will a 32" tiller work on a 7000 series?

[srwven]

I have a chance to grab a 32" tiller from someone with an old 2010. Would this work on a 7014? It doesn't match up in the x-ref, does that mean it won't work?

[Kent]

It will physically mount, and will work as long long as you also get the old-style tiller drive. However, be aware that it was designed to turn at 150 RPM (at 3,000 engine RPM) being driven by a small 3" pulley on the PTO side of the bevel gear box. Since your cone clutch is quite a bit bigger than 3" -- 4" ?? -- you'll have to use a very low throttle setting or you'll be driving the tiller way too fast.... Or, you could try swapping out a pulley somewhere to change the gear ratio -- but -- I don't think you can use a much larger pulley on the tiller without it hitting the housing. If you'll look, the newer tillers have a very large drive pulley on them, in comparison to the old ones...

[thedaddycat]

This kind of situation was why I was thinking of putting an old Broadmore Hi-Lo drive on the rear PTO, so you could reduce PTO speed with the shift of the lever. I never got to working it out, but the idea is there for anyone to try........

[BLT]

quote:

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Originally posted by Kent
It will physically mount, and will work as long long as you also get the old-style tiller drive. However, be aware that it was designed to turn at 150 RPM (at 3,000 engine RPM) being driven by a small 3" pulley on the PTO side of the bevel gear box. Since your cone clutch is quite a bit bigger than 3" -- 4" ?? -- you'll have to use a very low throttle setting or you'll be driving the tiller way too fast.... Or, you could try swapping out a pulley somewhere to change the gear ratio -- but -- I don't think you can use a much larger pulley on the tiller without it hitting the housing. If you'll look, the newer tillers have a very large drive pulley on them, in comparison to the old ones...

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You'll also need the belt guard and tensioning rod from the old set up so you can run the tiller with the cone clutch. The old tiller PTO lever has to be always engaged and the olny way you can do it is have all those parts or make your own.

[srwven]

Thanks for the help guys. Sounds like it is more hassle than it is worth. Guess I will just keep waiting to find the right one.[V]

[Kent]

Bob, why would he need the belt guard if it must always be engaged, other than a mounting point for the tensioning rod? There would be no need to clutch it with anything other than the cone clutch. He could even run it without an idler, if he could get the correct belt length, since the distance is so short. If not, a spring to put load on the idler, mounted somehow, would probably suffice. [img]http://simpletractors.com/images/tiller_ops1/figure_6_small.jpg[/img] BTW, I made a tensioning rod to mount my B-10 vintage tiller on my longer B-210 --- before I got the Big Ten ready to till with... I simply bent a piece of rod stock, drilled a hole for the cotter pin, and cut it to length... It adjusts like the old center PTO rods did, with a spring, collar, and set screw. If you can get a good deal on the tiller, it still might be worth it....

[BLT]

Kent nothing more then to keep first belt constanly engaged. Thats what my thought was.

[lboy1971]

My brother used his old curved shield tiller on an Allis 712 he had. He just used a spring to keep the idler pulley under tension. It worked good for him.