Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

AC917Hydro

Help with my AC917H

Recommended Posts

AC917Hydro
Hello all. I am a new member and was just blown away by the quality and quantity of information offered by this fine club. Thanks to the persons who have obviously spent innumerable hours building this site. I have recently acquired an AC917H:D which has received a Kohler Magnum 18HP twin cyl. engine transplant at some point in its life. It ran briefly this past summer but I figure the fuel pump needs some attention so I have yet to test out the 42" blower attachement:(. My real problem is locating the valve responsible for allowing the Hydro transmission to free-wheel?. Moving the non-running half ton tractor around a crowded garage is chore to say the least. Can anyone describe what exactly I should be looking for? Is the valve on the pump or the transmission itself? Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BLT
First of go here. http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/techpubsearch.php Then type in 1690519 and download operators manual. After that look at figure 9. It shows the latch. It's under the seat.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
AC917Hydro
Thanks BLT. I now have a manual:D Unfortunately, the free-wheel valve is exactly where I suspected it was. Mine appears to be seized. One of the two push buttons is down and will not come back up, and the other true to form, is up and will not go down. Suggestions? I read in another string that starting the engine and engaging the drive forward and backward (while on stands of course) should "free" the buttons. Sadly, I cannot start the beast at present. Is there another way? I have already sprayed them both with WD40. It probably doesn't help that it is 9 degrees F here^

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ROBBYDOB
I had just looked at the valve on mine today, and lubed it. Try to ever so slightly tap it down with something soft, like a small piece of wood, I know, akward area to get anything in there! Then if you can get it down, you can roll it easier. They will pop back when you do get it fired up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MikeES
Jeff, you can easily remove the valves and work the buttons and lube them. Make sure that you clean the area first (especially the recessed area around the hex head) so no dirt falls into the hydro unit. Because the gas tank is higher than the engine you can temporarily bypass the fuel pump to determine if it IS the fuel pump that is your problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
AC917Hydro
Thanks:) I only suspect the fuel pump because the motor fires, revs to speed and dies. If I spray fuel directly to the carb it will continue to run. After removing the fuel hose from the pump and dropping it below the tank, gas pours out. Fuel pump?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ROBBYDOB
could be carb adjustment? I try not to fool with 'em too much, but it sounds similar to a problem I was having with a snowthrower engine yesterday. But that doesn't have a fuel pump.Mike's right, you're better off removing the valves right off the pump, carefully. WD should do the job. If not maybe soak them in something. Good luck! Keep us updated.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
country
I two have had this question on my 917H. I found the free wheeling latch prior to this post, but I find nothing that says which position, up or down, is free wheeling. The manual only states to be in a certain position prior to starting. Which position is free wheeling, up or down?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
AC917Hydro
Country, I'm no expert seeing as though I just found the valves :) but for free wheeling they should be down. Mine are up and will not go down and therefore it is still in drive. As you've never used it before, perhaps try to lube it before you ram them down as I did. One of mine is stuck necessitating the removal of the valve to fix the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BLT
quote:
Originally posted by MikeES
Jeff, you can easily remove the valves and work the buttons and lube them. Make sure that you clean the area first (especially the recessed area around the hex head) so no dirt falls into the hydro unit. Because the gas tank is higher than the engine you can temporarily bypass the fuel pump to determine if it IS the fuel pump that is your problem.
Jeff, with gravity flow from fuel tank you should be able to run without fuel pump OK, flow will be ample. However make sure you have an inline fuel filter and a shutoff valve and use the valve religiously. If you don't shut off valve after ever running there is a possible chance that raw gas can push thru the carb, for one reason or another, mainly float setting, and find its way to the crankcase. I don't know if this has been a problem with Kohler engines, but with Briggs it has been somewhat notorious. On vertical piston engines you can see the problem real quick as the gas generally makes it to the floor before getting into piston area. On horizontal piston engines, opposed twins and V twin engines you can't see it as carb is equal to piston height or above piston height and the gas goes thru intake valve if conditons are right.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
country
BLT, you are right. The gentleman I received my 917H from didn't feel like spending the $40 or so to replace the fuel pump. He did exactly as you mentioned, installed an inline filter and shut-off valve. I speak from experience that you "MUST SHUT OFF THE VALVE WHEN THE TRACTOR IS NOT RUNNING. GAS WILL LEAK INTO THE CRANKCASE!" Sorry for the emphasis, but it will happen. I had to drain the oil and flush. Fortunately, I knew it had happened and never cranked over the engine with the gas in the oil, so no harm done.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.

×