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ChuckinVa

Single Point hitch and Lift 7116

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ChuckinVa
I have a Simplicity 7116 that I would like to use with a 10" Brinley plow that I have purchased. The 7116 does not have a sleeve hitch or the rear lift assembly. That being said I am trying to find a way to make it work with what I have. I have purchased a sleeve hitch from another manufacturer and have successfully modified it to fit where the leaf collection system normally rests. This height appears to be fine for the position of the plow. I now need to fabricate something that will allow me to lift the plow at the end of a row. I have searched this site and found the available information on the rear lift group. I am wondering if any one could post a detailed discription and clear photo of what the rear lift group looks like and how it operates with the plow so I can try and make it work with my set up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Chuck ChuckinVA

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UCD
Chuck All of the components for a Brinly or one point hitch or sleeve hitch are available from your Simplicity dealer. Just not available under one part#. Do a search as I had posted all of the part #'s and prices in a previous thread. Anything free is worth what you pay for it This & $1.00 might get you a small Coffee Maynard aka/UCD

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HubbardRA
Chuck, I have an AC 716H (same as a 7016H). I have a rear lift on it that I removed from my 61 Wards. With a little lift rod modification it works great. I live in Fredericksburg VA. If you would like to make a little trip to my house, I could show you what it takes to make the lift. Email me if you want to get together. Rod H.

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johnmonkey
Rod, I would like to know if all you need to do is make a longer shaft for the lift? I have the parts to make a lift for my 1963 gardenmark but I'm not sure if I need a cable or a longer lift rod for my 1978 AC 710 (using the old parts). Thanks John H

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HubbardRA
John, The cable is for lifting the mower. I have a cable from a 710 on my 716H. You also need the pulley for the cable to go over. For the rear lift I used the one from my Wards. The lift rod had to be bent in an "S" shape to bypass the actuator mechanism for the hydro, and yet go through the correct area of the frame at the BGB attachment point. The rod is about 4 inches too short. I used a piece of flat bar. Drilled a hole in each end. One end attaches to the rod, and the other to the lift arm under the tractor. Didn't need to weld to the rod. This crude fix works. By the way, are you still looking for a carb for a B/S? I have one from a 10 Hp that I will give you if you still need one. Rod H.

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ChuckinVa
Thanks Dutch, UCD and Rod, Dutch, For me, a picture is worth a thousand words. the installation instructions will be a big help. UCD, I'll look for the thread. I thought I had searched the site pretty well. I had been told by the Simplicity rep for our area that the parts were not available. One dealer in Lynchburg, Va had indicated he had the lift kit in stock but wanted $165.00 for it and I can buy a new single bottom plow for my compact tractor for $175.00 so i was looking for another answer. I think I have the hitch worked out. I just need to get the lift engineered. Rod, I may take you up on the offer. The 7116 is in WV right now and I will be bringing it back to Charlottesville in a few weeks for the winter. Thanks for the offer. ChuckinVA

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UCD
Chuck Brand new Brinly hitch [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=6929[/url] Anything free is worth what you pay for it This & $1.00 might get you a small Coffee Maynard aka/UCD

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ChuckinVa
Thanks UCD, I had found it just a few minutes ago. I was not searching the forum correctly apparently... I may have prematurely had some parts machined. I thought based on the height of the plow that I could use the mount that is on the tractor for the leaf collection system and I had a collar made to fit the 5/8" rod that came on the hitch I picked up. It lines up fine. But I haven't tried to pull the plow with it yet. Looking at the drawings and tech pubs it looks like the sleeve hitch mounts down lower and that seem like it will be too low for the height of the plow. Thanks for your help. I need to mull this over a little. CHUCK ChuckinVA

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UCD
Chuck The hitch mounts in the bottom holes on the tractor frame when the plow is connected to it it is at the rite heigth. The plow when plowing will be below the level of the tractor. with one rear wheel jack up the same amount as the depth of the cut the plow share should be sitting level on the ground. Dutch did a post on setting up a plow. Anything free is worth what you pay for it This & $1.00 might get you a small Coffee Maynard aka/UCD

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johnmonkey
Rod thanks for the help. Did you use your old lift rod from the garednmark and extend that with a flat bar? or did you use a long length of flat bar bent in the s shape? I want to use my new implements on my '78 AC 710 but I also want to use them on my '63 gardenmark. Thanks for the carb offer but I ended up buying the '74 homelite and it had a good carb. I want to use all the parts for the 3410 and get it running and give it to my brother. John H

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HubbardRA
John, I bent the original rod, then added the extension underneath the chassis. You will need a round rod to go through the only hole in the frame that lines up with the lift. I see no reason why you could not make one from a piece of half inch rod and fabricate your own end attachments. You could also reproduce the rear lift with the sleeve with a rod some tubing and some flat stock. I think I would use the older one as a pattern and fabricate the whole lift group for the 710. All you need is a welder, and you have that. That way you don't have to swap these parts between tractors. There was a post a couple months back where someone fabricated his own lift mechanism, patterned from the original. I have a paper copy of the picture, but can't find the exact link. Rod H.

