Points

[arjr111]

I am not familiar with the two old briggs engines I picked up for my Big Ten, project. The 10hp engine (Model # 243431 Type 2520 01, on the left) that I plan to use, has no points & plunger on the block like the 12hp has. What's up with that?...Art

[KohlerMan]

Thats a little strange. Does the left one have a coil by the fly wheel??? If it does, you dont need points. You might check the red ones cam shaft and see if it has a little mound on it for the plunger --------if it does, i think you could bore a hole (if it has the right mounting holes:) Any way, these are a few things you can try. if you want to ask me more you can email me: j_m_shafer@hotmail.com John

[Kent]

Art, It means it came with the Magnetron ignition, and doesn't use points... Kent The foot-draggin' Clubhouse Custodian...

[arjr111]

Thanks guys......Art

[HubbardRA]

My 243431 has the points like your 12 Hp. I would say it is possible to convert to points if for some reason you needed to. If the magnetron ignition is working, why would you want to? I converted mine to battery ignition, but that was because of a dead magneto. Rod H.

[thedaddycat]

My 3310 has the 10 hp Briggs, 243431 2580-01 8506261. It was rebuilt with a short block in the mid 80s and has no points either. The coil mounts close to the flywheel and when the magnet on the flywheel passes the coil, the moving magnetic field induces voltage for your spark. There is a small wire that goes to the grounding block mounted near the carb and mine also has a kill switch on the shroud. The ground wire from the ignition switch also attaches to the grounding block and grounds the coil to stop the engine.

[arjr111]

Thanks again, I figured it was the Magnetron ignition, that I have been reading about on the site. But, this is the first time, I have actually come across one. Have ordered the manual to familiarize myself with these older briggs...thanks..Art

[roma3112]

arj your 10 hp is vv similar to the 12hp 300421 in my 3112h, a ways back i replaced the coil in my 300421 with a magnetron set-up. I didnot have the flywheel repolorized and had nothing but trouble with the unit. Not only would it need to spin faster for the magnetron to work properly, but because the flywheel was not repolorized it would backfire and not run smoothly. What i would suggest is that if it works after you put it all together leave in the magnetron. it is a good upgrade i think. if you have mysterious backfireing (and all other causes are ruled out) look into the agnetron. I bit the bullet and removed the engine in my 3112h reinstalled the plunger points new coil ect. and it works Beautiful man 1/2 a crank on the key a lil choke and pow off she goes. I know for a fact there are posts on magnetron try keying in repolorize into the search and give it a try john b

[roma3112]

arj 1 more thing i saw in your post that you were not too familliar with the old cast iron series, i noticed from your pic that the red engine has the rear crank cover removed. When you reinstall the cover there i s a timing procedure that neede to be followed to time the "syncrobalancer" properly. if i can scan in that page i will post it if you need it just let me know. Oh also i found that my 12hp was very sensitive as far as having the flywheel nut torqued properly, untill i had it right i was shearing keys left and right. hope my babbling helps good luck john

[arjr111]

Thanks John, that crank cover did not come with the engine but Ron-B is trying to get one for it. Once, I get it, I will need to study the correct installation procedure......Art