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Why is it that I can get my carb on my little 616 all tuned up, running nice and then have to do it all over again like every third time i use it? If this continues im welding knobs to my set screws!! Any Ideas? Dougm
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Thanks Herb, ill try both suggestions. Sounds logical as weather, and gas quality dont seem to be the culprit. The guy I bought it from claimed "rebuilt carb"...well see. Doug
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Doug, If thats the tractor I picked up for you I forgot to tell you I siliconed the screws on the carb for you. This way they wouldn't stick :D
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quote:
Originally posted by DougM
Why is it that I can get my carb on my little 616 all tuned up, running nice and then have to do it all over again like every third time i use it? If this continues im welding knobs to my set screws!! Any Ideas? Dougm
Doug do you have the correct stack up of parts like the brass washer on the idle screw pushing against the 'o' ring ect?
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Bob, Good question, not sure, its 9 degrees, 20 mph winds, I just ate half a pizza. Will look over. I have taken jets out, cleaned everything with cleaner. Im thinking a carb kits in order..... thanks for the replies to all. Happy snowblowing. DougM
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Doug, How clean is your gas tank? Do you have a good, clean filter in between it and the carb? I had to pull the jet on my Big Ten this morning get crap out of it, and it has both a screen and a filter... Kent
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Kent, Evidently youve forgotten about the walnut shell guy? Thats right, walnut shells and cutting oil on a paint shaking machine at work...I have cleaned the inside of that thing out till it glistened, rinsed several times, brand new filter as well as gas lines, bowls been off cleaned like a swiss watch...???????? A carb kit isnt going to break the bank, but let me ask this.. Just exactly how much and what wear do you look for as far as the jets go??? should they appear slightly worn, shot, before replacing? thanks again. Doug (I VOTED)M
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IMO, you shouldn't see a mark on a jet -- or if you do, it needs replacing. If they've been tightened down too far, too frequently, they'll get a slight ridge on them where they meet the seat. Once that happens, it's time for a new one...
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Doug, if there is a groove around the needle, you have an area where there is no adjustment. You go from lean to rich in that area with nothing in between. You can fiddle with it and get it close, but the setting doesn't last. The example on the left shows a good needle. You can see how the needle would gradually reduce the flow as it is screwed in (up). The example on the right shows a grooved needle. You can see the area where adjustment would be very touchy as far as reducing or increasing flow.

Pat
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UPDATE, you guys like updates right? Warm enough to mess with yo today....Did the spring thing, as Herb mentioned, marked the screw locations, didnt moved, drove it down to the county road, did a few donuts, popped the clutch, impressed the chicks, still running well...we will see next time i run it.... Doug

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If your jet has a small groove around it, you can wrap a piece of fine sand paper around the area, hold it snubly with your fingers and turn the jet till the groove is burnished away. I have done this many times. Guess I'm just a cheapskate, but I have never bought a new set of jets. I do the same thing for float needle valves. It works for both the brass and neoprene tips. Just thought I would let you guys know what works for me.
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Day 2, Runs perfect, just like yesterday............
quote:
impressed the chicks
Ok there were no chicks but i did try to pull a wheelie.
quote:
Now I understand why my friends laugh at me driving my little Sable since Judy wrecked my Town Car.
Wife says i look tibetan in this pic, she laughs as well...go ahead I care not. Humility hurts only the vain. Rod, your advice could be seen as dangerous and misleading as i could prick my finger and bleed to death..."he was found dead in a pool of blood with a carbjet in his finger lying next to his true love, the 616".... yet, ill try it anyhow, what the heck, theyre shot anyhow. thanks to all
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