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spt1

Question regarding rusted gas tank

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spt1
The neighbor and I have been working diligently to try and get the tractors that we picked up running. One problem is that the tank on one of the garden tractors has scaly rust in the inside of the tank. It is solid otherwise. Is there any way to satisfactorily recondition this tank? I know that there is something called KREME and remember using that on my motor cycle tank years ago. Also remember that it was on the expensive side (about 40 bucks or so). Any suggestions?

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jackcobb
I have KREAME'd a few tanks over the years, mostly in old motorcycles as you mention with average results. Seems to work well for a few years, but then it can separate internally in a big sheet from the tank. I have read posts on putting marbles or round stones in the tank, and sloshing it around (I think one guy had a system that he fastened it to his tractor and bumped it around when he mowed) which somewhat "sandblasts" it from the inside. Many radiator shops have an acid system to clean it then coat it with a red coating that works good too. But my favorite is finding a good used tank! Probably everything but the stone/sloshing will cost you close to $40.

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MPH
Most favored method I've read about on this site is useing walnut shells inside the tank, strap it to the rear tire and go mow the lawn or someother useful deed. Been lucky enough so far not to need to try it so I can't personnal say for sure..MPH

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PatRarick
Haven't tried it yet, but considered walnut shells or steel shot and an old paint shaker. Anyone tried that? Depending on how bad it is, I have had pretty fair luck by replacing the outlet with a pipe plug, then dumping in a quart of "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner. Put a double layer of plastic wrap over the fill hole and screw on a gas cap. let this set in the tank, rolling the tank 1/4 turn every hour or so. After a day, empty the tank and flush it out with water. Blow the tank out with air to remove all the water you can, then spray the inside with WD-40. Still get a fine rust coating on the inside, but not enough that it seems to bother. Pat

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stumpy
Hiya, Here's the modified stone-in-the-tank methodology my neighbor used on the rusty old tank on his antique Ferguson: First, he flushed it completely...then took it to the self-service car wash and did the high-pressure spray thing (neither of us have a steam cleaner). Then, he found a whole bunch of round river cobbles just small enough to easily get in and out of the tank with minimal effort. We bungied/lashed the tank to the rear wheel of my JD 4440 (it's a big tank) while I was putting up the first cutting of hay, flipping it over every couple of hours. After about a dozen hours I was satisfied, but he wasn't. After flushing out the debris then accumulated, he heated the whole thing up carefully with a torch (carefully!), then strapped it back on my 4440 for a few more trips full of rocks. Supposedly the heat acted to "pop-off" more of the scaled rust. I do know that there was more crap flushed out after the second session of "rock-blasting." After flushing and drying the second time I thought it looked pretty good, but not my neighbor. He finished the job py pouring a bunch of enamel paint in the tank and spending the next hour periodically sloshing it around, then poured out the excess. The paint was some type of fuel-proof (ha ha ha), rustoleum/rust overcoat-type enamel. Can't remember the brand. This took place three months ago and the tractor is still working well. Can't say as I agreed with the rust-coating paint treatment, but he appears to be convinced. I wouldn't have done the last step. I think the rock-treatment, followed by a complete flushing is functional....then lay in a stock of $1.50 NAPA in-line fuel filters that are see-through and regularly change 'em. Good luck Bob "Stumpy" Hazelbrook

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Guest
go get a box of bb's and a quart of carb cleaner then plug off outlet and put a old fuel cap on then tarpstrap it to a rear wheel select a gear speed with wheel jacked up to where you hear bb's ramblin around for about 5 min then take it to car wash and spray until water comes out clean. keep full of gas as much as possible for awhile and install a "good" inline filter.this has worked for me many times.don't over do the spinning a good slow spin seems to work the best

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dtsr
quote:
Originally posted by bobmac: go get a box of bb's and a quart of carb cleaner then plug off outlet and put a old fuel cap on then tarpstrap it to a rear wheel select a gear speed with wheel jacked up to where you hear bb's ramblin around for about 5 min then take it to car wash and spray until water comes out clean. keep full of gas as much as possible for awhile and install a "good" inline filter.this has worked for me many times.don't over do the spinning a good slow spin seems to work the best
Hey bobmac, just tried this on a B-12 tank. It was really messed up inside, instead of bb's, I put a hand full of nuts and washers inside with the carb cleaner and shook it about every 30 minutes or so and let it set overnight and shook it some more the next day. Emptied it out and flushed it out with water and let it dry out. Not completely clean but sure looks a lot better and I am able to use it now. Thanks for the tip. dtsr

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      Good morning peeps! I’m always searching for helpful information with my AC collection. Hope to find out new information and pass on my own experience in restoration. Here are some pics of my babies. I’m still looking for front rims for the 410 so yesterday I put the 310 wheels on took it for a drive. Working pretty good but still needs some carb work. Gotta get the 310 running next. Have a great day!😁
       

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    • thedaddycat

      thedaddycat  »  SmilinSam

      It's in pretty sad shape, but yes I have a yellow plastic cap that I'm fairly certain is what you need. PM me your details and I'll get it out to you.
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