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SmilinSam

720/9020 wiring problems

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SmilinSam
Got to looking at the wiring while working on the 720 and saw that we had a "Butcher " job done on it some time in the past. What I am having trouble with is that both sides of the light siwtch are grounded to the tractor frame. Following the schematice Power comes off the ignition tab on the switch and to the oil light then to the hot light then to the switch. The diagram also shows the opposite side of the hot light going to the ground tab on the switch and then to the temperature switch which also grounds when closed. How are the lights supposed to work when the hot side is also grounded to the frame? ( this is how it was working when I had the CCKB in it) What am I missing here?

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SmilinSam
Thanks, thats the same diagrams I am working with right now. I guess the question should be - Does the Keyswitch ground tab only connect to ground when the key is off or is that tab grounded also when it is in the on position? At least if its an original switch?

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rokon2813
I'm not an expert on these fine little machines but being a mechanic in other fields, its been my experience the ground from the keyswitch is only in the off position. This grounds your coil, condenser or regulator, whichever is necessary on a particular machine to stop sending power so the engine shuts off.

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SmilinSam
Maynard, you're all right in my book. I found the problem. They replaced the original keyswitch with a switch used for a Kohler engine(S,B,I,R,A tabs) No ground tab. All the wires to the switch were cut, spliced and re-arranged. I now have all the wires identified labeled and ready to reassemble as per the schematic. All I need is a switch now. Any idea if Stens has a compatible one?

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UCD
Sam The switch I have is a six pin switch, The pins are not marked. It is a three position switch milled key with off on start positions. Name on switch is Indak it is in a Gravely parts bag part# 018272. It is not a Indak part# as far as i can tell The part# you need is Simplicity part# 171491 as far as I cand find it is the same switch for all of the power max series The switch is still available. My dealer has one and it is $25.50 list. Indak They make Switches for Simplicity Indak was founded in 1947 in the Chicago suburb of Evanston, Illinois. In 1956 Indak moved to its present location in Northbrook, Illinois. Outdoor Power / Lawn & Garden Sales 1915 Techny Road Northbrook, Illinois 60062 Phone: 1-847-272-0343 FAX: 1-847-272-0697 Stocking Distributor: Koch Sales Company, Inc. P.O. Box 528 Muenster, Texas 76252 Phone: 1-940-759-2297 or 2263 Fax: 1-940-759-4759 [url]http://www.indak.com/products/outdoor_power/lawn_garden.htm[/url]

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SmilinSam
MAynard, Got more Questions. I started the Honda up tonight and we dont get any charge on the amp gauge. Take a look at figure#70 above. Note the Keyswitch. I have the wiring connections installed as per the diagram.The wire coming from the regulator goes to the accesory tab and on to the clutch. However the switch when in the on position energizes the Battery tab, Inition tab and the Ground tab. but not the accesory tab. None of the tabs are grounded to the frame in any key position. The accesory tab is basically a insulated post having nothing to do with Key function. If I'm reading things right I need to move the wires from the acc tab in the diagram over to the Ground tab and vise versa. This way the regulator would be able to put juice back to the battery through that tab which when energized would go on back to the battery . Right?? And the wire from the hot light to the temp switch should be on the insulated tab right? Just looks to me like the two lower tab functions on my swith are reversed drawings.

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UCD
Sam Do you have a diagram of your key switch. Did you check the wires between the front and rear clutch switch. 16ga white Alt/Reg. to connector 16ga black connector to Accessories pin on switch 16ga pink/black Accessories pin on switch to front clutch switch. To 16ga light green to rear clutch switch. White wire back to starter. Completes the chargeing circuit With the key on the Accessories pin should be hot with the key on it should put the amp meter into a series circuit with the charging circuit. You could all so have a bad switch

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SmilinSam
The accesory tab is NOT hot when switch is on. The other tab across from it that the HOT light is connected to IS hot when switch is on, and I don't think it is supposed to be. IS IT ??? I am assuming I just have the wires on the wrong tabs. So if I move the wire from the charging circuit to the tab that is HOT when on, that should complete the circuit back to the battery. The switch is set up just like the one in figure 70. Except that the lower two tabs are apparently on opposite sides on my switch as opposed to the diagram. This is the correct part number switch, but only the S and B terminals are marked. All I'm basically asking is that the wire from the regulator and charginng system has to be connected to a terminal on the switch that is HOT when the switch is on so as to complete the circuit back to the battery. Right?

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SmilinSam
Well, it didn't burn . Runs pretty good. No leaks yet. Put the hood on last night after trimming it to fit over the engine. I found a good place for the battery! Under the seat. Got to raise the seat 4" to do it. Test fit seemed comfortable to sit, so with any luck I'll be done tonight and have pictures this weekend....

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UCD
Thats great Sam. You have long legs so it should fit you good. Don't think the boys will be able to reach the pedals. At least not setting on the seat. Will be nice to see it finished. It was looking good when we were there.

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