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14 HP Kohler ?'s Good advise taken Thank You


KSever

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I have a 14 HP cast iron Kohler that I am going to try and get running after sitting for a long period of time (years). Tonight after work I figured I would start this project of reviving the dead. The cylinder and the valves are free along with good compression. I started to drain the oil from this engine and found about half of the oil is water. I haven't cranked this over with the starter at all, just by hand to feel the compression so I would think that the water hasn't gotten into anything it could hurt. I Hope. I have drained all I could drain out of this oil sump I even jacked the tractor up on it's side to drain all I could. Question is: Would YOU fill this engine back up with oil and see if it will start and run ok or Would YOU take this engine out of the tractor and take it apart to clean the inside of this oil sump pan out? I am still debating what I should do. Or is there a way to flush this engine out to be sure there isn't anymore water in it ? Thanks in Advance, Kris
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I agree with Steve. Better safe than sorry. Water may not have gotten anywhere else, but you don't know if or how much rust is in the pan. A few small, hard rust pieces and you can kiss the rod good-bye. Pat
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Steve and Pat, I took your great advise and did the right thing on this one. Found the insides of the engine to be in great shape, but for the oil pan it was full of gunk (very thick gunk). As you can see. Thanks again for the great advise.

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One thing to remember about the kohler engine is that they have a compresion release. If you turn it over by hand, you will not get an accurate compression reading. Just my two cents worth. Fred Wood
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I recall the Kohler K series ran with a slight vacuum in the case, provided the oil breather is working right. worn rings or cylinder would show up as no vacuum or a slight positive pressure. Steve
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you're right on the vacume . hook up a water manometeto the dipstick opening . it should run with a vacume , any psi & its worn rings. doing a cylinder leak down test can tell you alot also with out running it but you need to take the cam cover off & bump the compression release out of the way. also from over the years checking compression on them usually 85-95 psi is a pretty standard reading even with the compression release
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also while you are in there you may want to pop the rod cap off to see how the bearing surface is. or at least check the torque on the rod bolts
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