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dual wheel adapters part 2


MikeDAmico

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Today i picked up my b-10 with the dual wheel adapters that werent on it when i got.They are the same style adapters that you see under options in the b-series attachments part of simpletractors,my first problem was on one side of the adapter someone added or i dont know if this is what the came with was studs,i thought that you used lugs for the outside rims instead of the studs that are on it.Then the big problem came ont he right side hub there the locking differential i think its called? and it has the two lug nuts screwed into that and i dont see wht purpose that serves.But the adapters wont make it to the bob because of the hub being like that but it works good on the left side is there something im missing?i really want to use the wheel adapters but im lost on this one...mike
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Mike, The two lug nuts you refer to are the controlled traction bolts for the differential.(do not torque over 25 ft. lbs.) The studs you speak of should be adaptor studs made like no. 3 in the picture below. These replace the lug bolts in the original wheels and then the wheel adaptors are mounted on them. This will make the wheel adaptors clear the controlled traction bolts. Download instructions on the dual wheel adaptors at: http://www.simplicitytechpubs.com/6767PRINT/PDF_files/TP_200_3602_00_SK_S.pdf

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The two "lug nuts" for the traction control can be replaced with socket head set screws for clearance. The installation instructions for the loaders on the B-series tractors call for these screws to be replaced for clearance also. I went to my local True Value hardware store and they got them in for me. My local Simplicity dealer couldn't help without a part number. GregB
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Thanks to both of the gregs who replyed on my post, the duals are now mounted on my b-10 and look great,i will try to post pictures of it with the dirt plow and snow blower..mike
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Thanks guys! I have been thinking for the longest time of making dual wheel hub adapters (they don't seem too hard to make) but I had the question of the "lug nuts" on the diferential (how they worked/what they did and how to get them out of the way to make room for the hub) Simple trACtors comes through for me again!!!
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I have a pair of those dual wheel adapters all I need is the adapter stud(# 3 in picture)part # 154373(need 10).The dual wheel adapter looks like it will fit a 6x12 tire. Karl
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If you guys can't locate the studs, the local hardware stores in this area sell fine thread 7/16 RH bolts in various lengths. I use them to stud my wheels and use lug nuts like a car, instead of the screw in bolts to hold the wheel on. If you want to use a wider tire, just bolt the adapter to the inner wheel, then buy longer bolts for the outer wheel, and make backside spacers from 1/2 inch pipe.
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Just remember, unlike riding lawn mowers that simply slide a wheel over an axle, garden tractors are engineered to mount a wheel on a wide axle flange and are held with hardened countersunk nuts or bolts. There is a reason. Mounting dual wheels using longer bolts and spacers will look neat, and may even support extreme loads if those loads are considered when doing modifications. The only reason I mention this is because I have seen the tragic results that sometimes happen when aftermarket, universal fit "trick" wheels are carelessly designed or improperly installed on automobiles.
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Dutch, I hope you didn't think my advice of the spacers was a "Jackleg" response. I know the spacers will work on a 5 lug wheel if the spacers are not more than about three inches long, are cut square,are all exactly the same length, and are attached with grade 5 or grade 8 bolts (a more solid spacer is needed on a four lug setup). It is hard to find 7/16 fine thread bolts in less than a grade 5 configuration. I was also assuming that the inner flange of the adapter was attached to the wheel in the manner specified by Simplicity and all bolts are properly torqued. If a square head bolt is used, it must be screwed through the tapped hole from the back side of the axle flange or adapter flange and then an automobile lug nut (from a 60s-70s Chevy) should be used to hold on the wheel. I have used similar setups on homemade pulling tractors with motorcycle engines producing as much as 85 horsepower. The only time I ever lost a wheel was when I twisted an axle shaft off. Please don't misunderstand these comments. I too have had problems with those "unilug" automobile wheels. I was lucky. I caught the problem before the wheel came off the car.
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Rod, My post was not meant for you. It was just a reminder for all. We both know that many people take "short cuts" or assume some modification "should work" or is "good enough." The reason I used "trick" wheels as an example is because I have seen many youngsters buy used unilug wheels. The proper washers and lug nuts have been lost, so regular flat washers and nuts are used. Once the "trick" wheels are improperly installed, some believe they now own a racing machine.
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