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thedaddycat

Frame up restoration 2012

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thedaddycat
I got the Landlord frame stripped down to where it's only one part with nothing attached at all. I will be using this as a replacement for the cut-and -welded frame from the 2012. It took the torch to get the ends off the lift shaft so I'll be painting the frame. Here's the start of a "frame up" restoration.... enjoy the show.

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powerking_one
Kirk, Your endevour is sort of like mine. While I'm not doing a frame up restoration, it is still a front-to-back full mechanical restoration with mods and improvements along the way. To date, the biggest time sink has been the front end, front wheels, and steering system. Ideal paint weather conditions are fast disappearing (only those items with bare metal). I'll post pics of the lastest mod which was to use Torrington needle thrust washers under each axel spindle. You are definately working fast and on a mission! Tom(PK)

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HubbardRA
It is interesting to see that frame. My 61 Wards is similar. I had problems when I installed a larger engine, because the shroud hit the frame. I see that section is removed on this frame to give the necessary shroud clearance. Much better than taking a hammer to the shroud and putting spacers under the engine. Rod H.

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thedaddycat
Sherman, set the Way-back Machine for 1967...... This is the belly of the frame under the foot rest bracket. About the only place on the frame that there was any repainting done was on the sides. The putty knife took most of it off. I used rubbing compound to get it back to the factory color. The paint is in good enough condition that I'll just give it a light coat once the rough spots are taken care of. The front axle shows minimal wear on the base of the Y pivot so I'll use this one. Other frame mounted components ready for cleaning. As with the donor frame, this lift shaft doesn't want to come apart. I'll look into getting a hydraulic lift unit and then I won't need the lift lever. The other tractor's steering parts are in better shape, this one has a lot of wear on the three or four center teeth. I think this tractor was used as a mower most of it's life. It has the running gear for a sickle bar mower, most of the gunk filling the frame was shreaded plant matter, and the steering sector wear indicates lots of small corrections to a more or less straight line of travel.

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roma3112
daddycat Good luck with your project, i had a tip for you as far as paint removal goes. In my case when i rehabed an old 4211 i found some really hard to reach places for wire wheel or sandpaper. Wandering around the big box store i came across a chemical paint stripper in a can. I bought a sample and tryied it out, it worked really well. just a thought as i look through your pictures

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HubbardRA
Kirk, Do you want to sell the pulley for the sickle bar? I have a sickle bar that I will be getting soon, but do not have this piece. Having the factory piece is much better than making one. Rod H.

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thedaddycat
I'd be willing to send it to you so you can fabricate one, as long as you guarantee its safe return. If someone's good at making fabrication drawings and would like to do that to share with the club that would be fine too. Since I'm restoring this tractor I will be reusing the sickle bar components when it goes back together. I too have a sickle bar, currently mounted on a 725, that will probably end up on this tractor. While this tractor may not have been so great at first glance, all the little "detail" items on it are what tipped my decision in the "restore" direction instead of the "part it out" mode. I've already had three offers for various things off it. The funny thing is that the tractor will be the cheapest part of the finished unit. The Hi-Lo pulley that I'll put on it was more than twice the cost, and the hydraulic lift is sure to be pricey, too.

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Roy
Kirk, Could I talk you into tracing the engine shroud cutout hole in the frame plus get some dimensions to locate it in the frame? Some day I will make a hole like that in my B-1 so I can put a larger engine in it. Thanks,

Roy

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HubbardRA
Roy, I am running a 14 Hp Kohler on the 61 Wards without a cutout. The cutout would have helped, but it can be done without it. I had interference even with a 10 Hp B/S. Rod H.

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thedaddycat
Roy, it's in the mailbox and the flag's up. You should have it in a few days. OK then, on with the show.... How do you hold the shaft so you can get the pulley nut off? This is how I did it. The input shaft keyway is pretty bad, and that's being generous. If you look close you can see the cresent shaped end of it between the jaws of the pipe wrench, which I had no qualms about using on this shaft. This is the right side pulley from the BGB. The washer and nut hold the first section onto the BGB shaft. The second ring is the other half of the transmission belt pulley. Next comes the plate, second belt pulley, and last the rope cup. There is a thin plastic ring around the first section that the second section(ring) fits over, almost like a really thin bushing. This stub of a bracket was still attached to the tranny plate. Does anyone know what it's for? Everything here except the transmission has been taken apart and cleaned in the parts washer, sandblasted (except for the BGB parts), recleaned and painted. One more night shift to go, then I can start bolting things back up.

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CleanBee
Hi Kirk, Looking good. The broken part your pointing to was originally the drive belt guard to keep the belt curved off the drive pully when the clutch is pressed. I do not beleive there should be a washer with the nut to hold on the first section of the pully. This should be the lock nut alone. Also, there should be two fiber washers, one is a disk the size of the flat metal plate, and the other fits the inside of the diameter of the second outer pully piece. Its always neat to see these tractors being brought back to life. Dan

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thedaddycat
I spoke too soon about painting that batch of parts, I was thinking of another pic that I was going to post of frame mounted parts. But...... I noticed that when I looked up the 2012 on the site search that there were pics showing the BGB, plates, linkages and tranny are black in some shots and orange in others. Does anyone have one that hasn't been painted over or can you tell me which color it's supposed to be? At $10 a can for Simplicity paint I kind of hope it's black. When sandblasting the parts it looked like most had a layer of black as a base coat, but I want to get it right the first time. Speaking of painting here's how I'm doing mine. I take the parts in to work and clean them in the parts washer, then sandbalst and re-clean them. Once they're down to bare metal I hang them up by wire under one of the boilers that's on line. Ambient temp is around 100-110 F I would guess. I let the parts warm up for a while then shoot a first (light) coat and hang them back up. It's dry in an hour or less but I let it cure for 4-6 hours before the second coat goes on. That coat hangs overnight(overday?) and "bakes" on for at least 12 hours before I come back in. It seems to work out pretty well, almost looks powder coated when done. What do you think?

