Which is the right 2012 differential hub?

[thedaddycat]

I printed out the entire manual for the Landlord Series Riding Tractors from Simplicity Tech Pubs rather than to keep going online to see it and found something that brings up a question. In the section on the differential there is the following : NOTE: The following is NOT applicable to the Landlord 2010 Models or Landlord 2012 Models. Below the note is the procedure for adjusting the traction control capscrews to the proper torque. I need to replace these parts due to the damage I found when I took the differential apart. I want to make sure I'm putting the correct parts back in when I reassemble the tractor, and I have the other style of right hub/gear already. In fact that's what's on the spare tranny from the Landlord I used the frame for on the 2012 restoration project. Now the 2012 was made in 1967 and I have no way of knowing if what I found is original to the tractor or not. The gear I took out looks like it was cut off another part like the black one and drilled for the pins. The conflict comes in when you go to the page for Rear Wheels and Axle(for all Mfg. Nos.). This page shows the adjusters on the hub and part M in the drawing which is the nylon bearing, PN 152041. Does anyone have the straight scoop on this? Here's a pic of both hubs and the cut off gear. If I should use the solid hub I may just clean and use the whole spare tranny for now and swap it out when I get the other one rebuilt.

[MikeES]

The 2012 would have originally come with the hub shown on the left (cast)with the plastic bushing and the adjustable "traction control" set screws. The hub on the right (steel) is from the later models starting, I believe, in 1971. You can use the hub on the right but you will need the longer solid axle to go with it, AND preferably the differential with the SPRINGS. If you use the steel hub with the original differential (without springs), you will not have the traction control feature. Good Luck! Mike S.

[HubbardRA]

Kirk, I am currently running the diff and axle from a 1977 AC716H in my 61 Wards that originally had the type that you show on the left. I also have the older rear in the AC temporarily. I have another of the new type to replace it. The two adjustment nuts, if left loose will give you a freeworking diff, and if you tighten them down you will have limited slip. I usually run them loose for mowing, and tighten them when I need the extra traction. Rod H.

[thedaddycat]

Thanks guys. Since I'm doing a restoration I'll put another like the original back in it. I have the longer axle from the 3310, but want the 2012 to be the way it came from the factory. I think the 725 has the traction control hub on it, and I'll be canabilizing it for parts for the two other 725s I have so taking the hub is no big deal. The deal I had been working out fell through and my kids want to build "Their" tractor out of the two 725s after I'm done with the 2012.

[ReedS]

Kirk I ran into similar problem when I blew the diff on my 700 new hub from simplicity similar to one on right. I was told that the gear and the hub were nla as individual parts as were some of the washers and inner gear. Luckily for you you have enough spares to piece one together. Happy tractoring. Reed S

[HubbardRA]

Kirk, Be sure that you get all of the spacer washers in the right places. If you don't, you could have a locked rear. If the gear that drives the left axle can move far enough toward the right hub it will mesh with both sets of spider gears and both wheels will be locked together and turn at the same speed. I have used this technique to lock rears for pulling. On the newer units the spacer is made on the gear. On the older ones it is a set of washers. Rod H.