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MPH

Good deal/bad deal??????

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MPH
After 2 days of trouble shooting my van, I found a broken diapham in the carcoal canister, finger full of black silicon fixed it, sooo I needed to test drive it good as it hasn't been able to run over 63 miles since it messed for my son last July. Sounded like just reason to go to Fairbanks, run the snot outta it, and pick-up my 725 tin work from the machine shop where he cleaned it in his razoo cleanning machine. Not the hot tank, but I can't thing of what he called it. Anyway, heres a few pics of what I brought home for a tab of 125 bucks. Used 45 dollars worth of brushes up and two days time when I did the B-112 so I don't feel took, been nice if he been under the about 100 est instead of over, but it is all paint and rust free, What you all think??? MPH

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MPH
Must addmit Kent, feel a little guilty for taking such an easy route, but I think I'll sleep ok tonight, after I prime it. The seat pan is really pitted but I guess thats just 40 year caritor{sp}. MPH

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mowerman1193
Wow!! that came out nice.Looks kinda like what I get with the sandblaster and 400lbs of sand and about 4-5 hrs.If you happen to think of what the operation was called let us know. A guy I used to work with used to have me paint his Harley's.He would have a local shop acid dip them and they would come out like that.He told me they would charge him about $15-$20 for it.I never thought that was to bad for all the parts he was having done.Your message reminded me of this,guess I will have to check into this.I hate sandblasting unless I have to. What method do you plan to use for painting?Spray gun or cans?

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MPH
I'll find out what the cleaning process is called, it was a new thing to me I never heard of, but that isn't saying its not a commonly used deal. Sanding, Kent, you tring to break me out in hives or what?? Using squirt cans, thats pretty fanncy for me. Used Extend rust treatment on the worst pitted parts, seat pan, fenders hood and anything that was under the battery. Planned on useing self etching primer over it and on the rest of the parts, but I MIGHT try some of the fill and sand primer on the seat pan and gear shift colum. here progress shots for the night, I wanted a coat on it quick before it could start rusting...MPH Whoops gotta go to the other reply method.

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MPH
Knew that back porch was good for more then holding the deep freeze.

cranked up the wood stove good, turnned up the Toyo stove, cracked the front door open about an inch and the fan sucked it out real. Wore a mask, but couldn't even smell paint in the house.

Washed all the parts in the bath tub with hot soapy water, rinsed with straight hot, about 180 deg., and set above woodstove vent to dry.

Think I'll go to bed, left for Fairbanks at 6 am. Yesterday...MPH

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arnoldir
The self etching primer is an absolute must for the first coat if you want to maximize the life of the new paint. then use the sanding primer filler on top of that. I personally have been using POR-15 as a base coat on blasted or etched parts, and it will self level and can fill most rust pitting with one coat. The trick is to put an automotive primer / filller on over it while it is still tacky or it will not stick. They also sell a special primer that will bind to the POR-15 once it's dry. The other option is to let the POR-15 dry completely and wire brush it or lightly sandblast it, but sanding by hand is like trying to sand a peice of glass. I've been screwing around with rusty junk for 20 years and have been using the POR-15 for at least 15 years. Just take their advice and don't get it on your hands as it really does take 5-7 days to wear off if, it dries on you. Have fun building your "like new" machine

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jrosenboom
Is the machine called "Wheel Abrather"? Instead of using air, it has a couple big wheels that fling tiny steel beads at the object as it rotates on a platform. You won't have the moisture issues and they last longer than sand.

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MPH
The razoo method Bud used to clean my parts is called 'Shot Peen'. The machine is about 5 ft long, stands about 3-4 foot high and has a cage inside that you load up, I think secure the parts in, close the lid and turn it on. The cage rotates. Told him of the pos comments I got and he said don't give out his address, cleaning tin isn't something he's really into doing, he's a machine shop. When I get to my landlord I may be outta luck on this easy shot I'm enjoying..Darnnnnnnnnnn.. MPH

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Leroy
Roger; Thank you for the Info on Por-15. I have not heard of them and thought only rustoleum was the only way to go. What primers do you use that stick to the por-15 while tacky? I didnt see info on those items. But a quick search on google does bring up alot of sellers for the por-15. Martin those parts look great. Leroy

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MikeES
Shot peening (steel shot) and bead blasting (glass beads) has been around for years. Sand blasting leaves the surface rough where shot peening and bead blasting leave a much smoother surface, it also tends to surface harden the material. There is also cryo-blasting (using dry ice) and soda-blasting (using baking soda).

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arnoldir
To Leroy, The manufacturer of POR-15 is Restomotive Labs in NJ. I've used various types of primer over tacky POR with good results. The best advice is to select a primer from the same manufacturer as the top coat you plan on using. Krylon, Rustoleum, Automotive sandable primer filler, it really only seems to matter that it gets put on while it can still get a hold on the POR. One big difference with POR-15 is that it dries faster as the humidity goes up, It is advisable to not use it on rainy days as it dries to fast to work with. Also I had a problem once using aluminum pie tins to hold it while I brushed it out, some kind of reaction took place and I wound up with bubbles in the finish and had to strip it all back off. Using plastic or paper cups has worked fine. They sell it in a six pack of small containers that really works great for little jobs, as this stuff gives really good coverage. Have fun.

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