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cranemech

Regulator & Rectifier AC 620

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cranemech
Evening All, Trying to bring my 620 up to speed. I'm interested in getting my charging system functioning. I have the Simplicity manuals but no engine manuals. This may sound ignorant:I,but where are the rgulator and rectifier located? I'm working through the schematic, but I am not familiar with the component location. Any help would be appteciated. Later, Chad

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schaefer72
hey on my powermax - if you are facing the tractor they are located just behind the engine attached to the left inside body of the tractor - just follow the wires back - they are hard to see and get at with the motor in - two seperate units on my machine - good luck

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JP
I agree, they're right about where your right toe is while sitting on the tractor. you'll notice two holes in the frame with a screw on each side of the hole. In the hole you'll see an aluminium (the heat sink & plate on the back of the Reg & rectifier). Getting to them is a 'choice of evils'. Trying to move the trans cooler out of the way or taking off the bottom pan. You may want to check the output of the alternator on the engine before you start foraging for the R & R. Let us know how you make out! JP

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powermax_paul
Easiest way is just to take off the bottom pan. I know it gets a little congested with a loader frame in the way, but I don't like to disturb the oil cooler any more than I have to. These are just little electronic modules 3/4" x 1-1/4" x 1/2" thick or so. Pretty easy to replace but not so easy to find. Maybe just one of the terminals got disconnected. Hopefully;)

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cranemech
Thanks Guys, I found the regulator and rectifier. Cleaned the terminals. Looks like they may have gotten hot, the plastic housing looks a little distorted. I have been trying to access the posts on checking the charging system, but have been unable to so far (Kents working on the problem). Trying to get the tractor and tiller ready for spring. My tractor is missing the bottom cover so I was able to use the loader to lift the front end to get my carcass under it. Thanks for the input, Chad

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Sandy_Lake_Imp
We stock both reg & rect. Each app $55. Call for help troubleshooting. Unfortunately the CCKB engine is somewhat prone to loosening of the magnets in the flywheel. I hope this is not the case with yours. See our sponsor ad on this site for contact info. We will be closed Monday Dec 2nd but back at it Tuesday. Bill

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JimS
Bill, Could you expand on your comment about loose flywheel magnets? Could this cause the regulator or rectifier to fail? What other damage can this cause? Is there an easy way to check the magnets or does the flywheel have to be pulled? Thanks. Jim

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JP
Jim, Don't mean to 'cut in', I have experienced this & Talked to the 'guy' (engineer)at the mfg co. His prognosis was a couple of things. 1 Flywheel bolt too tight can cause the flywheel to crack & spin off center. Thereby causing it to hit the stator. 2 Flywheel too loose. Same as above only 'faster'. 3 Stator coming loose & hitting the flywheel. 4 Crank bearings out of service limit, allowing the flywheel to stator clearance to change. His last idea was the fact of these units are getting old (? I resemble that remark!)That the metalurgy of the plates/magnets/retaining rings my be coming into play. The bonding of the plates to the magnets is weakening & allowing the plate to work it's way loose & it is hitting the stator causing failure. His explanation of the system was they did A LOT of engineering to squeeze 5 more amps out of this unit (compared to the CCK-A like on the 616 or 4040). The way they did that was to tighten up the tolerances in the magnets to coils tolerance & more of them. He also said for a time they offered a repair service for them but got too warranty prone. In other words, the owner would NOT always solve the reason for failure & repair that before just repairing the flywheel. So they put the repaired flywheel on, run the motor & the failure would reoccur, then the owner would want them to repair the flywheel again with out repairing the problem. LASTLY, He said the loss of one of the plates wouldn't affect performance, only by the % of plates (1 plate = 12%)IF the others were still intact. Hope this helps......... JP

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cranemech
Evening All, Thanks for the replies. I cleaned all terminals on regulator and rectifier, made sure they had a clean ground and fired it up. I now have positive movement in the ammeter, but no change in the battery voltage. The wiring on this unit has been "altered" so I'm in the process of cleaning it up. My manual shows a 20 amp C/B between ammeter and starter is this on all units? I'm unable to access the archived posts about troubleshooting the charging system, I guess I should have printed it when I had the chance. :I Thanks for all the help, Chad

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