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roma3112

Adapting 3112 rear lift to New Sovereign

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roma3112
guys Being a little cheap and a little poor since the new tractor purchase:( i was wondering how much of the rear lift group if any i could use off my "parts 3112h" It looks to me like the (3rd point) sleve part is the same as one the new one may use. The dealer wants like $ 200.00 for the whole kit, i figure if i can reuse this sleve i should be saving a little. If anybody has done such a similar job, or has the mfg# to the rear hitch group ( so i can go to the tech pub website)and get a parts breakdown and installation manual it would be appreciated. Also with these newer cable/hydro lifts,id there any way to use a counterweight for front implaments, i have read NO because the front and rear hydrolicks lift in the same direction. I have also read (i think here) that all you have to do to remidy this is to somehow swap the lift cable to the other side of its pulley?? any info on this would also be much appreciated. thanks again john b

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Dutch
The "One Point Hitch" is 1600050. The "Rear Lift" is 1690404. TP-861-05 has all the attachments that will fit your new Sovereign. If your 3112 lift has the "extra" hole for the clevis rod, it can be used. If not, it can be modified. The cable can be relocated to the other hole to counterbalance. At least it can on my 1996 Sovereign. But since you're not using an "armstrong" lift, why would you need to counterbalance?

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roma3112
Thanks dutch More so i wanted the opposite action so i could use a johnny-box on both machines, i like the idea of the scarfer blades to loosten up the materyal. Also the lift portion of things on both the 3112h and the new machines would benefit (i asume) by the addition of a little extra weight. Dutch, on the older machines like my 3112h was the rear weight that slides into the sleve more for just dead rear (traction) weight or was it intended to assist they hydro lift or both?

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roma3112
Dutch i looked up and printed the installation instructions, (thanks) Do you know how to look up or get the manuals by the TP# I had no luck finding TP-861-05 that you listed for me.

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Dutch
quote:
Originally posted by roma3112
... i wanted the opposite action so i could use a johnny-box on both machines ...
You don't need a counterbalance with hydro lift, and I don't think you want the scarifiers down in the dirt when you're trying to transport a raised loaded bucket. Why not install dual separate lifts?
quote:
Originally posted by roma3112
... on the older machines like my 3112h was the rear weight that slides into the sleve more for just dead rear (traction) weight or was it intended to assist they hydro lift or both?
I don't really know the finer points of operating those quaint antiques. I'll let one of the FDT guys explain that.

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PatRarick
In my OPINION, the counterweights serve the dual purpose. When you lift the snowblower, you take weight off of the rear wheels, reducing traction. The rear counterweight puts weight on the back wheels, besides helping to lift the snowblower. With the tiller, raising that takes weight off the front wheels, sometimes making steering difficult. The front counterweight should help there. As to using the rear lift from the 3112, you can use the lift, but you may have to get the left (facing the rear) bushing. Not sure, but I believe the 3112 has the small (3/4") hole in the left side of the frame. At the very least, I would recommend that you purchase the lift cable. I have used a standard cable pulley and fabricated a guide for the pulley out of 14 ga. sheet metal. I have also used a standared 1/4" cable, double clamped with eyes on each end and a turnbuckle to connect to the rear lift. It works, but double clamping does interfere slightly at the pulley. If you use a turnbuckle, be sure to weld the eyes closed. Pat

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Kent
A counterweight increases the lifting capacity on the opposite end of the tractor. Simplicity sold front counterweights (I have one) to use when you were using a moldboard plow or tiller. They're especially helpful with manual lift. A Johnny Bucket will lift more with a counterweight on the back of the tractor, pure and simple.... Using two donuts plus 20lbs on the rear, my snowblower will stay raised, and not bleed down -- it's that well balanced.... I agree with Pat also that counterweights also are beneficial to maintain the weight balance. It's hard to steer a tractor in loose dirt with a tiller raised or a plow hanging off the back without a front one... If the implement is hanging off the front, you lose traction, also as Pat describes.... As far as what Dutch describes with the scarifiers in the ground when the front bucket is lifted, you can pin the scarifiers up so that they don't touch the ground in normal operation. If you have them pinned down, you can't raise the bucket ALL the way up without them going into the ground -- but there's a point in between where both the bucket and the scarifiers are not touching the ground. It's not an "ideal" solution, but it works well enough that you should be able to rip up an area, maneuvering as needed, then pin them back up and scoop and haul the dirt...

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roma3112
pat, you are 100% correct about the size difference of the holes on the left side of the top hitch point. I figured on needing a bushing of some sort for that. As far as the cables and the rest goes i was planning on using oem parts. I agree to as to the benefits of the counterbalanced weight on the rear, my real question now is>>> can you get the rear lift to go down when the front goes up and vice versa, it was my understanding that if you move the cable to the underside of the pulley you would acchieve this effect. Has anybody done this with the later model rear (cable type) lifts. And if so does it necessatate getting a longer lift cable, or some other modification? thanks again john b

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PatRarick
John, you can get the rear lift to work either way, depending on where you hook up your cable to the lift arm. When you install your lift cable to the arm, you will easily see the two hookup points. To work opposite of the front or center lift, you have hook the cable on the side with the guides on. I believe that is the front of the lift arm. You use the same cable, and there are no other modifications.

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roma3112
thanks pat i am hoping it will go together ok, in reality i am only saving the cost of the upper sleve part, but with blowing the budget on getting the new machine every penney counts. thanks again john

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