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learning the greasy way...


Dadsy98

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Well, I found this 7010 back in June this year. The engine was trash... the owner never checked the oil. I bought it. I was thinking a replacement motor and some detailing would give me a dandy second tractor. The engine prices on Ebay are outrageous ! Okay, so I'm cheap. anyway, I found a kohler 10hp for it. This engine was missing the starter, points, coil, regulator. I was naive from the beginning thinking this would be a simple job. The original engine had a high mount starter the new engine needed a low mount. So, I swapped out the flywheel housing to accomodate the starter I had. Changed out the grass screen to allow for the drive shaft adapter. The oil drain plug was 180 degrees off so I bought a new gasket and remounted the sump. The drain plug still interferes with the tractor frame. I am leaning towards pulling the sump pan and loctiting a reducer to it, then, cut the reducer flush to the pan... The carb was totally gunked up solid, between the two I had I managed to get the engine to start. Now I find the regulator/ rectifier is shot. A call to a kohler dealer about knocked me down ! $$$239.00 . If I had the time I would build one from scratch. All you need is a diode bridge and a regulator circuit for 14- 15 volts at 15A . I have found 15A units for as low as $40.00, I think one of these would work just fine. I haven't fastened the drive shaft up yet because of the oil drain problem, and, depending on the regulator, I haven't given much thought to the mounting of the regulator. I think I'm still at least a month away from having to figure out the belt routing for the snow blower. Still learning, learning, learning !! Steve
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WOW what a mess huh?How much cheaper was that kohler than the Briggs know?After all the work,and parts ect. you probably could buy 2 Briggs LOL.That would take the fun out of it though. mowerman1193 BTW you must have my luck LOL
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I found the kohler at a yard sale. Had a tag on it- $ 50.00. I couldn't pass it up. The 7010 originally had a kohler so I thought the easy way would be just get another one just like it. The engine runs great, no smoke. I just didn't expect there to be any problems installing it. A briggs would be cheaper, true. I think a kohler properly cared for should last a lifetime. Steve
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You must be talking about the large 3/4" drain plug that came with some cast Kohler oil pans. This is what was on my 18hp (came out of a Jacobson) that I installed in my 712 pulling tractor (same frame as your 7010). Putting in an internal reducer will not allow the oil to completely drain from the pan, leaving the sludge and metal behind. An external reducer will still interfere (been there, tried that). You can either hog out the frame for the larger plug or what I did was drill and tap the other end of the oil pan. Also there is a hole in the frame that would allow you to drill and tap a drain in the bottom of the oil pan. How about the oil pan from the original 10hp? Good Luck! Mike S.
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I rigged my own charging system a few years back on a 16 Hp Kohler. The alternator was a 15 amp unit. I used a 25 amp bridge rectifier and a voltage regulator from a starter-generator tractor that I had junked. It worked great with absolutely no problems. I'd guess that you could find a generator type voltage regulator from someplace like Tractor Supply for $35 to $50. You might want to check around. Rod H.
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when I picked up the tractor, the engine was apart and the pieces in a carboard box. It sure looked like everything was in there but later I couldn't find the oil pan. The reducer idea does have it's drawbacks. But, Great Minds Think Alike !! I am considering a 1/2-14 tapped hole on the other side and turn the pan around again. Also missing from the parts box is the rectifier/regulator. Hmmm, a simplicity dealer did the teardown. A few pieces missing... coincidence? I think I'll go with a regulator from TSC. As you said Ron, they're only around $35.00 or so. I certainly don't want to pay as much for the regulator as I did for the whole tractor! Steve
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