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Paul3

B-10 Early: Busted Transmission?

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Paul3
Folks, Yesterday, I was plowing my driveway here in southeastern MA, when something odd happened to my 1964 B-10. It stopped moving. :( I had just pushed a load of heavy wet snow off the end of the driveway. I backed off to give it another push, and when I shifted back into 2nd and released the clutch, I went nowhere. I tried all the other gears, and got the same response. Nothing. No grinding, no odd sounds, no spraying oil. Now, I had not hit any curbs or made any real damaging moves with the tractor, so I was kinda at a loss... I thought perhaps that the belt had slipped off (hey, anything's possible), but everything was still on and spinning away. Naturally, this happened to me while I was half in the street at the bottom of the hill that is my driveway. I had to push the tractor all the way back to the shed. To add insult to injury, I then had to shovel the rest of the it! :) My questions to the forum: What the heck happened? Is it fixable? Is it affordable to fix? Is it possible for someone who has never seen the inside of any transmission (like me) to fix it? And if not, is there some shop (preferably in New England) that knows how to fix 38 year old A-C B-10's? Most in my area are great on John Deere's and Wheel Horses, but none seem to know anything about A-C or Simplicity. I really like this B-10, as my grandfather bought it new in 1964, and is still parked in the same spot every night. I use it year round to plow snow, plow the garden, for harrowing, for towing, and to sickle the long grass. I really need it, especially with all the snow we've been getting latley. Oh, BTW, I looked very carefully at the ground under the tractor and at the rear casing itself. I found no obvious damage, nor any parts laying around. It looks just like it always has, just without the whole "moving under it's own power" thing... It also drips oil out of the axle seal sometimes (at least I assume it's the axle seal). I do check the oil in the gearbox every year, and occasionally drain and replace it. BTW, this is my first post on the new forum (I was on the old format site a while back). I have to say I like what you've done with the place... :D Is there a tractor database still? And is it still possible to get those new seat cushions? Thanks in advance... Paul A. Cutler III ****************** "No matter where you go, there you are." - B. Bonzai ******************

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CleanBee
Hi Paul, When you say that everything was still spinning, do you mean the brake drum and large axle tube was also turning. If everything was, then you possibly have sheared roll pins between the right outer hub and drive gear on the outside of the differential. These can usualy be fixed just with six new roll pins unless it damaged the holes badly. There was just a post that these hubs and gears are still available new, (different design). Also, I think I saw some on eBay recently.

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thedaddycat
If you use the new style right hub, you need a longet axle shaft too, if I'm not mistaken. Take a good look through my 2012 restoration post, you'll see the tranny apart and going together. You may have broken your shifting stem(also in that post). To check that, remove the top plug from the tranny and get a small flashlight to look into the case. If the input shaft turns but the brake drum does not, shifting stem is likely the problem. If the brake drum turns but the axle tube does not, keys inside are suspect. If the axle tube turns but the wheels don't, check the differential.

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Rob-B
hello and welcome back, another though is there is a key way on the axle somewhere that can fall out of place or round off. this happenended to one of my daughters when we were doing garden tractor pulling. i too didn't know alot about the transmissions eith so to took it to my local agco/allis dealer, yankee sales and service, and he did the fix-it work very reaseonable. i looked up foxboro and your're only about an hour a way if you would like to consider them for your repairs. i very fortunite to have the local. but i also have that cub and horse dealer too. rob

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samson
Paul, Likely the shifting Pin, Same thing happened to me. I took the trans. out and over to an old allis dealer here in N.C. And They knew it was the pin. The pin is 3.25 BUT! I got all new bearings, Gasget etc.When done with labor and all 385.00 oww! But they don't make like those anymore. Mines a B12. Samson

