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SIMPLICITY 12 HORSE

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Guest
Engine won`t crank.Battery,seat switch, pto switch, nuetral switch all good. Silenoid is good also.Could it be the interlock module or is there somthing else wrong? GR

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UCD
What model is it? What condition is your battery in? Have you cleaned battery posts and all other connections? How did you test safty locks, solenoid? Anything free is worth what you pay for it This & $1.00 might get you a small Coffee Maynard aka/UCD

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Guest
quote:
Originally posted by UCD: What model is it? What condition is your battery in? Have you cleaned battery posts and all other connections? How did you test safty locks, solenoid? Anything free is worth what you pay for it This & $1.00 might get you a small Coffee Maynard aka/UCD
GR

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Guest
LT 12.5 I did the test`s following the instruction from the manual.I also hook up a new battery to it but did not help.I have cleaned the post`s. GR

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Dutch
Interlock module should be disconnected BEFORE testing starting circuit. Some interlock modules can be destroyed by using a VOM. Have you tried testing the starter circuit with the interlock module bypassed?

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powerking_one
Modern digital volt-ohm meters (DVM's) have a very high ~~10mega-ohm + input impedance. In leau of that, it's vurtually impossible to damage anything or component in a garden tractor/engine/ignition/charging system electronic device. Tom(PK)

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Dutch
Tom,
quote:
Modern digital volt-ohm meters (DVM's) have a very high ~~10mega-ohm + input impedance. In leau of that, it's vurtually impossible to damage anything or component in a garden tractor/engine/ignition/charging system electronic device.
"Modern" is a relative term, especially with guys who own tractors over 40 years old. The Simplicity manual CAUTIONS and WARNS against testing solid state interlocks with a VOM. Some members may not have your level of electronic expertise. Perhaps it would be a good idea if you explained how members can tell if they are using a “modern” DVM as opposed to an “older” DVM or an analog VOM, and how to determine input impedance.

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KenK
If the battery is good try jumping the to large posts on the solenoid. This will be a direct cross from the battery to the starter. I have also found quite frequently that the starter gear will get wedged up in the ring gear. If this happens try turning the engine backwards by hand to release the gear. Hope this helps a little.

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HubbardRA
Like KenK said, the starter may be your problem. I have a B/S 14 Hp Vanguard. Hit the starter one day and nothing happened. Did some checking and found a wedged starter gear. Got it loose, hit starter and it wedged again. Turns out that there was a plastic spacer and shock absorber mounted over the gear retaining pin. This had broken letting the gear go too far on the shaft and wedge. I removed the broken part, removed the retaining pin, aligned the starter gear with the flywheel gear to the point where it should run during engagement, then shimmed the space between the gear and the retaining pin with washers. It has worked great ever since. Rod H.

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JeffNemes
You did not mention the ignition switch or if you actually had any voltage to any of the safety switches or ignition switch. Yes it could be the module if everything else checks out.

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Guest
KenK was right.It was the starter gear.I turned engine by hand which broke it free.Then it started right up,after that though the gear just spun.It turns out the teeth were reall y worn out.Got a new gear on it now and everything seems fine now.Thanks everybody.Especially KenK. GR

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