of going over the pulley, the cable is routed through the pulley bracket, over the loop and attached to the other end of the loop lever. When routed over the pulley, both front and rear lift will go up or down when the control is moved (manual lever or hydraulic). If routed over the loop, front and rear operate in opposite directions. I set mine up so I could run a front blade and rear box blade on one tractor. When one is up, the other is down. Tricky, but it works. (I'm not sure why I put the weights on the front blade in this photo, they're not needed). It is also useful for a heavy implement like a snow blower. You can add a counterweight on the rear lift that also aids in traction.

As designed, the reversing loop was intended for use with the heavy-duty tiller, and a counterweight would be mounted on the front of the tractor.

[mbsengineer]

Thanks for the photos @PhanDad and @AC710.  Those really clear it up.  Now I just need the cable and get it installed.

[AC710]

Several years ago I had a local logging/equipment parts supply store build a cable for me. It is 3/16" cable with a loop on one end and a clevis on the other. I added a large trimmed nut inside the loop for a spacer on the rockshaft end. They used a 500 ton press to swedge the ends. Cost around $26 then, more now I'm sure. You might check around if there is someone who builds industrial cables.

(p.s. I added the extra end bracket because I estimated the cable length too short.)

[mbsengineer]

3 hours ago, AC710 said:

Several years ago I had a local logging/equipment parts supply store build a cable for me. It is 3/16" cable with a loop on one end and a clevis on the other. I added a large trimmed nut inside the loop for a spacer on the rockshaft end. They used a 500 ton press to swedge the ends. Cost around $26 then, more now I'm sure. You might check around if there is someone who builds industrial cables.

(p.s. I added the extra end bracket because I estimated the cable length too short.)

 

Yeah, that's what I was thinking, just making my own cable.  I was thinking about doing a loop like yours, but I actually have an extra mower deck lift cable that I can cut and use the clevis on the on one end to mount to the rockarm.  Then I join that to another cable to make the length I need.  The only catch is the threaded end on the other end of the cable.  I haven't been able to come up with a good way to fabricate that.  I could just use a U style cable clamp like this one to attach the cable to a bolt.  Just nervous that might not hold.

[mbsengineer]

Actually, I think I found a solution.

Buy this cable:  https://grandbrass.com/5ft-long-3-16in-diameter-steel-cable-with-crimped-threaded-stud/

And buy this clevis: https://www.grainger.com/product/849WF4

Then go to the local Lowes or Home Depot and use their swaging tool to crimp on a couple of ferrules to bind the 2 cables together.

Does anyone see any issues with this solution?  Spending <$30 (including shipping) sounds too good to be true.

[AC710]

I got an OEM cable off EBay without the clevis. I just fabbed a piece of strap for the rear end (in this pic). I also made the guide squares from heavy wire for this tractor.

I think your idea of Lowes swaging tool to make a loop would work fine. The worst that might happen is to drop an implement if it comes apart. I wondered about the load rating of the cable end from a lighting supply house - they didn't list it in the ad. I'm guessing it is designed for hanging heavy fixtures from the ceiling, so it may be okay?

[Brettw]

58 minutes ago, mbsengineer said:

Actually, I think I found a solution.

Buy this cable:  https://grandbrass.com/5ft-long-3-16in-diameter-steel-cable-with-crimped-threaded-stud/

And buy this clevis: https://www.grainger.com/product/849WF4

Then go to the local Lowes or Home Depot and use their swaging tool to crimp on a couple of ferrules to bind the 2 cables together.

Does anyone see any issues with this solution?  Spending <$30 (including shipping) sounds too good to be true.

I like it!

[BMinor0788]

The cable is 3/16” diameter 7x19 aircraft grade. It needs to be this strong for the lifting of weight over the pulleys and such. I spent time with Assembly Specialty Inc. to get it right. They use a 30 ton press to swage the ends on.

[mbsengineer]

18 hours ago, AC710 said:

I got an OEM cable off EBay without the clevis. I just fabbed a piece of strap for the rear end (in this pic). I also made the guide squares from heavy wire for this tractor.

I think your idea of Lowes swaging tool to make a loop would work fine. The worst that might happen is to drop an implement if it comes apart. I wondered about the load rating of the cable end from a lighting supply house - they didn't list it in the ad. I'm guessing it is designed for hanging heavy fixtures from the ceiling, so it may be okay?

Just called the lighting place.  The cable with the threaded end is rated for up to 550 lbs, so should be more than enough for holding a tiller.  I'm gonna give it a shot and see what happens.

[AC710]

Definitely worth a try. Just for grins I looked up the specs for the made-up cable from the logging supply. 3/16" aircraft stainless  with steel swaged ends runs 3,700 lb rated load. I would say that is overkill for this application, but it would be interesting to see what the designed working load would be for the Simplicity lift mechanism.

I once tried hauling around a  250 lb. Jacobsen snow blower attachment on a stinger attached to the rear lift. It overloaded the electric lift actuator (it has a ball-detent load limiter), but the cable arrangement did not complain.

[mbsengineer]

On 4/4/2026 at 9:42 PM, AC710 said:

Here is a photo of the underside of a 7016 showing the rockshaft and an electric lift (similar to the hydraulic cylinder on the 7100 series). The pulley and keeper mounts on the two bars just below the "rockshaft" label arrow point. The cable end is pinned to the two bars on the rockshaft. The keepers are important when the cable is slack to keep it aligned on the pulleys.

 

 

I believe your 7119 has the rockshaft with a metal loop - the black one in this photo. In that case the cable can be run over the loop and pinned to the opposite end of the rockshaft bars without using a pulley. That arrangement is for mounting the heavy duty tiller, but the only difference is which direction the control switch is moved to go up or down. (it is set up to install a counterweight on the front).

 

Here is a portion of the installation manual that shows how to mount the cable in either case.

 

And here is a photo of a rear lift for a RBT tractor with the special reducing collar Chris mentioned - just to the left of the arrow. That enables you to install the assembly without taking the rear hitch apart.

 

@AC710  When you perform step #5 in your attached instructions, is the clevis screwed about halfway in on the threaded part of the cable end?

[AC710]

6 hours ago, mbsengineer said:

@AC710  When you perform step #5 in your attached instructions, is the clevis screwed about halfway in on the threaded part of the cable end?

That's as good a place as any to start. The arc of the lift will govern where you want the clevis. The stinger tube on the lift should not contact the closed seat pan when fully "up". You should just hook it up, , close the seat pan, then hang some weight on the lift to keep it tight. A barbell weight works good. Then run the lift up and down, lock to lock. Unpin and reset the clevis, trial and error. Then tighten the jam nut.

None of the cables I have are spec, so my initial setting wouldn't mean much.

[BMinor0788]

The fixed length of the cable center of front eye to rear clevis eye is 41-1/8" long. I use this for all 4 of my Sovereign tractors and the lift is set at the correct range.

[Bill725]

With proper pressure in both front and rear tires and the tractor sitting on level ground (garage floor), with the lift all the way down, adjust so the rear lift tube is level.