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dyehrd

Engine Upgrade

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dyehrd
I have a 3416H and was thinking of upgrading to a 20HP Briggs V-twin that i have in my garage. Am i contemplating something not even worthwhile or has anybody attempted this with good advise for me to follow. Thanks?

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PatRarick
Converting to the Vanguard V-twin isn't that tough. You need to make or purchase an engine adapter plate. I make my own, but Al Eden sells these adapter plates. http://www.repowereng.com/repowereng/adapter_plates.htm You will need to get a booster fan, spacer, and screen to adapt the flywheel to connect to the driveshaft. Not sure, but I believe the booster fan and screen from your original Briggs engine will fit, but you will still need the spacer. The toughest part, in my opinion, is the exhaust system. If you are not concerned about the muffler, there is a standard Briggs exhaust system, part #807752, which will put the muffler outside the hood, in the same approximate position as the 3200 and earlier series Simplicity. If you want the muffler in the original position, you will have to make your own exhaust system. That can be a problem with engine cooling, and you will also have to fabricate a heat shield for the exhaust system so that the exhaust heat is blown out the grill, rather than re-circulating through the cooling system. Briggs makes a variety of exhaust manifolds that you can use for the adaption. Since the 3416 was originally equipped with the Briggs engine, you have the magneto ignition system won't you won't have to adapt your wiring. You will need a new throttle cables, but I believe your original choke cable will fit. Depending on your engine, the oil filter may have to be relocated. The standard oil filter hangs at an almost vertical angle. This will not work without cutting a large piece out of the frame. Too large of a chunk, in my opinion, to retain the structural integrity of the frame. The optional oil filter bracket puts the filter in a horizontal position. Here, you can cut a radius out of the frame and hood. In that case, you will need to use the short oil filter. The third option is a remote filter mount. This is available from Briggs. You can then mount the filter almost in any convenient area, using hoses. The only other concern is the type of fuel system your Vanguard has. Most had the remote fuel tank, so a fuel pump was used. That will work fine. If your engine had the gravity feed (tank above the engine), you will need a valve cover with fitting for the fuel pump, a fuel pump bracket, and a fuel pump. You will have to change the carb float needle. An aluminum needle is used for the gravity feed and a brass needle for the pressure feed. In addition, you will need the air filter housing. Maybe this all sounds like a lot, but it isn't too bad. I have converted three B- series and two 914 AC's, and you will not be disappointed with the conversion. Pat

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MisterB
Has anyone tried such a repower on a 7014S (baron)? I believe this is a large frame tractor similar to the sovereign. The tractor is of `78 vintage and currently has a B&S single cylinder (model #326437) that has never been rebuilt. The engine smokes a little at startup and I plan to keep the tractor now that I have a few attachments for it. I was thinking maybe one of the twin cylinder B&S would have more power and be smoother as well. I'm just thinking about this, until you guys give me a reason not too anyway... Ken

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BLT
Mister B, if original engine is standard and the bore is good, why not rebuild it and stick in a chrome ring set. If resonably maintained it will go for ever. You can do that for less then $100. Then install an electronic igntion module and you can forget about tune ups. I put a Sten's unit in my 7010 12 years ago and it's like the Timex watch it still keeps ticking. One thing you have to do however is wire module thru pionts or engine will pop and backfire everytime you try to start it. There's really nothing wrong with those old one lungers. When in shape they are pulling fools. I'm not trying to talk you out of anything, but what you have is not too bad. The 32CID CI engine was probably one of Briggs' better engines. BLT

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dyehrd
thanks for the help fellas. I tried setting the engine in the frame before i got your message. A lot of cutting. I am going to go the adapter plate route. I think i will try to put the electronic module on my other tractor....a great idea i never thought of.....

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MikeES
BLT, how are chrome rings going to work on a cast iron engine. My guess is that it will never "seat in" and will use oil. But that is a guess, always willing to learn something new.

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PatRarick
dyehard, I didn't understand why you state that there will be a lot of cutting, then I read your reply to daddycat's post. I now assume you are speaking of the OPPOSED twin, rather than the V-twin. If this is the case, my reply above will not apply since the two engines are completely different. There is no adapter plate to convert to the opposed twin, as the engine would have to be lowered if you want to maintain the factory crankshaft height. Pat

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BLT
quote:
Originally posted by MikeES
BLT, how are chrome rings going to work on a cast iron engine. My guess is that it will never "seat in" and will use oil. But that is a guess, always willing to learn something new.
Mike, I have had excellent luck with chrome rings. Briggs repair manual says you don't even have to de-glaze the bore on all engines if the walls are just glazed. Oil consumption is zip. The oil control rings are wiper type rather then scraper type. I have a 12HP IC on a 728 that I repowered six or so years ago and engine has run very good with chrome rings. I also have a 10HP CI on my Landlord that I had to run the hone thru the bore because of some piston galling and put a chrome set it it two years ago and no oil has been consumed either. I also hace an 18HP opposed twin IC I rebuilt with chrome rings but haven't found a home for it yet. But when I ran on the test stand all indications told me that would be a good one also. BLT

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MikeES
Thanks BLT, You learn something new each day here at ST. Is the wiper type oil ring chromed also? I had just not seen chrome rings used on cast iron before, unless it was for hp gain and not for longevity (sport engines, tractor pulling, etc.)

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BLT
quote:
Originally posted by MikeES
Thanks BLT, You learn something new each day here at ST. Is the wiper type oil ring chromed also? I had just not seen chrome rings used on cast iron before, unless it was for hp gain and not for longevity (sport engines, tractor pulling, etc.)
Mike, the makeup is the expander, chrome flashed rail (ring), cast iron spacer and then the second chromed rail. I guess most people don't want to shell out almost twice the money for a ring set. Again reasonable maintence and that includes blowing out cylinder will get you three times the life to overhaul versus CI rings I think. I don't know if the chrome would stand up to pulling as even tho the pull is short in duration, it is a WOT condition and being that the piston gets zip for oil cooling on stock engines. I would think the chrome can take the heat.The book doesn't elude a HP gain. BLT

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