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KSever

Starting a rebuilt engine?

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KSever
I have been doing a search for this topic, I know it's on here somewhere because I read it before. But anyway, how do you guys recommend running an engine for the first time after being rebuilt. Such as throttle setting and how long to run this engine? Thanks, Kris

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CleanBee
Hi Kris, I always told customers to be overly attentive to the engine during the break in. I guess with a tractor motor, I would idle it for the first few moments to make sure it doesnt blow up. LOL. I always had my hand close to the kill switch just in case something went array. Then I would run at mid throttle without a load for an hour or so. After that I would change the oil and put it into light service. Probably would make sure I ran it at full throttle some to let the piston rings cure on the full length of the cylinder wall and I probably wouldn't over load the motor until it has at least 10 hours on it. Don't be surprised if it smokes a little upon break in, that is common until the rings cure. By the way, I hope you used rebuilding lube on all the moving parts prior to putting it together. I use to use STP if I didnt have the red goop. Have fun, I love listening to a motor I just built. Even better when its a 355. Dan

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KSever
IT RUN'S !!! Worked on getting it back together last night till 2am. It was real hard to wait till morning to start this thing up. Started right up and ran good with no smoke, ran for about 1/2 hour at mid throttle. After about 25 minutes I noticed a chirping sound in the engine. When I shut it off and let it cool down I rechecked the torque on the head bolts and found them to be a little loose. I had torqued these to specs out of the book before, but you know the rule expand and contract I guess. So I retorqued them and no more chirp. I knew the noise because of a previous tractor I had did the same thing. Now I just have to put the rest of the tractor back together (grill, hood, and lights, almost forgot seat too).. Thanks for your input Dan. Kris

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powerking_one
Kris, I'd be a little/somewhat concerned that retorque'ing the headbolts stopped the leaking of the head gasket. I would suspect the head's gasket surface is not truely flat and/or warped. Did you check it for flatness on a sheet of glass with a feeler gauge before installing it? I generally "test" mill the eninge's head with wet/dry 320 grit paper & water just to see the trueness of the gasket surface; then continue milling as needed. Let's face it, on a new engine the head is torqued to spec or +10-15% over and the mfg doesn't say anything in the owners manual to retorque it a few hours after beak-in or returning it to the dealer for such service. Huhmmm, Tom(PK)

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