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Dutch
Rod, Don't know. Never tried it. But, I'm far from a sod buster expert. I'm just a novice who started a year ago with the help of club members. I do know that the coulter does a good job cutting the sod and roots, and "seems" to keep the plow running straight. Once the land is "broken" for the first time with the plow, a tiller seems to be the way to go in future years. Maybe I'm wrong there too. After spending hours using a plow, disc, and tiller, then buying plants, and weeding, only to loose the garden because of the drought, I think my best bet is the market.

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HubbardRA
My grandpa always did the turn plowing (bottom plow) in the fall. Let the freezing and thawing of the winter break up the soil. Then he did the tilling in the spring. In the clay soil where we lived, this made for a much more uniform soil consistency with many less clods. Currently the only planting that I may do is flower beds for my wife. Use of this plow would only be required in hard packed areas. I may use it for drainage ditches, or the first cut when burying an electrical cable. If I thought a 716 would pull it, I would make a cable burying plow. A variation of a chisel plow. What do you think? You know the kind that burys the cable as it goes through the ground. May not be able to go deep enough to meet local codes. Rod H.

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Dutch
Rod, I was thinking of adapting or making a vibratory plow when I wanted to bury irrigation piping. Didn't, so I did an open trench with the land plow. Worked out well with a minimal amount of hand work. Check with a local irrigation supply house. They sell plow knives and chinese fingers. Then all you'd have to do is figure out how to make it vibrate. An old vibratory compactor may work, or even a modified sickle mechanism.

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PatRarick
Chuck, The rolling coulter (sod cutter disc) is not required. In fact, sometimes it is more trouble than what it's worth. You do not get as clean a furrow without it, though. When I plow a lot of trash (uncomposted leaves, grass clippings, etc.), it collects between the coulter and moldboard and carries the plow up above the ground. Many times we removed them from the plows in the field as there was too much straw to go between. Had a neighbor plug his so tightly one fall that he drug the plow onto the turned soil and burned the straw out. Pat

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ChuckinVa
Dutch, Thanks for the great pictures. Makes it easier for me to understand the operation. Is your rear lift original or something you fabricated ? I printed out the rear lift drawings from the forum and yesterday I went and bought what I could find to put it together. I don't weld or know anybody who does so I'm going to have to find a patient machine shop person to walk through it with me. I have a pretty good concept of what has to happen. Your lift looks like the one you gave me the link to so I presume it is original. thanks again for your help. ChuckinVA

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HubbardRA
Chuck, Get your tractor home, buy the metal and come over to my house, I have a welder and will help you make the hitch. Dutch, A friend of mine has a chisel plow on a beam similar to that of the bottom plow. He welded a couple of loops on the back of the beam and has used it to install underground electric lines. The cable feeds down the beam and plays out behind the plow point. The chisel point is about 1.5 inches wide. No vibration for this setup. Water pipe may be too large for a setup of this type. Rod H.

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Dutch
Rod, When I think of "pulling" wire or pipe, I'm thinking of "slicing" the ground so you can't even tell work has been done. I can't imagine doing that (to any depth) without a vibratory unit. But then again, I've never tried it. Maybe the pro contractors could learn something. I did use my plow to install a sprinkler system without making too much of a mess.

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Dutch
Jim, That's a hitch I made. The photo was taken last year before I bought your 710 & hitch. BTW - I tuned up the 710, went over all adjustments, got the clutch working, replaced the BGB cross shaft, bearings & seals, installed a cone clutch, and bought a tiller. That is a great machine, but my brother has NOT used it yet.

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HubbardRA
Dutch, I don't currently have power in my garage. Been using extension cords from the house both for lights and the welder. I've been thinking of doing exactly whet you did with my plow. I'm going to put the underground cable inside 2 inch plastic water pipe that I already have. Glad to see that the plow works so well for digging the ditch. My friend, who laid the electric cable, pulled the plow with his Kubota 4WD tractor. He said he was able to get it about 18 inches deep. I saw the results and there was only a slit in the ground. There was no hole to fill in. If you are going to a 3 foot depth vibration will definitely be required. The vibration makes the plow go through the ground better and allows more depth without putting so much load on the tractor. I totally agree with you on this fact. I was just saying that you can go to a shorter depth without it. He says that if you attach a metal tube (to feed the pipe through) to the beam of the plow, using the small chisel point, you could probably make two or three passes to get the depth before feeding any plastic pipe, then on the final pass feed the pipe. He says he is almost sure you could do a 1 inch plastic pipe to 18 inches of depth with his method. I share an office with him, so I asked him. A chisel plow resembles a wood splitting wedge with the sharpened edge set horizontal. It is on the bottom of a 6 inch tall tapered 1 inch thick plate that attaches to the beam of a plow like yours. The beam should be set vertical (when viewed from the rear) for this cut. The tube would be a "u" or "j" shape that allows the pipe to be fed from the top above ground with the other end exiting to the rear behind the plow. Anyway, my friend Dennis says it will work. Rod H.

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