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IronPony

Kohler 12hp Picture

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PatRarick
Dan, You will notice that this engine does not have the provisions cast into the bottom of the block to mount the oil pan from your original engine. This is not to say that you can't use this engine, but it will take some modification plus a different oil pan if the original was not included with the block. Pat

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acjohn
To expand on what Pat said, there are no tabs that allow you to bolt the engine onto the oil pan. Your 700 series oil pan has 4 tapped holes that the block bolts into. The block you show has 4 tapped holes up inside (the bottom) that allow the oil pan to bolt up to the block. Cub, Ford (and others) used the style you have. It is possible (albeit) impractical to use that block and a cub oil pan. You would have to cut out the tractor frame to let the pan sit down below where your current engine mounts. There might be interference issues with the mower deck as well.

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HubbardRA
I had a Cub type Kohler K301 on my 61 Wards for a while. I inserted four pieces of threaded rod into the tapped mounting holes in the bottom of the oil pan. Locked them down with lock nuts. Then I cut four pieces of 1/2 inch pipe lonc enough to allow the bottom of the oil pan to clear the frame. I did cut a hole for the drain plug. Drilled new mounting holes and bolted it down. Worked like a champ. Had no problems. Just replaced it this summer with a 14 Hp that I stumbled on. Going to put the K301 on another machine.

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HubbardRA
John, Yes it did raise the crankshaft height about 1/2 inch. With the fiberglass flex plates, I have never seen any problem. If you want the engine lower, then you can cut a hole for the oil pan sump and use shorter spacers. I am currently running a 14 Hp Kohler that bolted to the original holes in the chassis. I raised it with spacer washers to allow the shroud to clear, since mine does not have a cutout in the frame. I haven't had any problems. In doing one of these swaps, you must loosen the setscrew on the BGB yoke during engine boltup to prevent any axial tension or compression on the flex plates and the BGB input shaft. Re-tighten the set screw after the driveshaft is completely bolted up. You will find from reading my posts on other subjects that I have done many things that do not fall within the standard way of setting things up. I am not saying that what I have done is better. All that I am saying is that it has worked for me. I admit that sometimes I do take calculated risks. My setups may someday fail, but they have been working for the past fifteen or so years. The final decision of "how" will always be up to you. Good Luck.

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thedaddycat
Rod, do you think the 1.5" thick coupling on the engine end and a flex plate on the BGB end of my 7114 could handle a 1/2" difference in crank height going from the Kohler 14 single to a Briggs 16 twin? I am posting a new question with more detail....

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IronPony
I continue to be in awe of the knowledge you guys have!! Thanks for the info and the time it takes for you to answer my dumb questions. I will find the right engine yet. Thanks again to each of you - Dan

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