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Dadsy98

Wheel weights, stage two...

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Dadsy98
I got the pieces cut Friday. Did this at work where they have a metal saw. Just too much cutting for a sawzall. I'm using 3X3X1/2 angle iron because beggars can't be choosy. The flat top piece is 2X1/4". Janet went to visit her sister so I dismounted a rear wheel from the 7010 and brought it inside the house. Here are the pieces just sitting in place. The rim is for 23X8.5-12 tires.

Next a 25lb weight slipped on. I discovered that not all barbell weights are created equal. Two of mine are 11 !/2 diameter, 1" thick with a 1 3/16" diameter hole. The other two are 12" diameter and 1 1/4" thick with a 1 1/16" diameter hole. The smaller one fits nicer in the rim but there isn't enough clearance for the bolt head underneath. So, I used the larger one first.

Now I add the second slightly smaller weight, washer and nut. I'm anxious to get these pieces welded. Hopefully tomorrow.

My AC316 has 13X10.5 wheels so I checked the clock, yep, I think I have time to pull one off it and check the fit on those wheels as well. These rims are deeper than the 8.5 rims earlier.

The smaller weight fits nicely inside the rim and still leaves room for the bolt head.

And here it is topped off with second weight and nut.

I've made some changes to my original drawing so if you copied the first one replace it with this one. I'll go back and edit the first post as well.

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Dadsy98
Do you mean where the bracket mounts to the rim? I figure on using 1 1/2" long carriage bolts for that. The large 1" bolt is just welded to the top piece. That large bolt length isn't critical, just needs to protrude about an 1 1/4" past the last weight. Steve

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PatRarick
Steve, just a thought since the smaller weight fits in the rim better. How about drilling the cross bar and installing the bolt from the back side? If there is not enough clearance for the bolt head and the differential side axle, you could cut the head off and weld it flush. Pat

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Dadsy98
Pat, I considered drilling the hole for the bolt but, a 1 1/16" hole is a rugged job with a 1/2" drill motor not to mention the drill bit costs around $35.00 . remember, I'm cheap! Now, cutting the bolt head back was another option I considered. This would provide more clearance between the first weight and the bracket. That was why I dry fitted the pieces yesterday. I wanted to see if I had to cut the bolt head back. Not being a welder I'm not sure about the strength of a welded joint. I figure the bolt head provides a bit more surface area for strength. It's a work in progress ya know. Thanks for help! Steve

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mowerman1193
I was thinking of making a setup simular to that but instead of using a bolt I was going to use some pipe.I don't think you would really have to have any threads.I was going to use a locking collar type method.Probably could use a regular barbell locking collar then you would'nt need any tools to install/remove them.

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Dadsy98
Kevin, Good Idea! I don't know why I chose a bolt over a plain pipe or rod. A fellow at work mentioned that idea as well. I suppose you can use whatever you have handy at the time. I try to get all of my material at MD (Moocher's Depot) They don't stock everything but you can't beat their prices! :) Steve

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thedaddycat
Steve, you can start with a smaller hole and then use a round file to enlarge it. That's how I matched the holes in my support plates to the tranny side plates exactly.

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MPH
Steve, I'd bet your welder buddy could burn the hole with a torch for bolt and get it almost perfect. Welded on should be plenty strong in half in plate. Think it be good to have the bolt long enough to use a self locking nut also, hate it when things shake off. Sure looking like a slick deal..MPH

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Dutch
quote:
Originally posted by JohnInMI
Looks great! The only problem is that the winter is when I need to use my weights since I'm not outside exercising as much!! ;)
Buy extras........ With all the winter exercising, you'll need additional weight for the barbell come spring. You may even be able to leave them on next winter, and press the whole tractor. [img]http://www.richgaspari.com/pics/01_02_lat.jpg[/img]

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Dadsy98
Kris, True the 3" angle iron will cover the lug bolts. There is no interference with the bolt heads though. Since I started thinking this project out I wanted to keep the cutting down to a minimum. The 3" angle iron clears the differential stub nicely. The angle iron could be cutback leaving about an 1" for the nut and lock washer. This would clear the lugs. Also add the amounts of cuts from the angle iron to the top piece. Steve

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Dadsy98
Marty, I think my buddy the welder could do it. I am planning on going over to him today. Naturally We'll have a last minute engineering discussion. Because of what he charges me I'll probably use his suggestions... Steve

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Dadsy98
John, Dutch, My son got me two 25 lbs weights at a sporting goods store. $10.00 each. I'll have him go get a couple more. At that price you can have the best of both worlds ie: good traction and rock solid abs. :) Steve

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plowman
just an idea, i found my weights at a local salvage yard. they're gear blanks 2-5/8" thick 13" dia. solid steel. they sit snugly in the outside lip of the rim & even after drilling 4- 9/16" holes & countersing the holes so the nuts don't stick out past the weights, these baby's tip the scales at 96 pounds each. Only cost $15 for the pair. p.s. Don't try drilling w/o a press.

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John Lloyd
quote:
Originally posted by Dadsy98
Kevin, Good Idea! I don't know why I chose a bolt over a plain pipe or rod. A fellow at work mentioned that idea as well. I suppose you can use whatever you have handy at the time. I try to get all of my material at MD (Moocher's Depot) They don't stock everything but you can't beat their prices! :) Steve
I don't believe this would work. Drawing the weight(s) tightly to the wheel rim makes a ridged structure of the weight/wheel combination. Great design by the way. Just using a pipe/rod with collar would leave 25 to 75 pounds of weight whacking the tar out of the wheel, the weights would probably spin helping to loosen the lock collar, and something would surely break sooner than later. IMHO anyway. John

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KSever
Seems to me the factory weights are drawn tight to the wheel/rim through the four holes in the wheel. Which those holes are what was used to mount these weights. This is the finished project and looks good too, should work for years to come. [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/attach/dadsy98/P1060027s.jpg[/img]

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