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rear weight,how much?


G.Kiebler

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How much weight is everyone useing on their landlords to help offset the front load of the snowblower? I have (2) 50# wheel weights,would this be enough?I have 2-link chains on already.
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Don't know about the Landlord, but I balanced the three belt blower on the Putt Putt with a factory counter weight and two collar weights. It gave fair balance so I didn't mess with trying to move the collars out any, though I could have gone out about 2"(maybe a shade less) farther out on the counter weight with both collars.
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You'll get pretty good traction with that much weight and chains, though you'll have to lift the snowblower by "muscle force" unless you use a counterweight. I'm running 45 lb Bolens wheel weights, loaded tires (6 gallons of WW fluid each) plus the counterweights. I'm using two donuts on the counterweight, plus 20lb -- and it's just a bit too much to balance it -- hard to tell with hydraulic lift, but it will hold the snowblower up and not bleed down.... [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/club2//attach/Kent/Dcp00805.jpg[/img]
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Kent,That's a nice looking rig you have there. I'm likeing the idea of a counter weight to help hoist the blower in the air.I have a 6"dia x 8" long,solid chunk of steel,must be about 35# at least.I may tinker with this. Correct me if I'm wrong;If I had 35# of weight at 1 Ft. it would equal 35 Ft #'s. So at 2 ft away with 35#'s would equal 70 Ft#'s. I'm not saying I would have a weight hanging 2Ft from the rear of my tractor though.
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Gary, Your calculations are correct -- but you measure from the center of the pivot shaft on the top lift tube of the tractor. So, mine is sticking out well past two feet from that point... you can go a bit more on the weight, I think, if you have something heavy to clamp on it. If you can find a set of barbells at a flea market, yard sale, etc, that's the cheapest weights, and most have a 1" bar that will slide right in the top lift tube, and then you could put as much weight on as you wanted -- where you want it on the bar. Thanks! I've gotten a lot of hard work out of this Big Ten that I pieced together from parts tractors -- I just need to get on the stick and get the HB-216 repainted, and back together...
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No hydraulics here, I use two doughnut weights on the rear lift group. It almost allows the 36" blower to float and makes the manual lift that much easier.

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Just my two cents. I'd go for the wheel weights and/or liguid in the tires first. The rear weight and collars make the lifting easier and do allow the blower to float. In heavy or wet snow I've had it float over the snow when I don't want it to. My driveway curves up at a pretty sharp angle so I can't lock it down or use one of the spring loaded lift bars. Try your idea about the weight as needed so you can get the best of both worlds.
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you will kick your self later for putting fluid in your wheels cus it will rust your rims. thats the worst thing about old tractors when ya restore them the rims are almost always rusted out because of the flued. and steel weight is better when ya get a flat tire so ya dont have to have a fluid pump if ya fix your own tires.
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wheel weights and loaded tires are not load bearing on axel tubes and bearings. I have had my tires loaded with cloride for 30 years before I had a problem with a leak and if I had installed tubes they would not have leaked. A tire loaded correctly with the wheel completely covered with fluid will not rust out.
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I have chains & a homemade weight strapped to the back of my tractor. If I have any more need for traction, I stand on the running boards, lift & place my hind-end on the top of the seatback. This usually shifts enuf weight to get me moving again. Of course, this method requires running boards.;) Tacey
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Stoneheartfarm
quote:
Originally posted by Tacey
Of course, this method requires running boards.;)
That's the problem with running boards. It's hard to put your feet down and push. Steve
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