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Motor advice


DonNewberry

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DonNewberry
The motor in my b112 finally needs repair or replacing. The tip off was the vast cloud of blue smoke. When I got the old motor out it had a gap between the piston and the wall big enough to put a pencil lead in. How did it keep running? Anyway, they gave me an estimate for rebuilding it of $350. That sounds like a good price for a new motor! If anyone out there has replaced a motor in a b112 what did you use and how well did it work out? Thanks Don PS, taking the opportunity to sand blast and re-paint!Javascript:insertsmilie('^') Approve ^
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$350 is a good price. You should rebore the engine (usually worn out of round) new piston, rings, grind the valves. The rest of the work (regrind crank, etc.) is dependent on condition. I would rebuild the B&S 12hp.
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DonNewberry
It was for grinding the valves, a new piston, and re-boring. The mechanic was shaking his head mournfully and saying, "maybe a little more." Hence, the thought that a new motor might be a good way to go. The motor is a 400321 Briggs and Stratton. Searching their site does not identify a replacement. In fact, their searc insists it does not exist.
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Don, are you sure you posted the correct engine number? The breakdown of the number you give shows a 40 cubic inch engine, design series "0". The 3 means a horizontal shaft engine with a flow jet carb. It also means a pneumatic (air controlled) governer. The 2 means a flange mounted sleeve type main bearing on the output end of the crankshaft. The 1 means a rope starter. Briggs never built such an engine. The 40 cubic inch engine was a twin cylinder. It only came with a mechanical governer. It came with either a recoil or electric start, but never with a rope starter. The correct number for your engine should be 300431. If you can get it rebuilt as you stated for $350 to $450, that would be the way to go. Pat
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DonNewberry
No I did not post the number right. It is the one you describe. I'm looking for a mechnaic in the nearby city of Grand Forks who won't give me the "little bit more quote." I've asked around and that "little bit" is often twice the price. Don
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To my knowledge there are no new replacememnts available anymore. The last available Briggs Cast Iron(or cast iron Sleeve IC engine of the same block design) replacement was a 16HP and was made in the early 90's I believe. I have run across several of those IC electronic ignition engines in older simplicitys that have very little time on them because something else went wrong with the tractor shortly after they replaced the engine. Owners got disgusted and parked them rather than spend more money on them. Gives you an idea of where to look for one anyhow.
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ChrisACB-112
If you just want the tractor back up, I agree with Sam. When my B112 blew it's engine (that's another story for another time), I found a 16hp IC motor with tractor + mowing deck for $300. The motor's the wrong color, but it pretty much dropped in. Think I had to move the muffler out a little to clear something by using a piece of pipe and the throttle/choke cables had to be changed. Works great. BTW - doing your own rebuild may not be too expensive either. Undersized rods and oversized pistons are still available as is pretty much everything else. Just be sure the governor isn't also messed-up - I seem to remember something about them getting trashed when the pieces start to fly around inside. Probably someone here will know more details. Good luck.
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DonNewberry
There is a Briggs and Stratton Cast Iron engine available for $800 from the small engine warehouse. It's a 16 horse power engine. My current one is a 12 horse. I gave them a call and they told me I would have to cut a new key slot and re-drill for the oil pan to fit, but other than this it should be ready to go. I called two other places, who gave me estimates of $400 to $500 plus to re-build my current engine. I think I'm going to try the "more power" route. If I'm going to spend (for me) a big chunk of money I want to have something i can use for the next 40 years. I may be rationalizing, but i got the B112 for free! I've got a push blade, a tiller, and a snow thrower for it. If I tried to replace all that I'd be spending thousands. Also, I'm rather attatched to Alice even though she's an ornrey old cuss with no seat. Did I mention that last year I gleefully drove circles around my neighbor's John Deer that's three years old and has broken down about once a month? I wound up cutting his grass, but it sure was fun. Don
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To make those newer 16hp I/C 's fit in the B-series all you have to do is take out the oil dipstick and pipe, insert a flush pipe plug and change the oil pan over to the pan that was on the original 10 or 12 hp that was in the tractor to begin with. Thats what I did with the HB-116 that UCD now owns.
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DonNewberry
Excellent! I've got the pan soaking in a parts cleaner. I just ordered the new motor. Soon I'll be able to push my neighbor's John Deere around the yard. When we pulled the head off the old motor and he saw how wore it was he started swearing. In his opinion it should not have been able to run at all. I'd probably better not anger him to much though, he owns the garage i'm working in. Don
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I cant Understand why they said you would have to cut a new keyslot and redrill the tractor frame for the pan to fit.?. All the 16hp I/C's I've seen would bolt right in if not for the dipstick sticking out. What model number was the engine they were quoting you? Sam
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DonNewberry
It's a briggs & Stratton model 326431. The shaft facing out of the tractor is described as threaded. This is the shaft that connects to the snow thrower, which uses a key for the pulley. Of course, if i can get a threaded pulley one problem will be solved. The man I spoke to at the small engine warehouse told me the oil pan would not fit the original holes for bolting it in. However, it was listed as wotking with the ac tractors. Did I mention that when we took the old motor out it was only held in by two bolts? That may be why it shook so much.Javascript:insertsmilie('8D') Cool 8D
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Thats the right model number. Never seen a threaded shaft on one, or a different pan bolt hole arrangement. Ought to be interesting. Your original pan should bolt right on. They make a allen wrench type flush pipe plug that is perfect to use to replace the dipstick pipe . You can also use a regular pipe plug, but I found I had to saw off about half the height of the square wrench stud on top for the tractor tin to clear.
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  • 1 month later...
DonNewberry
The motor is here and I got it in. There is no dipstick pipe. Just a plastic plug. I took the oil pan off and flipped it. It was the same as the old one. IT all fits. Now a question of wiring.
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