Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
Dadsy98

Manual lift & Down Pressure?

Recommended Posts

Dadsy98
When I got home today I decided to play outside. It's been spitting snow for the last week or so. Not a lot on the ground. Temperature is in the low teens. I hadn't tried out the 16Hp AC312 with the blade yet. So this is the day. I fiddled with the lift rod some to see how much down pressure I could get. I have a total of 120lbs of rear wheel weight with chains, and an oddball hunk of steel of about 12 lbs as a counterweight. I was able to scrape off some frozen ruts in the drive and overall smoothed the parking area out. I need to finaggle the lift handle so it's easier to operate. With the blade down and locked it's awkward to reach out and raise the blade. As I said I adjusted the lift rod out leaving about a half inch of thread in the coupler. The lift quadrant doesn't have the notches where I'd like them either (thinking sawsall...) any thoughts on this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
ReedS
I know my landlord is mucho different from the 316, but if you look at the lift arm linkage you'll see that there is a spring arrangement at the plow end of the rod. Careful adjustment of the stop coller and such allows me to put the blaade in the down position and lock it with the lift lever so that the sring keeps pressure on the blade(unless there is a big drop off). Maybe you could fab something like this on the 316. [img]uploaded/reeds/dscnm0005.jpg[/img]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
quote:
The lift quadrant doesn't have the notches where I'd like them either (thinking sawsall...) any thoughts on this?
Hi Steve like your tractor pics....Ive thought the same thing about the settings not where Id like them...for example, this last fall I tried spreading a little gravel from a 12 ft. pile, I thought if i could just have one or two more notches to get the blade about 3 or 4 inches I could grab from the edge of the pile like I would with my D10 and then go back over it...I think a total "float" position would be nice as well for lumpy areas that get frozen down, and trails and such......let me know what you fabricate....I guess its time to look for a hydro or electric lift..... Doug

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dadsy98
Yes Reed, I'm planning to fab a lift rod for it. The piece I haven't got together yet is the welded right angle rod to a short tube (guide assembly). This will go between the front collar and spring. I bent and cut the half inch rod this afternoon after playing outside. I checked the price for that simple piece... Part#171679 $27.86. That piece must be gold plated for that price! I won't need anything that fancy. I'm using Dutch's DIY lift rod idea. I've already made one for the 7010. Cost of the homemade lift rod is under twenty dollars. a new lift rod assembly is around $70.00 . The lift handle is within easy reach now on the 7010. I thought using the original rod for the 316 would be better than it was. Oh well, Live & Learn :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dadsy98
Doug, I've been thinking a full float would be nice also. Maybe something simple to hold the button and actuator rod in the handle. The manual lift is okay for now, by spring my left profile will look like Popeye. :) Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dutch
quote:
Originally posted by Roy
The old B-1 lift quadrant & lever sure is nice.
....... and then Allis engineers ruined everything by designing multiple notches in the later tractors. No longer did the "B" owners have the fun of cutting notches with a sawsall so they had the ability to lock the blade at the needed height. Is there any truth that before the "B-1" there was a plain "B" with stone wheels and a critter in a cage instead of an engine?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dutch
quote:
Originally posted by CleanBee
And after the B-series, later designs used the cage metal for running boards. All the critters ran away and the operator was left stranded. Not even able to push himself along.
Is that a fact? No wonder Allis went out of business! Glad I only own Simplicity tractors. Never had to push myself along. What does it feel like to do that?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
Steve, I was thinking there must be some ratcheting device a guy could substitute???? theres something out there that would be an improvement, gotta be. Doug proud owner of both rbt and fdt....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dadsy98
It's not so bad Kenny, I do plan on getting some seats this year, I'll need three of them one each for the 312, 2110, and the 7010. When I do I'll think I died and went to heaven! It's a harsh realization when I consider what my toys cost in upkeep... (NOTE: I have both RBTs and a primitive dual powered FDT!) Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dadsy98
Doug, I had a thought on my way to work this morning, how about a solid quadrant ie; no holes or notches. I'd use an electric solenoid setup similar to the disk brake system. Press the button on the lever, the solenoid releases, place the lever anywhere on the quadrant and release the button, The solenoid actuates and grips the quadrant tightly in place. Might need a few more trips to work and back to polish this idea... Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Roy
Dutch, Obviously you are not aware of the convenient holes in the lift quadrant. Simply insert a clevis pin in the desired location(s) and you can limit the travel of implements where you like in either direction (up, down, or both). It is truely a shame you do not appreciate some of the finer points of the original "simple" design. 8o)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
Steve, seems like there would be a lot of pressure side to side on the solenoid under load?? it would have to grip pretty hard?...My sov. has the right hand lift, stock, I for my use I was thinking of a lock a and realease down on the pivot itself, (by my foot). Keep it up Steve youll hammer something out....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dutch
quote:
Originally posted by Roy
Obviously you are not aware of the convenient holes in the lift quadrant. Simply insert a clevis pin in the desired location(s) and you can limit the travel of implements where you like in either direction (up, down, or both).
Yes, I was aware of that "feature". I watched some old codger cursing and swearing because he got off his tractor for the umpteenth time changing the clevis, then it dropped and he lost it. Nice "feature"...... Sounds like more fun than I could stand.
quote:
Originally posted by Roy
It is truely a shame you do not appreciate some of the finer points of the original "simple" design.
Guess I just ain't got no class. But, I do have a one of those "swiss cheese" quadrants and lever. Since you have the acquired taste to appreciate that exquisitely "simple" design, I'll swap you for the hydro-lift off your Sovereign.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Dutch
quote:
Originally posted by DougM
I was thinking there must be some ratcheting device a guy could substitute???? theres something out there that would be an improvement, gotta be.
Sounds like you guys are looking for a ratcheting parking brake lever from an old truck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
acjohn
The solenoid idea will never work (sorry). It would have to be either spring applied/electrically released or the opposite. Either way, the solenoid will never have enough strength to overcome enough spring force to make it work. John.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
thedaddycat
FDT style quadrant has one notch towards the front, and holes for the pin to act as a stop. The linkage is on the rear side of the handle.

The electric lift equipped 3310 has a pointer instead of the handle, but clearly shows the multiple notches and only a single row of holes for a stop pin in the quadrant..

The 7114 linkage engages on the front side of the handle for the manual lift.

The hydraulic lift has the short lift shaft that is flush with the frame.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Roy
Dutch, I appreciate your offer but would prefer, and be happier, if you would send me a hydraulic lift control valve that has the "float" positions in addition to the up/down positions on my Sovereign. Being that I am aging I do appreciate the luxury of having power steering and hydraulic lift. The hydraulics without float, and the manual lift quadrants with the notches that did away with float, do not seem like much of an improvement to me. Cheers,

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×