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RenegadeJ
Daddycat...I bought a Simplicity 3112 new in 1969 and it still runs a good as the day I bought it. The trannsmission and bevel gear box were black as was all the running gear, side plates etc. Sure nice to see someone beside myself restoring these old tractors. Good luck.

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arjr111
Daddycat, looks like you are attending to details and doing an A-1, prep & paint job. I'm sure its going to reflect nicely in the finished project... My typical paint jobs, entail aiming the spray can and pushing lightly on the top button.......sometimes, I shake the can first to get a smoother spray....but I sure do appreciate seeing it done right., and someday I'm gonna try it...Art

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Roy
Kirk, I like the way you "oven bake" your painted parts. They look good. Thank you for making a tracing and getting it in the mail to me. Do I need to reimburse you for postage and/or time? Does anyone know if the hole in the frame for the engine shroud is "factory" or a modification to stuff a larger engine in?

Roy

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powerking_one
Kirk, Tranny side plates, BGB, and transmission are all black (supposed to be) on my Landlord 2110. I think the 2010/2012 generation was the first to use the forementioned paint scheme. Must be nice to be able to paint one's toys at work! (LOL). I was going to say, with the recent cold snap in the Northeast, that outdoor paint conditions aren't exactly ideal. Nice work-around. Tom(PK)

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thedaddycat
Roy, I think the market price for scrap paper is something like 8 bucks a hundred (pounds), you figure out the cost on an ounce or two if you really want to...... lol The shroud clearance cut out is there on both this 2012's frame and the replacement unwelded frame I'm using for this project. It is the frame from a parts Landlord that had the 9 HP Briggs I have that is painted black over the original yellow. I am still undecided about putting the Landlord together, the 2012 was going to be a parts source for the Landlord before I decided to restore it instead. I'm an operator in a power plant, so I have about 3 hours of work to do on a 12 hour shift unless something comes up...... In the last four nights(48 hours) I must have spent 25 or 30 hours playing with parts and paint. My goal is to have just about everything that can be taken apart disassembled and cleaned and painted(except the engine and tranny). OK, I'm not going to remove things like set screws or grease nipples, or press out bearings, bushings or seals unless I plan on replacing them. But since this is supposed to be a "frame up" project, I figure that most everything should be taken apart for cleaning at the least.

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HubbardRA
Roy, On my wards frame, even a 10 Hp B/S will interfere with the frame. The 7.25 sat on .25 inch spacer plates. The 10 Hp had the crankshaft higher, so the plates were unwanted if the driveshaft was to run at the right angle. I actually flattened the shroud with a hammer to make it fit. I am sure that the cutout is necessary with the 12Hp B/S that came on these machines. With the 14 Hp Kohler on my machine now, I had to raise the engine and run more driveshaft angle than it originally had. With the flex plates instead of the rattle joints, I don't think that will be a problem. Rod H.

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thedaddycat
When we last left our story, our hero was busy cleaning and painting on company time...... lol Here are more parts and the frame fresh from the boilerhouse paint shop. I will be starting the reassembly tonight. The lift arm is ready to go back together. I decided to paint the thumb button black since most of the finish(galvanized?) on it was now a light coat of rust(patina if you prefer) but I didn't think cold galvanize spray would look right. I painted the spring and spring stop collar for corrosion protection. Since they go inside the handle nobody will see them anyhow. This is the BGB input shaft. I told you "pretty bad" was being generous.... I will replace the shaft and seals. The bearings seem to be OK, but if they're not too expensive I'll replace them too. I pressed everything out of the BGB before I painted it, knowing that at least this shaft had to go.

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Roy
Kirk, You know you have it made! Most of us have to work at work. I even get calls at night and weekends. I do appreciate your help. Thanks. Rod and Mike, Looks like one of these days my B-1 is going to get a "frame cutout" for bigger engine clearance. I like the idea of the cutout since it eliminates having to raise the engine center line and everything should fit "like stock" without other modifications. I have an 11 hp B & S generator engine that has a tapered shaft and a different bolt mounting pattern. Since I do not use any front drive attachments the tapered shaft doesn't bother me. Maybe I can use an oil pan from a "stock" engine to retain the stock mounting bolt pattern? Thanks to all,

Roy

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KSever
Kirk, Just a small detail, and I had to say something because I see this painting of the thumb button alot. The thumb button is easily cleaned up. By laying a piece of wet/dry 220 sand paper on the bench and while keeping it wet. Rubbing the thumb button on this sandpaper will bring it back to the shiny life it once had. I tried a few ways to clean this up and found this one to be the best, I just didn't like the way mine looked after I got my tractor back together with all the other shiny chrome. Just my thoughts, Kris

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