Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
Hoss

7116 problems

Recommended Posts

Hoss
I have been having some problems with a 7116 and I don't know what to do next. In April I had this 7116, single cylinder Briggs rebuilt. Bored .010 over, new carb [throttle shaft worn], the works. It worked fine all summer. A few weeks ago it would not start, head gasket was blown. I replaced the head gasket, but now can not get it to start. I have been through 4 starter gears in the process of trying to get it running. Got the starter rebuild, it didn't seem to have enough power to turn the engine over. No help there, still won't start and I need another starter gear. The engine keeps kicking back as if the timing is off or valves not working correctly. Big puff of white smoke, starter gear grinding sound on ring gear, dead battery, discussed mechanic What am I missing? Is my next step to take it to a professional?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JP
Hi Hoss, Have you checked to see if the keyway's not sheared? Did it over-rev or stop abruptly or ???? What does your flywheel gear look like? Is it on tight? When you had the head off, were the valves moving (not seized and closing ALL the way)? How's that for starters.......... 8-) JP

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Sounds like you have a hydraulic problem from either oil or fuel in the cylinder. Both are not compressible, so it will take lots of force to push the fluid out of the way. Oil is suspect because of white smoke. This could be the cause of starter failure. Easy check. Remove the plug and see if it cranks over easy. If there is oil or gas in the cylinder, it will blow out the sparkplug hole while cranking. If you find oil in the cylinder, check the crankcase breather to see if it is working. If you find gas, check the float. On some carbs, if the float leaks, the crankcase can fill with gasoline. This is tetectable by checking the dipstick. Too much oil usually means that gas has leaked into the crankcase. A full crankcase will also make it hard to turn. Rod H.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
spt1
I have a 7116 as well. Although my machine runs, It runs rough at times. My carb must need a rebuild becasue I can not get it to run like it used to. I have to keep the choke out about 1/4 inch otherwise it spits and sputters under load but then it clears up for a while. Nothing comes even close to the cut it gives though. Maybe this winter I will rebuild the carb. Hope you get your machone running! Good luck!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hoss
I excepted the inevitable, I took the engine out of the tractor to get on with the diagnose. The flywheel key had only some small marks on the sides where it looked like it was starting to shear but was not broken in any way. Could this have been enough to throw the timing off? I also took the breather off to check the valve springs, appears that the valves are working fine. I didn't want to take the head off, I just put the new gasket in. Could it be that the valve clearance changed once the engine has been broken in some? Any more suggestions? I sure could use some of Manards', cups of coffee right now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
jrichason
Does it turn over OK without the spark plug in? I'm not familiar with the process for replacing a head gasket, but it sounds like maybe your valve timing is off? Hope you figure it out. I have a 7116 also, so I would be interesed to find out what you come up with. Later, John Duct tape is like the Force. It has a light side and a dark side, and it holds the universe together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
charby5
Hi Hoss Ive had problems with 32 cube briggs head gaskets in the past..Im not saying that this is your problem, but its the only thing that comes to mind from the way you described. First..the gasket you used..was it genuine briggs or aftermarket?..If it is aftermarket.Since the ban of use of asbestos materials it seems that there are gaskets out there that are made of a silvery waxy like material that i found out you can't tightin to factory gasket specs...if you do tighten to factory specs it smashes the gasket down to far not allowing the proper clearances needed for the valves..Ive never tightened them down hard enough to do what yours is doing but ive had the valves hitting the bottom of the head before...making loud hammering noises when it ran..luckily not hurting anything i changed gasket again(same type of aftermarket gasket just didnt torq it as tight ) and has been working fine ever since.. hope this helps. Charby....... range apeel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • Todd 717
    • cdiggs
    • PhanDad
    • thedaddycat
  • Today's Birthdays

    1. briggsetc
      briggsetc
      (74 years old)
    2. PhanDad
      PhanDad
      (74 years old)
  • Recent Status Updates

    • Dean McFadden

      Dean McFadden

      Good morning peeps! I’m always searching for helpful information with my AC collection. Hope to find out new information and pass on my own experience in restoration. Here are some pics of my babies. I’m still looking for front rims for the 410 so yesterday I put the 310 wheels on took it for a drive. Working pretty good but still needs some carb work. Gotta get the 310 running next. Have a great day!😁
       

      · 1 reply
    • thedaddycat

      thedaddycat  »  SmilinSam

      It's in pretty sad shape, but yes I have a yellow plastic cap that I'm fairly certain is what you need. PM me your details and I'll get it out to you.
      · 0 replies
  • Adverts

×