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Full Floating Blade on an RBT


Dutch

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Played around with my RH lift lever some more. Drilled a hole in the lever itself so I could remove the arm I added. Bad move. The extra 2 inches from the pivot made the attachments seem twice as heavy to lift. Still tack welded because I’m still tinkering. Anyway, I did something for you FDT guys who like the notchless quadrant instead of the modern spring loaded lift rod. I cut a “J” slot in the lift lever tube and installed a roll pin in the button. If you don’t want the pawl to engage the notches, press the button down and engage the roll pin. [img]/club2/attach/dutch/2holes.jpg[/img] [img]/club2/attach/dutch/button-float-seq.jpg[/img]
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Now THATS an Idea!!!!!!! Good move Herb. You bet i want a full floating blade, for guys with lumpy areas that are froze down (trail to barn, outhouse) this would be just the ticket.
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Thats the one thing I never like about the FDT's was the notchless quadrant and soild lift rod for the rear lift. Using a tiller in harder soils makes the tiller bounce which makes the lift lever swing back and forth like a big club.....
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Dutch, The AC 410 parts tractor that I have, has a hole in the same location from the factory. Looks like AC actually thought of this one first. I like this better than the hole that I put through the "u"-shaped latch at the bottom. It is easier to engage. I think I'm gonna make a spring loaded, push button, one hand design. I know how to make one, just trying to get it a little simpler before fabricating. None of my rods will rotate. Guess they are all just old and frozen, like me.
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quote:
Originally posted by HubbardRA
None of my rods will rotate.
The rod doesn't rotate, just the button. If you have a press fit button (some do), remove it, thread the rod, and install a threaded button.
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