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Electrical Problem


bigdaddy

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I have a 1973 3416S Simplicity Tractor. I have all the wiring hooked up correctly as far as the schematic shows save the POS cable. When I try to conect the POS cable to the Battery, the engine trys to turn over....with out the key! Does anyone know whats going on? steve
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disconnect the wire from the start switch to the starter solenoid, if it still tries to turn over you will have a bad solenoid, if it dosn't turn over, trace back and find out why there is power to the solenoid trip wire(bad start switch). Don ps. Whenever you work on an electrical system, disconnect the chassis side(negitive on 12v) first and reconnect it last, it greatly reduces the accidental sparks, which are not a good thing that close to the gas tank! Don
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I have isolated everything. There is a wire from the Regulator Gen post(on my reg it has an L on it...I don't know what that stands for..LOAD?) anyway, it goes from there to the A side of the Starter Generator. It is hot.....
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Sorry, I didn't realize it was a sterter/generator setup, I havn't worked on those before. You may find what you need on this page[url]http://www.simpletractors.com/Main/service.htm[/url]. Don
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According to the wiring diagrams that I have, The "A or Gen" terminal of the voltage regulator connects to the "A" terminal of the generator. The "F" terminal of the voltage regulator connects to the other (field) terminal of the generator. The "Bat" terminal of the voltage regulator connects to the ignition switch, and the "L" terminal of the voltage regulator is the power terminal that feeds the switches for the lights, pto, electric lift, etc. The "L" terminal does not connect to the generator at all. If you have one of the large three pole voltage regulators, there is usually a terminal underneath. You may have confused the "L" terminal with that one. The three pole regulators have four terminals while the two pole regulators only have three (no"L").
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Hi, Try disconnecting the wire from the A terminal of the regulator. If the problem goes away, the regulator cutout contacts are welded together. My 2 cents worth and its free, value accordingly. Al Eden
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Well I did what Rod suggested and everything just cranks over real fine, with a ouple of pops too.... but it just won't start..If my battery is 5yrs old would this be problem? steve
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If your engine is turning the engine adequately, it is not your battery. I would first check the condition of the points and condenser. Leave the cover off the points while you have someone else crank the engine over. Look for a good consistent spark. It should be visible even in daylight if you are getting enough spark. If you are not, at least clean the points with a small file or sandpaper. They need to be bright and shiny, with both contacts parallel and touching uniformly across. Best idea is to completely replace both points and condenser, because the condenser can cause an erratic spark or none at all. It is a good sign that you at least have enough spart to fire a couple of times. If the problem still persists after replacing the points and condenser, then check fuel flow to carb. It is a good idea to always check ignition first.
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I've got good spark to the plug(it has spark) I put one of those silver computer chip jobs to bypass the points and condenser. Have I screwed up? Are those change over modules OK?
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Bigdaddy, I can't help you with that type of ignition. I prefer non-magneto, battery fed ignitions with points and condenser, such as the Kohler engines use. Yhis is so that I do not have to pull the engine and flywheel if there is a problem. I know the majority of the members prefer to eliminate points and condenser and go to the all electronic ignitions. Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to say my way is best, just my preference. Someone else will have to help you if your ignition is the problem. You could try giving it a shot of starting fluid. If it starts on starting fluid, this will tell you if it is ignition or a fuel delivery problem.
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Ron, I like The idea of using a regular coil and points. I am used to servicing my chev 6 set(55 1st series). I also saw under the 'do it yourself' section the use of this system too. Do you have your own method of conversion? steve
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Steve, It is very easy. Mount the coil in a convenient location. Connect the spark plug wire to the plug. Connect the wire from the points to the negative side. This is the only wire that connects to the points, on the same screw that the condenser connects to. Only other problem is that the ignition switch is a type that grounds the coil when off (type used with magneto). You will need to replace the ignition switch with one from a Kohler powered tractor such as my 1977 AC 716H. You can then use the wiring diagram from a 716H to wire the tractor. Maybe Maynard has a copy of this wiring diagram also. If you need me to, I can draw the diagram Monday when I get to work, because I don't have the right software on this computer at home to draw it in a postable format. Let me know. You could also use your existing switch in either of two ways. One would be to install a push button switch for the starter, since the existing switch does not power the accessories terminal while in the start position, so there is no way to get power to the coil. The second way is to replace the existing starter solenoid with one of the older Ford solenoids that had the extra small terminal on it that was used to directly bypass the ballast resistor when starting. A wire from this terminal to the coil will energise the ignition when starting and the wire from the accessories terminal will energize the ignition in the run position. I have probably totally confused you and everyone else by this time. Let me know if you want me to draw up these wiring diagrams, and I'll do it next week.
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Rod, That would be GREAT! What kind of points and condenser would I use.....kohler? I really like the idea of having an external coil, it makes sense to me. steve
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If you're converting a Briggs to a coil-based ignition, this link might be helpful. http://www.simpletractors.com/do_it/magneto_to_coil.htm
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Bigdaddy, Use your original points and condenser. They fit the engine. If you want, you can use the Kohler condenser, since it attaches to the coil, and is not mounted down with the points.
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Steve, Does your solenoid have the second small connection on it. It needs to have the two larbe conections for the battery and the starter and two small connectors, one is from the ignition to energize the solenoid, and the other can be used to energize the ignition during starting.
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Steve, All you have to do is run a wire from the second small connection to the positive side of the coil. This one shouldn't be connected to anything currently if this relay is being used on the tractor. This will energize the coil when starting. A wire from the accessories terminal of the ignition switch will energize the coil when running. Both wires hook to the same terminal on the coil. If you use this setup, you need to unhook the points from the magneto when you hook them to the negative side of the coil, and remove the magneto grounding wire from the ignition switch. On my 243431 engine, I removed the whole magneto. It wasn't working anyway.
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Rod, Now all I got to do is buy some parts. As far as removing the Magneto, I'll do that when I need to remove the flywheel some day. I have a stock ignition switch(new), keyed. I understand the accessory wire(hot when key is ON), but I don't know if I can identify ground wire from the Mag to ignition switch, I'm not trying to make this hard its just that I am such a rookie at this. steve
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Steve, If you are going to leave the mag on the motor, you need to ground this wire to the motor so that the mag is not trying to make sparks when the engine is running. Which ignition switch is it that you have? One for the mag setup?
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