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Stoneheartfarm
I pulled the axle apart on my B210 and replaced a couple of gears, gaskets and bearings. It really isn't too bad. I managed to find a dealer that would fax me an exploded diagram with part numbers. Then as I disassembled I kept a notepad handy and made drawings (showing a little more detail than the exploded diagrams) and put the removed parts in little baggies with part names, numbers and drawing numbers on them. A quick call to the dealer and he had the parts shipped directly to me express. It came apart easy, went together easy, had no parts left over (except the busted ones), and continues to work to this day. The worst part was taking it off the tractor, dragging it into the shop, and then dragging it back out and bolting it to the tractor. The actual disassembly took maybe 3 hours and less than that to put it back together. SHF

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Paul3
Folks, Thanks for the great advice. It looks like I'll be getting in contact with Yankee... BTW, I just rolled 'er out into the sun, and tried again. Yes, everything is turning but the wheels. Brake drum, large axle tube and PTO are all spinning away. But no wheel movement. CleanBee, thedaddycat, Rob-B, samson, Stoneheartfarm, & ka9bxg: thanks for the help. Not all appears lost, tho' I have to tell you that I thought it was a fatal blow to the ol' B-10. :) BTW, do you guys have any advice on what I should check while I'm elbow deep in transmission oil if I do it myself? Seals, gaskets, gears, what-have-you? Anything I should probably replace every 35 years? :D Thanks again... Paul A. Cutler III ****************** Ense petit placidam sub libertate quietem - Massachusetts State Motto ******************

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thedaddycat
It sounds like the problem is in the differental. You can do that without taking the tranny apart. Support the tractor on jack stands under the axle tube on both sides, pull the left side wheel and hub off, the right side will come off along with the asle shaft. You'll need to drive the inner half of the differential off of the axle tube, it's keyed on, too.

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Stoneheartfarm
If you do have to split the tranny, check it all. Automatically, I replace seals and bearings. The gears in these things are huge, but look them over and if you find a couple that appear well worn, change them out. The thing is 35 years old, there will probably be some worn parts. But, for a few bucks, you can probably get another 35 years out of it. As far as killing it, I'm not sure there is much that CAN kill one. I've torn apart the tranny, mower deck and engine. Put them all back together with new parts and the darn thing keeps on mowing. :D That digital camera idea is a good one. But make plenty of notes too. By doing so you are forced to notice little things, like which way is up on washers. (Or, you can just hit the left side of everything with a drop of nail polish. ;)) SHF

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MikeES
Paul, I agee with Kirk. Your problem is outside the transmission. you will only need to take the wheels off to fix it. I recommend that you do not go into the transmission. Other than the shifting fork there is nothing else to go wrong in them. I have been inside a half dozen transaxles and have never found a bad bearing, gear or key/keyway. The weakness is outside the transaxle in the tube axle and differential.

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Paul3
CleanBee wrote:
quote:
Why do you want to open the case?
I don't. :) At the time I wrote that "elbows deep" quote, I wasn't sure that I could get away without opening it. Now that I know it's most likely a differential problem (and that the differential is outside the case), I don't plan on opening the case after all. ;) Whew! Oh, and thanks for the link. I'll give it a look... One other question: Would it be better to get an old differential off a "parts" tractor (in the "for sale" forum here), or go with new parts from Yankee S&S? I figure new would be best, but if what happened to me is a freak thing, an old one might be just as good. Is it? Thanks... BLT wrote:
quote:
Down load a parts book from Simplicity if you can.
How do I do that? And where can I find it? Do they have a "download" area on their website? Or is it here? To everyone: Thanks for the help. It is much appreciated. Paul A. Cutler III ****************** "Be careful, you idiots! I said across her nose, not up it!" - D. Helmut ******************

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UCD
Paul There is two sites the first one you need a MFG# The second one use 100 thu 900 for the part#'s there are 9 sections this site has a writen discription of the manuals The b-10 has four mfg#'s that I know off. #2025041 & #2025042 prior to s/n 5001 #2025069 & #2025070 effective s/n 5001 #1 http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/techpubsearch.php#start #2 http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/v_techpubsearch.php

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