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jmarkb

Replacing Ignition Key Switch

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jmarkb
I need to replace the key ignition switch with a non-keyed switch on a Broadmoor 6116. Does anyone have any advice on how to go about this. Can I pick up an ignition switch at an auto parts store and just swap them out? Or is it more complicated? Mark Balding

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HubbardRA
Are you wanting to replace the key switch with a toggle or rocker switch for some reason? Or is it that you want a keyed switch to replace one that someone has rigged up? Get back with me and I'll try to help you out. Rod H.

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jmarkb
Thanks for your response. Yes, I wish to replace a key ignition with a rocker/toggle switch, thus eliminating the key. The current switch is broken, so while I am replacing it, would like to eliminate the key. Thanks Mark Mark Balding

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HubbardRA
I think the Broadmoor has a magneto ignition. If so, then you need a double pole, double throw switch. One pole is used to energise power to the lights and starter in the fully up position. The other pole would be connected to ground to short the ignition when shutting down the engine in the fully down position. In the center position the engine would run, once started, but all other power would be disconnected. You would need an additional pushbutton for the starter if you have one that will be used to energize the startersoleniod when the toggle switch is flipped to fully up position. Rod H.

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Woodydel
I don't think it's worth the effort nor advisable to replace the ignition switch with a toggle. If you have any kids (yours or relatives) around it's better to have the key ignition. Imagine, kid starts tractor and cuts off toes with mower deck, or worse.

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Al
Hi, You would need to switch the charging system on and off also. I agree with the key switch. It may not be what you like, but if you change it and the somebody"s kids come over and get on it when it is setting around and get hurt, it could expose you to some liability. A tractor setting around can be considered an attractive nuisance, like an unfenced swimming poo. We were told in Service school about a dealer that had a JD tractor in the shop and the seat switch was disabled. He would not let it go out with out fixing it. Customer demanded it not be fixed. Customer wrote out instructions that he had changed it and ordered the dealer not to fix it and he understoood the risk. About 3 weeks later the neighbor borrowed the tractor and his 12 yr old son got off to pick up an item. Stuck foot in the mower getting back on. Lawsuit went back to dealer in addition to homeowner. Huge award to neighbor. Court ruled dealer was negligent, because he is "THE EXPERT" and "AS SUCH" it is his "RESPONSIBILITY" to "PROTECT" the customer from himself. Because of this he should never have let the tractor out of the shop without fixing the seat switch. Award exceeded the dealer Liability coverage and wiped him out. Pretty scary, think about the guys fixing mowers for pay, with no insurance. Any way I just wanted to point out even if these things are rather rare they can happen. Al Eden

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HubbardRA
I have one that we used for tractor pulling that I used a toggle for the ignition. I actually used a 4 pole which I had in the garage. I think I used 3 of them because of the chargine system as Al said. This one has a safety kill plug that is chained to the sled when pulling. I remove this safety plug to prevent anyone from messing with it. When I re-install the plug, then the toggle ignition is again functional. The plug is in the main power feed. Rod H.

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hufhouse
I just replaced the ignition switch on my 7117. You can see the info at a post here within the last week. Considering the fact that it was very simple and cheap (about $21), I can't see why you would want to go to all the trouble of installing multiple complex switches while exposing yourself and others to potential bodily harm. Just a piece of advice. If you have to replace the plug that goes into the switch, keep the old plug with just a little wire sticking out. Make yourself a color chart of how you are going to solder together the new wires to the old wires. The colors may not match up at all...mine didn't. I just soldered new to old, then used that heat shrink tubing over each solder. Just to feel a little safer, I taped everything up really well with a high quality electrical tape. The whole repair took me (a real amateur) a couple of hours including replacing the headlight switch, cleaning everything up really well, replacing the spark plugs, changing the oil and greasing all the fittings.

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thedaddycat
I replaced all the wiring on my 3310 with harnesses I made up myself. The starter switch is an Allen-Bradley switch that was connected to the two large terminals of the solenoid(which didn't work). It was acting as the solenoid. I have since replaced the solenoid, but could hook up the A-B switch to the starter directly again. There is nothing on the tractor that I don't need to make it work. If I'm not mistaken, the older tractors(700, 725) starter buttons and wiring are this way. No safety switches, interlocks, etc. The key switch is only one wire for grounding the ignition to shut off the engine. In fact, I don't even have a kill switch on the tractor. I just use the one on the engine, but have to open the hood every time I want to shut it down.

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