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SmilinSam

Briggs vangaurd wiring Schematic

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HubbardRA
sAM, i HAVE A vANGUARD, WHICH i WIRED. i MUST BE GETTIN OLD CAUSE i CAN'T REMBER HOW IT IS HOOKED UP. i'LL CHECK TOMORROW AND LET YOU KNOW. Didn't even notice that the caps were locked. Oh well. Rod H.

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SmilinSam
My primary concern is wiring up the charging system into the tractor. The thing that is throwng me off is that there is the red wire with the diode, a scond red wire and a yellow wire that is cut off and goes out to nothing at the moment - all three of these are connected with a wire nut. Need to know what each is supposed to be for.

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PatRarick
Sam, Need a little more information to determine which system you have. I can't find one with the wires you describe. How many, and what color are the wires from the stator? Is there a rectifier/regulator? If so, is it mounted with one bolt in the center, or one bolt on each end? Pat

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HubbardRA
Sam, I was just thinking. You should have a wire coming from alternator (regulator on board), another wire from ignition, a wire going to the anti-diesel solenoid in bottom of carb. This one from the anti-diesel solenoid can be connected to same point as ignition. The alternator wire must be separated from these others when switch is off to prevent run-on, since alternator will energize ignition. They will all be connected with switch on. The starter solenoid is probably on chassis, with only the large wire going to starter. The reason I don't know the color code is that I always trace out the wires to see where they go and work from that. Rod H.

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SmilinSam
OK... Got 2 Yellow wires coming out of the block going to the regulator with a plastic connector between....... Got a Red wire with some black shielding on it also coming out of the block that hooks to a white wire via one of those diode type connectors(lets call this whitewire, wire "A"..) and wire "A" goes on to a tab on the keyswitch.. we have a yellow Low oil pressure shut off wire that goes to a insulated block on the engine. There is also a Black wire (wire "B") that goes from this insulated block to another tab on the keyswitch. I assume the wire from the coil is also tied to this insulated block?? We have a brown wire(wire "C") that is a ground wire and it goes from a bolt on the engine block to the ground tab on the keyswitch. we have a orange wire (wire "D") that goes from the battery side of the solenoid to a tab on the keyswitch. No doubt this is the power supply to the switch. we have wire "E" which is a red wire that comes out of the regulator and goes to the keyswitch and has another diode type connector between. The finally we hae wire "F" which is yellow and goes from the keyswitch to the starter solenoid. No doubt your start wire. When the keyswitch is in the off position there is continuity between the "E" , "C", and "B" wires/Tabs When the keyswitch is in the run position there is continuity between the "E", "D" , and "A" wire/tabs When the keyswitch is in the start position there is continuity between the "D", "F", and "A" wire/tabs Looking at thios diagram I drew form the above, the system here can be transplanted into the tractor using this keyswitch it looks like and using the right length of wires to reach everything as outlined above. The only thing I want to be sure of is "where to draw power from to power my accesory junction block on the tractor(ie for headlights etc) Give me some thoughts beofre I say anymore ... Model # 300447 Type 1249-E1 Code 98100111 4385

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HubbardRA
The accessories can be powered from any terminal on the switch that is hot when the key is in the run(on) position. Usually there is a separate terminal on a tractor switch for this. Sounds like the switch you are talking about came with the engine from another application without any accessories. The only reason the accessories are separated on most tractor switches is so that they wisll not draw power when starting. I have hooked them both ways and the both work, providing your battery is well charged. The ignition wire must be hooked to a terminal that grounds with the switch off. The oil alert must be also hooked to the ignition wire to kill the engine if you don't have oil pressure. The terminal for the alternator wire must be hot when ignition is on. If you have an anti-diesel solenoid on the carb, this must be hot when engine is on. The accessories must be hot when the engine is on. My earlier comment about energizing the ignition was wrong(thinking about a Kohler) since you have a magneto type ignition. You can wire this engine with only three contacts on the switch Battery power, hot when on, and ground when off. You didn't mention a wire from the anti diesel solenoid. Check the one that you said went to a ground screw. My engine had a wire from the ignition going to a small screw on an insulating block on the engine that connected to a wire on the back of the block going to the solenoid. If yours has one of these solenoids, it will not run unless the solenoid is energized, because it shuts off all gas to the carb. My solenoid was bad, so I drilled it out and eliminated it. Engine runs fine without it. Only problem is that sometimes it backfires when turned off. I installed my engine on a Murray and used the existing switch on the tractor. I keep forgetting to check it out. I've been very busy in the evenings, and can only check this site late at nite or from work. I'll try to check tomorrow. Kinda forgetful lately. Sam, If I don't get back about the wiring, email me. My wife bugs me about answering all of the emails that come in. So she will make sure I check it out. Rod H.

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PatRarick
Sam, As you have described it, "A" should be the anti-afterfire solenoid, "B" is the magneto ground, "C" is a ground, "D" is the "hot" wire, "E" is the alternator, and"F" is the starter solenoid. You are correct in assuming that you can transplant as you described. As to power to the junction block, there are two ways to do this. If you want constant power at the junction block, you can run wire "D" to the junction block, and run a wire from the junction block to the spade on the switch that wire "D" was formerly connected to. If you want switched power, as the tractor originally had, run wire "E" to the junction block and a jumper from the junction block to the spade on the switch that wire "E" was formerly connected to. I would suggest also, installing a fuse or circuit breaker in the system. I disconnected the orange wire from the solenoid, and installed the fuse there. You should have a 16 amp alternator, so use a 20 amp fuse or breaker. Pat

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SmilinSam
Thank you gentleman, looks like a plan to me. Got that solved, got the relocator kit for the filter ready , and have the driveshaft coupler problem solved. Now all I need to do is to make the riser plate to set the engine in the tractor at the right heighth. When I get done with a few things in the woodshop I'll get on that. Thanks, Sam

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HubbardRA
Aren't engine swaps fun? None of my four tractors has the original engine, and all required quite a bit of head scratching and cigarette smoking to get the whole situation figured out. Nothing ever fits rights, so we just have to fabricate the parts to make it work. But I love using these machines cause there is a little bit of me in all of them. Rod H.

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SmilinSam
One other thing, I would imagine that after putting a fuse or circuit breaker(which would you use??) in the line from the battery to the keyswitch, one would install the amp gauge then between the fuse/circuit breaker and the switch. Right?? Another cute idea I have is to tee off the low pressure fitting and install a oil pressure gauge. Whadda ya think of that? Will it fly? Sam

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PatRarick
Yes, I failed to mention that when I spoke about the system. The power wire that now goes to your ignition switch should go to the ammeter first, then to the accesory block or the switch, depending on how you want the block hooked up. I also failed to mention that your main power wire, wire "D", should be a 14 ga. wire. I would replace this with a 12 gauge wire. You may not need one that heavy, but it can't hurt. A 14 gauge wire should not have more than 15 amps running through it. A 12 gauge is good for 20 amps. I would use a circuit breaker. A little more expensive, but saves fuses if you have a problem. As to an oil pressure gauge, it will work fine. I installed one on a conversion I did on an 1855 Massey. It ran about 60 pounds cold, and 40 pounds hot. Considered putting one on my B-series, but there is not enough room on the dash. Pat

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