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Mixing paint brands?????


MPH

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About a year ago I picked up about a dozen cans of ACE Machine and Implement, AC orange #17132, it to orange for my taste, compared to the cap. Am I asking for peeling problems if I use 2 coats of it then a couple of Dupli color chev orange/red engine paint??? Thanks...MPH
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You might be asking for trouble by doing that.It would depend on the base of the paint or the reducers that is used to make them sprayable.You could try it on something small first to see how it goes.If the test area dries ok without lifting or curling up you probably will be ok.
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Marty, If the can says you can use the product over sound, previously painted surfaces, there shouldn't be a problem. We all know they couldn't say it if it weren't true, right? :)
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Another thought, Marty. Make sure that the top coat of the previous color has dried GOOD and HARD before you switch to the other paint. I thought I had some good dry paint on some pieces (36 - 48 hours drying time) when I sprayed some clear coat -- of the same brand. It ruined the paint so bad with crazing, etc, that I had to go back down to bare metal and start all over. I'd been shooting a new color coat after 24 hours, so I thought I'd allowed lots of time -- NOT....
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After re reading your post I don't think you will be able to spray over the implement paint.I could be wrong as I am used to painting cars with auto type paints.I think the implement paint is probably a oil base paint and the engine paint is I belive enamel.It might work out ok it it is fully cured but I doubt you want to wait that long.Paint without a catylist(hardener) takes up to 90 days to cure.Actually we always tell customers not to wash with soap or wax for the first 90 days and that is with paint that has catylist. If you want to use the paint up one thing you might try is to paint the underside of the metal(places that you wont see)with the lighter color.
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Thanks for the feedback guys. Think If I do anything different I'll get some oranger engine paint of the same brand and give it a top coat of that. here's a pic of the hood and fender with two light coats, next to the fender is the point box cover which is old paint. Looks a bit redder, but the old paint is most likely 40 years older. Kent, figure if I get it painted now it'll have two week to cure before I clear coat it..MPH

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Marty, I have to agree with Kent and Kevin. The problem always seems to occur when I paint a different (brand or color) paint over another. With some of them, you really do have to let the original one dry, for a long time, sometimes months. Especially, in colder weather. You may get lucky and have no problem. But, like Kent said, sometimes, you've go to go back to the metal.
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Yea Art, thats why I asked all you 'Pro's". If something can go wrong with these tractors or attempts to fix them, someone here has 'been ther done that'. One of the great things about this site. Noticed this engine paint covers a whole lot better then any other squirt can I've used. Compared colors on the inside of the Landlord hood, the engine paint coverd the rust where as the implement paint did not. Wonder about clear coating over it now..need more coffee, gotta go to anchorage and get navy boy son...MPH
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Marty, did you use a hardener in the paint? IMO, clear coat is the worst offender, for mucking the paint job. I have ruined more paint jobs, trying to put that on. Even after months of drying time. Spray it on, and 5 minutes later, scrambled eggs. I don't even bother with it anymore. Like Kevin, suggests, it would probably be better, to try a little on the underside of a piece, let it set for a half hour, and see if it buckles. Hope, you have better luck.
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Marty- i'm just learning about paint & painting - what i've learned so far is that it's a lot more than, say spraying the engine black with the rustoleum can. it's really an art - there's a lot to learn. my suggestion would be to consult a paint pro and ask their opinion about mixing brands. ultimately though, you need to consider scratches if the shade aren't the same dave
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Thanks for all the advice guys. Picked up more of the Dupli-color yesterday in Anchorage at Fred Meyers, for a buck and a half less/can. They had hi temp clear coat rt next to it so I think I'll check it out under the fender or seat pan with all the warnings here. Thanks. Not sure if it makes it half baked enamel or not but sure has been working good to preheat the parts before I spray, warm to touch but not hot. Did the B112 that way and it seems to be holding up good. Advantage seems to be lack of runs, something must be helping me not get any..MPH
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