Ignition Wiring

[DoubleT]

I have acquired an older model Simplicty Lawn Tractor Model 4211. It is a great piece of equipment but it would die after 15 minutes of operation. I was told that the coil was heating up and shutting down. I replaced the coil, condensor and points and I am not getting any spark. I am not sure I wired it properly. I have all three wires going to the same place on the points. The wires are form the coil, the condensor and the ignition switch ground wire. I read the discussion topics and realized my key was shearing, I will try that but stil am curious about the wiring.

[Al]

Hi,
The wires are correct, a sheared key is a likely prospect particularly if the flywheel was not torqued correctly. Also check the washer under the flywheel nut. It is a cupped spring steel washer and has to go on with the dome up in the center. If it gets flipped over, you won't be able to keep a flywheel key in it. I would have recommended you replace the whole coil, points, and condensor with one of the new solid state module coils. Then you remove the point plunger and drive a plug in the hole and eliminate 2 problems 1 the points and condensor and 2 the common oil leak around the plunger that often later seeps down the side of the engine. You can also install the module on the coil you have. They are made by Briggs and work very well, called Magnetrons, they sell in the 15.00+ range. I am at the house and don't have a price sheet. Good luck, AL

[Les]

Al,

Do they make a Magnetron for the old B & S model 19's
with points on the side of the block??

Thanks,
Roy

[Les]

I don't think B&S makes a magnetron replacement for the "19".

[Al]

Hi,
I agree, I believe the Magnetron is only used with 2 leg coils, and I believe the older engines had 3 poles. The alternative is to use one of the aftermarket kits. I have used very few, the ones I did seemed to work, I used them on appplications like chain saws that points were no longer available for etc. These would be like Atom, Mega-fire etc. You just remove the points and as I remember the condensor and put the 2 wires from module between point lead and ground. They will have instructions. Briggs had a service bulletin several years ago about them, saying they required higher cranking speeds and changed the timing etc and did not recommend using them. I don't know how correct it was, but we always try to stay OEM if possible. Good Luck, Al

[Floydster]

Roy didn't wiring diagram work that sent you?

[Floydster]

Bob,

Don't know. I haven't tried it yet. I'm trying to make
it through the grass cutting season until I can afford
some downtime.

Right now my tractor runs about 30 40 minutes until it
gets hot and I hit a bump or pop a wheelie. Then it
starts missing and the power goes away. I quit for the
day and finish mowing the next day. Very irritating but
I don't have time through the week to play with it.

Will update you if I ever get around to solving the
problem and/or get an ignition module installed.

Thanks,
Roy

[Kent]

Thanks for the advice, I replaced the sheared key, torqued the nut to 140lbs and it worked. Now I need to redo the carb and get a tiller attachment also..It runs great for now. Thanks again!