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tractorfreak3

10 H.P. on a 62-63 700

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tractorfreak3
I am currently "restifying" (a term I learned in a chevy magizine) a 700. The engine on the tractor was a non orignal 8 h.p. .I had a good tight 65 10 horse lying around. so, i decided to beef the old girl up a tad. i'll be sandblasting, powdercoating and painting, but right now i getting the engine fit. i have had to modify the hood/grill support, a slight mod to the frame side by the oil filler. The starter generator will have to be moved down about a inch and one half to clear the hood. i will be posting pictures as soon as I do it correctly(thanks Kent) if anyone has done this before. any advice would be great. thanks Tim

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PatRarick
You eliminate the spacers under the engine, and you will need to cut a hole in the frame to allow clearance for the blower housing of the larger engine. All series later than the 725 came with this hole in the frame. Aside from what you have already done, the rest is no different than original. Pat

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ReedS
Another thing is to make sure your driveshaft angle is correct and that the bgb is in good shape. Did the same thing to my 700 but ended up blowing up a few parts like the bgb and a differential, sot that one is still on the back burner. Good luck and Happy tractoring ReedS

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tractorfreak3
If I eliminate the spacers under the engine,won't the front suspension mounting bolts still keep the engine pan from a flush fit to the frame? The ten horse mounting hole width is a half inch wider that the orignal pattern. There should be no driveshaft angle at all right? the BGB is tight, but my rear shaft seals need to be replaced. I have noticed the flex spacers on the drive shaft are two metal plates with a rubber ring betwen them. these are worn on the shaft side on both sides. it going to be fun!!

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KSever
Tim, If you look back through Kirks Restoration in progress You can see the hole in the frame and the bolt holes for the engine. I refer back to this alot in fact I just seen something again that helped me. [url]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10303&whichpage=2[/url]

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HubbardRA
I put a 10 Hp on one without a hole in the frame. All I did was reshape the corner of the fan shroud with a hammer and It would fit. I am now running a 14 Hp Kohler on it. Still no hole. I moved the engine and grille mountings forward, with longer spacers to hook-up the driveshaft. Been using this technique for years in tractor pulling. Haven't had a problem yet. Just remember to loosen the set screw on the BGB shaft yoke to let it float and prevent a pressure from being placed on the bearings and gear when the engine is bolted to the shaft. After everything is re-assembled, tighten the set screw.

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PatRarick
I re-powered a B-1 (725 equivilent) with a 10 horse Briggs. I made a cardboard template from a B-210 frame and cut the hole. There is a difference in crankshaft hieght between the model 19 (original 7 1/4 horse) engine, and the larger (23 through 32 cu. in.) engines, which is equal to the amount of the spacers. Eliminating the spacers would put the larger engine at the correct crankshaft height. The original engine mounting holes for the 19 is the same for the other engines. You state that your tractor was equipped with a non-original 8 hp engine. If this is the ALUMINUM engine, it did not use the original holes. The mounting pattern is different so new holes would have been drilled. The front suspension mounting bolts, unless altered somewhere along the line, will clear the engine oil pan. Pat

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powerking_one
Pat,Rod: Thanks for your input on these engine retro-fits; that's good info! On a somewhat related note, I'd like to change the oil filler setup on my 243431 10hp Briggs in the 2110 to the taller dipstick version used on the later style tractors (ie 3314V, 3310V, 3410S, etc). I think it will work with no interference? Could someone out there confirm the model/type number to check the B&S parts list against? Near as I can tell, I'd need PN's 690502 (pipe) and 69620 (dipstick). My thoughts for doing this would be less oil spillage when checking/filling if accidently slightly overfilled. Tom(PK)

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PatRarick
Tom, I'm not familiar with with the type of oil fill on the 3300 or 3400's. They may have had the filler in the block, right above were it is on the older style, on the oil pan. On my B-110 (fill pipe in the oil pan), I unscrewed the filler pipe from the oil pan and got a pipe nipple and coupling for what seemed like a convenient height. I used a pipe plug and drilled a 1/4" hole through the center. On the top of the plug, I drilled a 3/8" hole, about 1/4" deep, to fill with weld. I installed all at an oil change, so I could get the proper oil level. After all was installed, I put a 1/4" rod through the hole until it bottomed out in the oil pan. Pulled it back about 1/4", and cut it off even with the top of the plug. I welded the rod into the plug from the top, through the 3/8" hole, and took the grinder to it to finish it. Drilled a 1/4" hole through the square of the plug to insert a rod to use as a thumb grip for tightening and removing the plug. Tack welded that on each side of the plug. The engine holds 2 quarts, so I put 1 1/2 quarts in, and screwed the plug in snugly. Removed the plug and marked the "add oil" level. Added the final 1/2 quart, reinstalled the plug, removed it and marked the "full" level. I made the marks by clamping the rod end of the plug in a drill press and cutting a groove all the way around using a hacksaw blade. You could do the same thing with a nipple and a pipe cap, but I like the coupling as it gives a larger fill hole. Pat

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HubbardRA
Tom, I don't know exactly what engines they were on, but I have seen dipstick tubes that just screw into the original oil check hole. These will work with any that have just the plug. Unfortunately I don't know a part number. On second thought, I think that I recently traded off a vertical shaft engine that had one of these tubes. I don't think the guy is going to use the engine, in fact he asked if I wanted it back. If I can get it, I will send it to you. May take a few days.

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powerking_one
Pat, I could certainly construct something like you did. I was hoping to keep it simple by ordering the B&S parts if they'll work and not spend a lot of time building up the parts. Rod, I think you are refering to the plastic type dipstick assy (say ~~ 10" long or so?). That type really wouldn't work. My Briggs IPL for the motor shows a much shorter pipe thread type tube & dipstick , say about 3" or so. Hence if I had the B&S model and type numbers from a 3310/3410, maybe the PN's I think I need will jive. Regards, Tom(PK)

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thedaddycat
This is what is on mine, the pipe looks like an ordinary pipe nipple to me. The dipstick would be what to get from Briggs. This engine was short blocked in the mid 80's. 3310 V Mfg. No. 990653 Serial 001249 B&S Model 243431 Type 2580 01 Code 8506261

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Kent
I have one of those replacement engines in my Big Ten now. It was in my B-210, where I replaced it with a 16HP. Mine's an '89, Kirk, where it looks like yours is an '86. Came with a Magnetron and the longer intake that mounts the carb about 1-1/2" lower on the engine. That dipstick and longer fill tube really come in handy. When I put it in my Big Ten, I also put in a 2" nipple to drain the oil from. That's another nice feature. Looking at your pic I just realized that they must have moved the oil drain to the left side of the engine starting with the 3300 series -- I didn't realize that. The 3200 series has it right below the oil fill tube, coming out of a hole in the frame rail.

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