Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
thedaddycat

Want input on potential engine swap

Recommended Posts

thedaddycat
I'd like input on a potential engine swap for my 3310 V. I have an older Jacobsen with a Kohler K-301(12 HP?) that has an electric clutch for the PTO. Would it be worth the effort to swap it with the 10 HP B&S 243431 just for the extra 2 HP and clutch? I'm considering either selling the Jake outright or parting it out if I use the Kohler.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
It is an easy swap if both are the flat bottom type oil pans. You will have to re-do the throttle cable, fuel line, and you may have to make an adapter to hook up the driveshaft, I'm not sure. I made an adapter for a Cub Cadet engine which took some thinking, but if you have a problem get in touch with me, I have swapped several of these. Got a 14Hp Kohler on my 61 Wards. Rod H.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PatRarick
I would say that it depends on your preferance for engines, if you have a preferance. My personal opinion is that the Briggs will run smoother and quieter. On the other hand, the additional 2 horsepower should be beneficial, particularly with the Johnny Bucket. One thing that Rod did not mention in the changeover, is that you will have to change the ignition wiring as the Kohler has battery ignition. I think the engine base would be of more concern. I am not familiar with Jacobsen so I don't know which style of engine base they used. Pat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MikeES
The adaptors to connect a Kohler K engine to the simplicity drive shaft are still available. They all used the same adaptor and puts the connection of the drive shaft at the same place as the Briggs. Good Luck! Mike S.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Pat, I had a Cub Cadet 12Hp Kohler on the Wards for a while. Had to make some standoff mounts because of the drop type pan. Also had to make an adapter plate for the driveshaft, since the Cadet engine had four bolts on a very small circle. The 14HP that I have now, was bolted directly to the original holes in the frame. I used a driveshaft adapter off a 10 Hp Kohler from an AC 710. Seems that I always have to make some type of spacer to get the flexplates to line up right. I am now in the process of installing the 12 Hp Kohler (Cub Cadet Type) on a Sears Suburban that I am going to build a front end loader on. Rod H.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PeppyDan
If your Jacobsen is similar to my 1972 GT12, the oil pan is actually part of the frame(welded in with front axle fastened to it). It would then use the smaller or more square engine block as apposed to the more rectangluer block. I believe very early Jacobsens used a conventional frame/oil pan. Good Luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thedaddycat
I went out tonight and checked things over. The tractor is a Chief 1200, Ser.# 53088 7083. The engine is mounted to two frame rails that run back to the tranny and is not welded in. It has the flat bottom oil pan. The engine is a Kohler K301 Spec. 47238B Ser. 2044531 It runs good but I have to agree that it is louder than the Briggs I have now. I also have a better muffler on the Briggs, so that may be a big part of it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
I agree that the Briggs is smoother. I can see a big difference between a 10 Hp B/S and a 12Hp Kohler. Feels like more that 2 Hp when you are pushing them. I have battery ignition on both of mine, the B/S and the Kohler, so I guess You can wire the ignition to the accessories terminal of the existing switch, and run a jumper from the starter side of the solenoid to the ignition also, so that there will be power on the ignition in both on and start positions. This will allow you to use the existing switch which normally cuts off the accessories terminal during starting. This is similar to the way older cars would bypass the ballast resistor during starting. Rod H.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×