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Hi-Low or Vari-Drive


wantedinct

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Which is better? i have a landlord 2210 i've never seen a vari-drive on one but it looks like i've got all the mounting holes for the lever,is it possible to run both? And how hard are they to install? Thanks, Eric
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I have neither on any of my machines, but based on what I have been reading on this forum: The hi-low is better for doing heavy work, and the vari-drive is better for pricise speed control. Hi-low for tilling, plowing snow, bottom plow, cultivator, front-end loader,etc. Vari-drive for mowing, aerating, spreading fertilizer, etc. Different set-ups for different applications. There may be a possibility that both could be set up on the same transaxle, but they will not hook up that way without significant modification of the original designs.
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I have a B-210 with variable speed drive. What it does is you have your 3 speeds/gears on your transmision shifter. Once in a gear you have your variable speed range within that gear. You can only shift the variable speed shifter when the tractor is moving. Then you have the option of 7 different speed ranges within each gear and if you multiply that times 3 gears you have a total of 21 ranges of speed. I have never used a high low but would think that the variable speed has more to offer ? I too am curious about the hi low. I hope this helps, Al
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Pretty sure all models with the variable speed have a longer wheel base, to allow for the variable pulleies and control hardware. Too put both on I think would be a tough one, I've only seen pics of the hi-low, but it don't seem like you could put the variable pulley on that unit. Seen a variable set for sale in the classified a couple days ago. Were they the same unit for all models of tractors. The one on by b-112 is so worn all the holes are egg shaped and I know doesn't work like it should because of all the freeplay...MPH
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I had a b212 that had variable speed on it. the variable parts were worn prety bad so I put a pully on it to drive it straght. then I found a hi low so I put that on it. then I found enough variable speed parts to put that back on. so I took the hi lo off . I prefer the variable speed since you can shift that while moving. hi lo you need to stop & clutch. the varable speed definatly has its advantages. but you do need the longer wheel base. they only make that variable speed belt in one size & its pretty pricy
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Dave-Saratoga
of course, you could own 2 tractors and have a hi-lo unit on one and a variable speed unit on the other. If you really want to have the right tool for the right job, you could own a 3rd with the hydrostatic tranny. i've got a b-110 that i'll be adding the vari-speed to this spring and i've got a b-10 with the hi-lo. working on the hydro, but just boght a new holland 30 horse compact diesel with a hydro - guess that'll have to do for for a while
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Thanks for the input guys, but now i'm curious, my frame appears to be all set up for it,and dash has 3 holes with bolts that hold nothing,were would they get the length from?
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thedaddycat
I have been kicking the idea around of how to put the Hi-Lo onto the 3310V, and it will be a trick. If I can get it done and it works, I will have 42 forward speeds and 14 reverse.... How practical it would be is another question, though. I think the hydro would be the better choice because of the mechanical complexity of the Hi-Lo variable combo.
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I have a hydro. It doesn't like to go at a speed much slower than 1st on a three speed unless it is under heavy load like pulling a heavy trailer. Under load you can make it barely move. Maybe it is just mine but the variability at the very low speeds without pulling a load just isn't there. Do any of the others out there act that way?
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Rod, Is yours a Vickers or Sunstrand? My Sunstrand will creep at less than 1 foot per minute with or without a load if I want.
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Rod my 17GTH-L has the Sunstrand hydro and like Dutch's it will crawl with or without a load. My 3012V is variable and it does great with the tiller,plow,cultivators etc. The belt is pricey but they seem to last for years. My nickles worth. Larry
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Dutch, Larry, Mine is a Sunstrand. If the engine is at idle and I play with the lever and get it barely out of the neutral gate it will also creep, but there is little control between that and the speed I mentioned earlier. When mowing with the engine at high RPM it either wants to stop or go at a an equivalent 1st gear speed. The slightest movement on the lever takes it from one to the other. If I hook it to my tandem axle trailer to park it or move it around the yard, I can set the speed anywhere I like and it responds well. Maybe I have a worn valve body. Other than this lack of very low speed control, I love the hydro. I'd much rather mow with it than one of the fixed geat tractors. I like the smoothness and feel when you move the stick. Also the top speed is faster than the 3 speed tractor which is handy when hauling or traveling between jobs. It works great in what I would call the normal operating range of the other tractors. Maybe I was just expecting more low speed control than can be built into a single range with as much speed variability as the tractors have.
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The high-low only reduces speed of a standard 3-speed -- it doesn't speed it up. It slows it down to about 1/3 of the normal 3-speed. 3rd low range is only slightly faster than 1st high (normal) range. In 1st gear, low range, you could almost crawl as fast as the tractor will go at full throttle.... It's designed for plowing, snowblowing and tilling, without having to switch to either the 9" or 10" speed reduction transmission pulleys that were also offered for those applications. The varidrive will go faster in reverse with the speed control lever at its fastest setting... I've often had to ride the clutch on a varidrive in real deep snow (we got both a 24" and a 28" storm when I was running one) or when tilling -- you certainly wouldn't need to do that with a high/low. I only use low/low when dealing with DEEP snow, otherwise I'm in 1st/high range or 2nd/low range... and sometimes even in 3rd/low range if there's only 4" - 6".... Also, be aware that the dash/frame tunnel cover is different on a 3-speed and a varidrive. The rear fenders/seat deck are positioned differently due to the 4" longer wheelbase, so the "cross-rail" that the front of the seat pan rests on is in a different location. The high/low would be the easiest conversion to make -- but also the hardest to find...
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Sounds to me like the hi-low would be my best bet,im just looking to slow it down some when the snow thrower is on, i had to really ride the clutch when we had that big storm, other then that,i would like to go a little faster in reverse, but i can live with out that, would a broadmoor hi-low unit work on a landlord,or are the rearends completely different?
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The Broadmoor unit won't work... at least without MAJOR rework and fabrication. The linkage is totally different and the size of the input shaft on the tranny is different.
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The reason some of you guys have a problem getting your hydros to creep win not under a lood could be do to the amount of washers you have in the spring on you hydro lever. the less washers the more you will be able to fether it but also when under a hevy lood it will slow down more.
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Guys, toss the vari. and the hi-lo out and go with the Hydro. These little trannies are great, pull like a dickins and as far as being week, as long as the clutch belt doesn't slip, the wheels won't stop. As far as the creeping goes, on the older Vickers units like I have,repair the slack in the shifter linkage due to wear and readjust. The only problem I've found is I'm afraid I'm going to snatch the diff. out by gouging on the shifter to quikly.
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Stoneheartfarm
I like my vari drive for mowing. I can lock into second and then just use the vari to slow down or speed up. Long straight away, 7 on the vari, curve coming up, pull the vari lever back to 1. 7 on 2nd is faster than 1 on 3rd. 1 on 2nd is slower than 7 on 1st. But who's on first. Steve
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Dave-Saratoga
Eric the hi-lo unit is DEFINATELY easier to install - just put it on in place of the the original pulley. the modifications for going to vari-speed are many - all the linkages, the cowl assembly, shafts in the tranny & bgb, just to name a few things. can be done though - probably easiest if you have a donor tractor to get all the necessary parts. dave
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