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AC B-12


Karl_Brandt

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I just bought a Allis Chalmers B -12 that is missing most of the engine.All the parts of the engine I have is carb,starter-generator,engine cover. The 12 hp engine was blown up 9 years ago and thrown out for scrap. The tractor has hydraulic lift and came with a 32"rotto tiller,42"snow blade, 42"mower deck,10"plow and hitch adapter kit. The tractor is a little rusty but good shape overall. I was thinking of putting a 16 hp Briggs & Stratton engine in the tractor. I have a few 16 hp B&S that need to be rebuilt first. With starter-generator or newer style with starter and Alt. Would this fit right in the tractor. 16 hp would have lots of power for my 42" snow blower. Thanks Karl Brandt
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The 16HP and 12HP Briggs use the same block, so it'll bolt right in. You won't even be able to tell that it's not original by looking -- unless you look at the numbers on it... The foot-draggin' Clubhouse Custodian...
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Karl, If you put a newer engine in it that has the stand pipe/dipstick you will have to take the standpipe out and put in a pipe plug and change the pan to one off an engine that was originally in one of the old B-series with the oil fill/check in the pan. All this so you won't have to hack up the tinwork. I did this on my HB 116. If you use a standard pipe plug with a square head on it you will have to cut about half the heighth of the square off too. I prefer the plugs that have a allen wrench hole in the middle when I can find them. The original 12 would have had the exra synchro balancer on the PTO side, while the 16's will not. But, that does not really matter function wise, only if you want it to "look" original.
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The engine fits right in but you have to notch the frame out for the oil fill.I have not done it my self but have seen it done.Bob
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I started tearing down two 16 hp engines (not complete engines)and I found one was good needs rings and gaskets etc.I will use the starter generator setup on the tractor,found a oil pan from a 9 or 10 hp with the little oil fill pipe and plastic cap,the engine also has the hole in the block for the long oil fill tube. I quess this will be a AC-B-16. Karl
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have a Wards that has gone from a 7.25 B/S to a 10 B/S to a 12 Kohler, and now has a 14 Kohler. I didn't cut any sheetmetal. I made adapter plates and moved my grill forward 3 inches and raised my hood two inches to make the Kohlers fit under. I'm not that hard on engines. In fact I still have the last three and they all run good. I have been using it for tractor pulling, and the classes change every few years. Rod H.
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Karl, I put a new-style gear-start 16HP in my B-210 and didn't even bother changing the oil fill tube or oil pan. I loosened the mounting bracket for the fill tube and carefully twisted it just a little bit to where the tube will clear the side of the hood. Now, the top of the oil fill is up underneath the hood, so I have to remove the hood to check the oil. But, I only use the back two thumbscrews to hold my hood on, so that's no big deal. Dunno specifically what hood clearance problems you'd have with the oil fill tube on the older "round-hood" models.... Kent The foot-draggin' Clubhouse Custodian...
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Kent, Its two different stand pipes. The one you have on the newer engine comes out of the shoulder of the block and up alongside the cylinder to the top of the engine. The other one I am talking of off the early to mid 70's tractors has a 4" pipe screwed into the block about 2 inches above the pan on the starter side. It wont fit in the 1970 and older tractors without notching out the lower part of the Grill/front hood support - around the oil fill notch to be precise.
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Sam, Now I get it -- sorry for any confusion. My 1989 replacement 10HP that was in my B-210 had one of those short dipsticks. It fit fine, because the B-210 has a "bulge" made in frame siderail and grille support. The "downer" on that one was that the drain plug was on the opposite (left) side so someone had cut a hole in the frame over there... Kent The foot-draggin' Clubhouse Custodian...
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The pans are reversible, BUT it depends on whether your oil fill is in the block or in the pan. If the oil fill is in the pan, and the drain is on the same side as the oil fill, you can reverse it. If the drain is opposite the oil fill, you cannot reverse it as there is no provision in the frame for an oil fill on that side. I'm not real sure, but I believe there is a provision in the oil pan to drill and tap for a drain. Pat
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I ordered the parts for the engine,now I can work on the tractor. Found the bevel box needs some repairs,the short shaft is worn or bearings are worn.The hydraulic lift might need new seals,is there a repair kit still available for this unit(990367),the numbers I have on the hydraulic lift unit do not price. Thanks Karl
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