HELP ! Ready to get the "forbidden" tool out !!

[EZDUZIT]

Hey ! The forbidden tool is the claw hammer !! I just cant get the drive belt cluth/brake right on my variable drive,I think I see what may be wrong ,do not laugh please . Does the turnbukle HAVE to be center ,like dead center befor starting all this ? I have tied everything I could find in here and have spent at least 3 hours trying to get the idiler on drive belt in the right spot,no luck. The rear axle DOES stop turning when tractor is in gear,but not in neuteral !!! I am lost. I have the manuals and the large frame manual,took all the advice in here ,just cant get it.Please answer I always appreciate the help I get here.Thank you all for being here. Pete. [Another friend of Bill"s]

[thedaddycat]

We're both in CT, if you need help you can bring it over and we'll play with it......

[Kent]

What other "symptoms" do you have? This is all from memory of adjustments performed well over a year ago... 1) I don't think it really matters that much where the turnbuckle was when you started -- all it does is control how high the belt rides in the pulleys -- i.e. the amount of speed variation. While the belt position is important, the position of the turnbuckle is not. 2) The brake drum will spin in neutral -- don't worry about it. The important part of the brake adjustment is in step 6 of the adjustment procedure. Tighten the brake adjustment until it starts making the belt creep with the clutch down, then back off until the creeping stops. 3) If you're trying to stop the gears from grinding, the key adjustment is the position of the belt guide/stop on the idler pulley (step 3). The stop/guide should be rotated far enough forward until it just barely "pinches" the belt when you have the clutch pushed in, yet the back of the belt doesn't rub on it when the clutch is out.... This belt/stop guide must grab the belt just enough (and no more) to stop it from moving when you clutch the tractor. Note that the distance mentioned in step 3 is for a new belt on a new tractor -- and wear will change it -- don't worry about the precise measurement. Get as close to that measurement as you can when you're doing it by the numbers. If the gears still wanted to grind a little when it's clutched, I always went back to this step after I've done steps 1 through 6, and used trial and error until I could get it to stop the belt from moving when you clutch the tractor. Hope this helps. If not, shout again, with more "symptoms." The foot-draggin' Clubhouse Custodian...

[hoskinsb]

Pete, I was having the same trouble with my B112. I tried everything to get the belt to stop turning when the clutch was depressed. Item #3 in Kent's response is critical. The belt guide attached to the idler wheel acts as a belt brake. Adjust this to the book specs and it should work perfectly. It did for me anyhow. Keep us posted Brent